Mito 443 Project
Discussion
Thanks for the kind words, regarding the rad - as I said in my update last night it has indeed made contact and I'm going to re do the radiator. It's a 1st Gen SV650 rad and I'm not happy with its cooling capacity either, it's not wide enough so is fairly obstructed by the forks. The 2nd gen SV650 rad is a bit shorter to will give more clearance to the tyre but quite a lot wider, so should see that problem put to bed and fortunately they aren't that expensive. The other thing that will help is a slightly smaller fan. Sounds like a lot of fking about but it won't cost much to put right really.
Ryan,
Not sure what the SV rad looks like compared to the Ali rad in the earlier pictures, but maybe have a look at Aprilia RS250/Ducati 996/748/999/1098 rads. They're quite wide and very curved which might bring the rad closer to the bike and prevent the front wheel from striking .
If the 1098 rad works they have very low profile fans which might be helpful as well
Just a thought....
Not sure what the SV rad looks like compared to the Ali rad in the earlier pictures, but maybe have a look at Aprilia RS250/Ducati 996/748/999/1098 rads. They're quite wide and very curved which might bring the rad closer to the bike and prevent the front wheel from striking .
If the 1098 rad works they have very low profile fans which might be helpful as well
Just a thought....
The problem I've found with curved radiators on this bike is that the forks will hit it on full lock, so I'm just introducing a new issue. I did look at Ducati rads at the time and didn't bother for that reason and the fact the outlets are all in the wrong place. The one I have now wouldn't touch without the fan as I could angle it back, it's a combination of things causing the problem.
got ya..
Inlets and outlets are easily moved around... But surprised curved rads foul the forks on full lock.
Another option which I had on an old 996 rad is to shape the bottom of the rad to sit around the exhaust pipes. So the end cans drop down a lot further than the centre. Good way to improve the volume of the rad without causing too much in the way of central space issues.
And once the fairings are fitted, try to ensure there's no gaps around the rad where air can bypass the front of the rad. It massively improves the efficiency of the rad on the move
Inlets and outlets are easily moved around... But surprised curved rads foul the forks on full lock.
Another option which I had on an old 996 rad is to shape the bottom of the rad to sit around the exhaust pipes. So the end cans drop down a lot further than the centre. Good way to improve the volume of the rad without causing too much in the way of central space issues.
And once the fairings are fitted, try to ensure there's no gaps around the rad where air can bypass the front of the rad. It massively improves the efficiency of the rad on the move
What kind of temp range does the Yam motor need to be kept between?
I find if my RS goes over 70 degrees the bike really drops away hard. Not really an issue when moving but it seems to warm up quite a bit when static. I'm not running a thermostat and starting to wonder if it's causing a flow issue.
Still thinking of running an electric water pump rather than the crank drive impeller if just for the constant flow rate at all rpm..
I find if my RS goes over 70 degrees the bike really drops away hard. Not really an issue when moving but it seems to warm up quite a bit when static. I'm not running a thermostat and starting to wonder if it's causing a flow issue.
Still thinking of running an electric water pump rather than the crank drive impeller if just for the constant flow rate at all rpm..
bass gt3 said:
What kind of temp range does the Yam motor need to be kept between?
I find if my RS goes over 70 degrees the bike really drops away hard. Not really an issue when moving but it seems to warm up quite a bit when static. I'm not running a thermostat and starting to wonder if it's causing a flow issue.
Still thinking of running an electric water pump rather than the crank drive impeller if just for the constant flow rate at all rpm..
The leccy pump would be pretty easy to sort too I imagine, just constant feed switched on ignition? I find if my RS goes over 70 degrees the bike really drops away hard. Not really an issue when moving but it seems to warm up quite a bit when static. I'm not running a thermostat and starting to wonder if it's causing a flow issue.
Still thinking of running an electric water pump rather than the crank drive impeller if just for the constant flow rate at all rpm..
The temp range is a funny one, Martin said he likes to keep his 421 around 55-60, but there's countless people online saying they're running banshees way up in the 80s with no ill effects. It does feel happier around 60 to be honest.
Just on the way home from John Warrington motorcycles, Dave and John were great, very helpful and more than happy to explain the whole process not just bang jets in get it somewhere near and take your money kinda guys, true gents and highly recommended.
They did as well as they could with the selection of carb parts I took (one needle oops). It needs more fine tuning and ignition mapping, it wasn't really responding when Dave tried to add some advance to get the flat spot gone as the fuelling was too rich mid range so he decided to just put it on a flat map.
It still made 109hp at the wheel @ 9469 rpm and 61ftlb at 9227
Starts to sign off after 9500 just as kenny from TSA said it would.
Massive potential and not a bad starting point
Will post a vid later
They did as well as they could with the selection of carb parts I took (one needle oops). It needs more fine tuning and ignition mapping, it wasn't really responding when Dave tried to add some advance to get the flat spot gone as the fuelling was too rich mid range so he decided to just put it on a flat map.
