Brake leaver going soft on track...
Discussion
Hooli said:
Mr2Mike said:
IIRC the pad outgassing theory for brake fade fade was discredited due to the large amount of gas that would need to be generated to sustain a "gas bearing" on a moving disc. It's primarily because the coefficient of friction drops quite rapidly above the pads operating temperature range.
I hadn't heard that, bang goes me looking intelligent for once.
My money is on there being a sticky piston thats keeping the pad pressed against the disc causing increased quiescent temperatures. As the session goes on, these temps rise with brake usage and overheat the fluid so the lever comes further and further back.
Maybe try lifting the front up and spinning the front wheel. If it's binding it should be fairly obvious.
Or it could be a kak Master Cylinder giving up the ghost.
Maybe try lifting the front up and spinning the front wheel. If it's binding it should be fairly obvious.
Or it could be a kak Master Cylinder giving up the ghost.
Well, the pads i bought definitely solved the fade problem. I fully recommend them. You do however have to give the brake lever a LOT more respect.
Lap 2 of my track day resulted in my first off at circa 70mph thanks to a locked front wheel, followed by a tankslapper and a short slide on my arse.
Bike was mechanically ok, but could look better and all I have is a bruise on my hip and an interesting story for the pub. Rode in all the other session of the day and the brakes were fantastic.
Lap 2 of my track day resulted in my first off at circa 70mph thanks to a locked front wheel, followed by a tankslapper and a short slide on my arse.
Bike was mechanically ok, but could look better and all I have is a bruise on my hip and an interesting story for the pub. Rode in all the other session of the day and the brakes were fantastic.
Hello Again, so an update on this:
I pulled the pads out of the bike to find that there was a very old set of Brembo pads in there.
Surprisingly the callipers were in excellent condition, clean and mechanically perfect with everything moving freely. So i dropped in a set of SBC Duel Carbon pads and slotted them back on the bike. A few days later we took the bike to Rockingham. SBC say you need to take a few laps to bed them in properly and you need to warm them up on your out lap so after a few laps bedding in I started to give it some beans.
What a difference.
100% more feel, significantly more braking power and after an entire day of thrashing it round Rockingham not a single bit of sponginess in the lever.
Great success.
Bizzle said:
Hello Again, so an update on this:
I pulled the pads out of the bike to find that there was a very old set of Brembo pads in there.
Surprisingly the callipers were in excellent condition, clean and mechanically perfect with everything moving freely. So i dropped in a set of SBC Duel Carbon pads and slotted them back on the bike. A few days later we took the bike to Rockingham. SBC say you need to take a few laps to bed them in properly and you need to warm them up on your out lap so after a few laps bedding in I started to give it some beans.
What a difference.
100% more feel, significantly more braking power and after an entire day of thrashing it round Rockingham not a single bit of sponginess in the lever.
Great success.
Exactly the same as me, only you gave the new pads the proper respect and kept it upright. I pulled the pads out of the bike to find that there was a very old set of Brembo pads in there.
Surprisingly the callipers were in excellent condition, clean and mechanically perfect with everything moving freely. So i dropped in a set of SBC Duel Carbon pads and slotted them back on the bike. A few days later we took the bike to Rockingham. SBC say you need to take a few laps to bed them in properly and you need to warm them up on your out lap so after a few laps bedding in I started to give it some beans.
What a difference.
100% more feel, significantly more braking power and after an entire day of thrashing it round Rockingham not a single bit of sponginess in the lever.
Great success.
Mr OCD said:
Glad it is sorted... currently have the same issue on my R1 ... the lever went soft and despite bleeding (twice) I still can't get the lever back properly... other pads (SBS RS) installed and we have power but too much lever travel...
Not sure about bikes but if I had a niggly bit of air on a car I'd leave a very heavy dumb bell or some bricks on the pedal for 24hrs.
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