Mito 443 Project
Discussion
I'd like to ride it soonish but there's still lots of bits that add up, not necessarily difficult things, but £££ consuming things so I'm just doing what I can month on month.
Get fairings on and dash soon then get it on the dyno, throw some paint at it and it'll be rideable but I'm not sure how much of a t
t it'll be to insure and might take time getting an agreed value etc.
Then there's getting the V5 updated, bound to be a ball ache.
Get fairings on and dash soon then get it on the dyno, throw some paint at it and it'll be rideable but I'm not sure how much of a t
t it'll be to insure and might take time getting an agreed value etc. Then there's getting the V5 updated, bound to be a ball ache.
New ally rad fitted, my number 1 pet hate of the bike now sorted 
the one before looked like a bit of a lash up close and to be fair it was just to get it going. Was a mito rad turned upside down. This is much better.
Got dash, need to make a mount.
Ordered TZ fairings and got these genuine TZ nose cone brackets hopefully I can do something with them.
Also ordered some metzeler m7rr's, gonna pull the wheels off for powder coating soon
the one before looked like a bit of a lash up close and to be fair it was just to get it going. Was a mito rad turned upside down. This is much better.
Got dash, need to make a mount.
Ordered TZ fairings and got these genuine TZ nose cone brackets hopefully I can do something with them.
Also ordered some metzeler m7rr's, gonna pull the wheels off for powder coating soon
Few bits done today, made a mount this morning and installed the dash
http://youtu.be/sXevFb9kNKM
Everything working nice, wired the tacho into the Ignitech CDI as its the most accurate. Got the oil level light wired into the rg500 oil tank level switch.
Fitted a fan to the rad and wired that up,
Got a new set of M7RRs to go on when the wheels are back from powder coating along with titanium disc and pinch bolts and all new wheel bearings. Slowly getting there.
http://youtu.be/sXevFb9kNKM
Everything working nice, wired the tacho into the Ignitech CDI as its the most accurate. Got the oil level light wired into the rg500 oil tank level switch.
Fitted a fan to the rad and wired that up,
Got a new set of M7RRs to go on when the wheels are back from powder coating along with titanium disc and pinch bolts and all new wheel bearings. Slowly getting there.
sradmarty said:
Dash looks great, neat and tidy, not overly fussy.
What's the redline going to be? Had it in my head it would be a bit more than 9-10k.
The redline is 10k so clocks are pretty well spot on. Have set the rev limiter for 10250, got to remember it's a twin so fairly big pistons & capacity per cylinder compared to something like an rg/rd500. With the longer stroke it's not advisable to go over 10500. What's the redline going to be? Had it in my head it would be a bit more than 9-10k.
These clocks only come in 10k or 20k. If there was something like a 12k version id have got that but it's the best of the choice. At least it'll wipe the clock
A lad I know through another forum has a mate who just had his 443 LC dyno'd at 97hp at the wheel @ 10020 and that's an Athena setup which is generally regarded as inferior to the cheetah set up I have... But anything around that would be nice, I think his is quite heavily ported etc.. I have got a bit of reliability in mind so haven't built it to be a hand grenade! Lots of variables too, I think he's running 38mm carbs too, but totally different pipes etc.
Edited by Yazza54 on Sunday 12th July 12:59
Yazza54 said:
sradmarty said:
Dash looks great, neat and tidy, not overly fussy.
What's the redline going to be? Had it in my head it would be a bit more than 9-10k.
The redline is 10k so clocks are pretty well spot on. Have set the rev limiter for 10250, got to remember it's a twin so fairly big pistons & capacity per cylinder compared to something like an rg/rd500. With the longer stroke it's not advisable to go over 10500. What's the redline going to be? Had it in my head it would be a bit more than 9-10k.