It still made 109hp at the wheel @ 9469 rpm and 61ftlb at 9227
Starts to sign off after 9500 just as kenny from TSA said it would.
Massive potential and not a bad starting point
Will post a vid later
Yazza54 said:
Just on the way home from John Warrington motorcycles, Dave and John were great, very helpful and more than happy to explain the whole process not just bang jets in get it somewhere near and take your money kinda guys, true gents and highly recommended.
They did as well as they could with the selection of carb parts I took (one needle oops). It needs more fine tuning and ignition mapping, it wasn't really responding when Dave tried to add some advance to get the flat spot gone as the fuelling was too rich mid range so he decided to just put it on a flat map.
It still made 109hp at the wheel @ 9469 rpm and 61ftlb at 9227
Starts to sign off after 9500 just as kenny from TSA said it would.
Massive potential and not a bad starting point
Will post a vid later
Result They did as well as they could with the selection of carb parts I took (one needle oops). It needs more fine tuning and ignition mapping, it wasn't really responding when Dave tried to add some advance to get the flat spot gone as the fuelling was too rich mid range so he decided to just put it on a flat map.
It still made 109hp at the wheel @ 9469 rpm and 61ftlb at 9227
Starts to sign off after 9500 just as kenny from TSA said it would.
Massive potential and not a bad starting point
Will post a vid later
What throttle opening is it struggling at Ryan??
109 and 61 for a first run is amazing!!
While we're on the subject of numbers, I'm just posting what I know and what happened on the day, no willy waving intended.
I did expect it to break 100 but was very impressed with it going way over that. Main thing is it makes very good power at good revs and is more rich than anything so it's safe. No dramas so I'm happy - for now.
I had a go on it on the dyno and rolling on it wasn't too bad to be honest, but noticeable. Worse trying to just give it full throttle on a power run from low revs but I would never ride it like that.
I did expect it to break 100 but was very impressed with it going way over that. Main thing is it makes very good power at good revs and is more rich than anything so it's safe. No dramas so I'm happy - for now.
I had a go on it on the dyno and rolling on it wasn't too bad to be honest, but noticeable. Worse trying to just give it full throttle on a power run from low revs but I would never ride it like that.
Yazza54 said:
While we're on the subject of numbers, I'm just posting what I know and what happened on the day, no willy waving intended.
I did expect it to break 100 but was very impressed with it going way over that. Main thing is it makes very good power at good revs and is more rich than anything so it's safe. No dramas so I'm happy - for now.
I had a go on it on the dyno and rolling on it wasn't too bad to be honest, but noticeable. Worse trying to just give it full throttle on a power run from low revs but I would never ride it like that.
It's all cool..I did expect it to break 100 but was very impressed with it going way over that. Main thing is it makes very good power at good revs and is more rich than anything so it's safe. No dramas so I'm happy - for now.
I had a go on it on the dyno and rolling on it wasn't too bad to be honest, but noticeable. Worse trying to just give it full throttle on a power run from low revs but I would never ride it like that.
So where's the flat spot? 1/4..1/2...3/4 or full throttle?? Is the ignition curve flat or something like the 421 you mentioned?
Yazza54 said:
Seems to happen trying to roll on through 6-7k from say 3/4-full throttle
They were talking about needle tapers and thicknesses but I may try riding it and coming down a size on the mains for comparison too as I know it's very safe on WOT.
Is it happening on a steady throttle or rolling throttle??They were talking about needle tapers and thicknesses but I may try riding it and coming down a size on the mains for comparison too as I know it's very safe on WOT.
bass gt3 said:
Yazza54 said:
Seems to happen trying to roll on through 6-7k from say 3/4-full throttle
They were talking about needle tapers and thicknesses but I may try riding it and coming down a size on the mains for comparison too as I know it's very safe on WOT.
Is it happening on a steady throttle or rolling throttle??They were talking about needle tapers and thicknesses but I may try riding it and coming down a size on the mains for comparison too as I know it's very safe on WOT.
Yazza54 said:
bass gt3 said:
Yazza54 said:
Seems to happen trying to roll on through 6-7k from say 3/4-full throttle
They were talking about needle tapers and thicknesses but I may try riding it and coming down a size on the mains for comparison too as I know it's very safe on WOT.
Is it happening on a steady throttle or rolling throttle??They were talking about needle tapers and thicknesses but I may try riding it and coming down a size on the mains for comparison too as I know it's very safe on WOT.
bass gt3 said:
Yazza54 said:
bass gt3 said:
Yazza54 said:
Seems to happen trying to roll on through 6-7k from say 3/4-full throttle
They were talking about needle tapers and thicknesses but I may try riding it and coming down a size on the mains for comparison too as I know it's very safe on WOT.
Is it happening on a steady throttle or rolling throttle??They were talking about needle tapers and thicknesses but I may try riding it and coming down a size on the mains for comparison too as I know it's very safe on WOT.
Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff