Brakes gone soft after Track Day?
Discussion
... it gets an easy life 95% of the time... the other 5% it gets its arse totally spanked! 
steve954 said:
Trick I use if I get a soft lever is put the bike on the side stand over night with the bars turned into the stand, then pull the lever back to the bar and tie strap it like that until the morning! Should have a solid lever again.
I did this and it worked a treat. Cheers!Hi Guys
I see some of you saying you are using regular EBC HH pads on trackday outings and want to point out the regular STREET HH is not right for this application - they are a long life Superbike street pad , you need the softer and more heat cycling EPFA (means they can handle multiple high heating and cooling cycles without glazing) or the top race grade GPFAX shown here.
http://ebcbrakes.com/product/extreme-pro-brake-pad...
http://ebcbrakes.com/product/gpfa-brake-pads/
Making this post to guide you guys, for your safety rather than commercial gain
Thanks
I see some of you saying you are using regular EBC HH pads on trackday outings and want to point out the regular STREET HH is not right for this application - they are a long life Superbike street pad , you need the softer and more heat cycling EPFA (means they can handle multiple high heating and cooling cycles without glazing) or the top race grade GPFAX shown here.
http://ebcbrakes.com/product/extreme-pro-brake-pad...
http://ebcbrakes.com/product/gpfa-brake-pads/
Making this post to guide you guys, for your safety rather than commercial gain
Thanks
John D. said:
steve954 said:
Trick I use if I get a soft lever is put the bike on the side stand over night with the bars turned into the stand, then pull the lever back to the bar and tie strap it like that until the morning! Should have a solid lever again.
I did this and it worked a treat. Cheers!Yazza54 said:
I did that on the Srad the other day thinking what have I got to loose but not really expecting much and it definitely helped!
Note that it doesn't cause cause any air to rise up to the master cylinder, it works by encouraging the air to dissolve into the brake fluid, just like adding CO2 gas under pressure to make a fizzy drink. Also like a fizzy drink, any gas dissolved into the fluid can also find it's way back out. i.e. it's a bodge.Mr2Mike said:
Yazza54 said:
I did that on the Srad the other day thinking what have I got to loose but not really expecting much and it definitely helped!
Note that it doesn't cause cause any air to rise up to the master cylinder, it works by encouraging the air to dissolve into the brake fluid, just like adding CO2 gas under pressure to make a fizzy drink. Also like a fizzy drink, any gas dissolved into the fluid can also find it's way back out. i.e. it's a bodge.http://www.helperformance.com/bleeding-instruction...
Have Hel got it wrong then? See a few paragraphs from the bottom of the page
Have Hel got it wrong then? See a few paragraphs from the bottom of the page
Mr2Mike said:
They have it correct in that it will make your brakes feel great, as any trace amounts of air will be dissolved. However, gasses dissolved in fluids can and do get released so it's not an alternative to proper bleeding in the first place.
+1Helpful at this point to also change to fresh fluid, which has no gas or water in.
monamimate said:
Not sure this is a good idea, as brake fluid is highly hydrophilic (think that's the right term), meaning it will attract moisture. Moisture in brake fluid is a no-no as it reduces its boiling point...
Its hygroscopic 
I've seen similar issues with non braided lines where when the lever is depressed a line will bulge giving a longer travelling lever.
The guy regarding the correct pads for track shouldn't be ignored either. I'm sure lots of people bang pads in on discs, damage the discs then keep swopping pads because they feel terrible. Regarding brakes listen to experts not wannabe mechanics on forums. That said there are a few people on here who are worth listening to. I'm not one of them
Cunny DK said:
monamimate said:
Not sure this is a good idea, as brake fluid is highly hydrophilic (think that's the right term), meaning it will attract moisture. Moisture in brake fluid is a no-no as it reduces its boiling point...
Its hygroscopic I thought an hydrophilic item was easily dissolved in water as in it loves water which I suppose is kinda correct.
As for pads damaging discs, this can happen if you fit road pads and do a track day and glaze your pads if they haven't been bed in properly. They then become brittle and begin break up. You then wear partial grooves in your discs and when new pads are fitted you end up braking on the high spots which only give partial brake performance. Look at the picture above.
As for pads damaging discs, this can happen if you fit road pads and do a track day and glaze your pads if they haven't been bed in properly. They then become brittle and begin break up. You then wear partial grooves in your discs and when new pads are fitted you end up braking on the high spots which only give partial brake performance. Look at the picture above.
Cunny DK said:
As for pads damaging discs, this can happen if you fit road pads and do a track day and glaze your pads if they haven't been bed in properly. They then become brittle and begin break up. You then wear partial grooves in your discs and when new pads are fitted you end up braking on the high spots which only give partial brake performance. Look at the picture above.
The grooves were old brake pad material / residue coming off from the old OE pads...They disappeared pretty quickly using the SBS RS pads which is what I've stuck with... If going to change pad type it would be a good idea to remove old pad residue before you fit them... I didn't get time as I was in the middle of a track day.
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