These clocks only come in 10k or 20k. If there was something like a 12k version id have got that but it's the best of the choice. At least it'll wipe the clock
A lad I know through another forum has a mate who just had his 443 LC dyno'd at 97hp at the wheel @ 10020 and that's an Athena setup which is generally regarded as inferior to the cheetah set up I have... But anything around that would be nice, I think his is quite heavily ported etc.. I have got a bit of reliability in mind so haven't built it to be a hand grenade! Lots of variables too, I think he's running 38mm carbs too, but totally different pipes etc.
Is that longer stroke comparatively? You expecting it to pull quite well before the powerband?
Sorry if these are daft questions,! loving this and can't wait to see it finished.
Edited by Yazza54 on Sunday 12th July 12:59
Longer stroke than standard I mean, it's 7mm longer, so 61mm. The fella I bought all the bits through is running a 421 which is 4mm longer stroke (58mm) and 68mm bore. He's revving his up to 11250 but doing crank swaps once a year! But his literally just gets wrung to death on track all the time with a little road use thrown in.
It should pull reasonably well but it's definitely going to have a massive kick when it comes into the powerband. The fella who runs the 421 described it as being nice and easy to ride below the powerband, bloody powerful but manageable kept on the boil.... But if you ride hard through the powerband that's where all manner of st goes down haha.
It should pull reasonably well but it's definitely going to have a massive kick when it comes into the powerband. The fella who runs the 421 described it as being nice and easy to ride below the powerband, bloody powerful but manageable kept on the boil.... But if you ride hard through the powerband that's where all manner of s
t goes down haha. Yazza54 said:
Longer stroke than standard I mean, it's 7mm longer, so 61mm. The fella I bought all the bits through is running a 421 which is 4mm longer stroke (58mm) and 68mm bore. He's revving his up to 11250 but doing crank swaps once a year! But his literally just gets wrung to death on track all the time with a little road use thrown in.
It should pull reasonably well but it's definitely going to have a massive kick when it comes into the powerband. The fella who runs the 421 described it as being nice and easy to ride below the powerband, bloody powerful but manageable kept on the boil.... But if you ride hard through the powerband that's where all manner of st goes down haha.
I'm imagining my old RGV 250 with twice the power, Should keep you on your toes!It should pull reasonably well but it's definitely going to have a massive kick when it comes into the powerband. The fella who runs the 421 described it as being nice and easy to ride below the powerband, bloody powerful but manageable kept on the boil.... But if you ride hard through the powerband that's where all manner of s
t goes down haha. Yazza54 said:
Longer stroke than standard I mean, it's 7mm longer, so 61mm. The fella I bought all the bits through is running a 421 which is 4mm longer stroke (58mm) and 68mm bore. He's revving his up to 11250 but doing crank swaps once a year! But his literally just gets wrung to death on track all the time with a little road use thrown in.
It should pull reasonably well but it's definitely going to have a massive kick when it comes into the powerband. The fella who runs the 421 described it as being nice and easy to ride below the powerband, bloody powerful but manageable kept on the boil.... But if you ride hard through the powerband that's where all manner of st goes down haha.
Haha. Fookin mental.It should pull reasonably well but it's definitely going to have a massive kick when it comes into the powerband. The fella who runs the 421 described it as being nice and easy to ride below the powerband, bloody powerful but manageable kept on the boil.... But if you ride hard through the powerband that's where all manner of s
t goes down haha. it is going to be scary and hilarious!
Took a gamble on gold for the wheels and happy with how they've turned out. A lot of shades of gold are either too dark or too light for me but saw this and thought it was worth a go. The gold discs look a bit in your face with the gold wheels but I'm sure once they're on the bike with tyres on it'll break it all up a bit and should look good. Plus gold wheels have always looked good against the Yamaha blue I'm planning on having it painted in that I've seen on various R1s.
New bearings, seals, right angle valves and titanium bolts
Just had an email to say my TZ250 fairings are with the courier too
New bearings, seals, right angle valves and titanium bolts
Just had an email to say my TZ250 fairings are with the courier too
Edited by Yazza54 on Friday 17th July 07:53
Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff