Changing a front sprocket for dummies
Discussion
sc0tt said:
Hooli said:
No one has mentioned the speedo yet (except BN) where do they read from on R1s? it'll overead (even more than normal) with shorter gearing on.
By 7% I believeJust remembering is illegal but it'll keep your mileage down a bit.
sc0tt said:
3DP said:
Sc0tt - bring your sprocket and muscles tonight and I'll change it with you.
Does your swingarm have crash bungs/cotton reals fitted so I can get it onto one of my paddock stands? It'll be a b
h of a job otherwise and I'm not sure I have any spare M8/10/12 bolts or whatever the Yamaha thread is, to screw in temporarily.
I'll IM you.
Tonight isn't going to be good for me. I was out on the town last night and I erm haven't been to bed yet.Does your swingarm have crash bungs/cotton reals fitted so I can get it onto one of my paddock stands? It'll be a b
h of a job otherwise and I'm not sure I have any spare M8/10/12 bolts or whatever the Yamaha thread is, to screw in temporarily.I'll IM you.
Sorry buddy.
Yes it has cotton reels.
Sorry, I should have sent instructions 
The way with the least number of tools is...
Remove the sprocket cover and bend back the lock tabs a bit.
Sit on the bike and apply the rear brake.
Using a long breaker bar an an appropriate socket loosen the nut.
Remove the nut and the lock washer
Slide the sprocket off with the chain if there's enough room (if yo can't do this you'll have to now remove the chain from the rear sprocket somehow (removing the wheel is easy).
Slide the new sprocket on with the chain
Refit the lock washer and the nut
Tighten it up sat on the bike with rear brake on
Lock the tab washer
Refit the sprocket cover
Adjust the now slightly loose chain
Wheelie every where and condemn yourself to speed calculations until you decide whether you like it and get a speedo adjuster or you don't and put it back to standard
Cheers,
Mark
The way with the least number of tools is...
Remove the sprocket cover and bend back the lock tabs a bit.
Sit on the bike and apply the rear brake.
Using a long breaker bar an an appropriate socket loosen the nut.
Remove the nut and the lock washer
Slide the sprocket off with the chain if there's enough room (if yo can't do this you'll have to now remove the chain from the rear sprocket somehow (removing the wheel is easy).
Slide the new sprocket on with the chain
Refit the lock washer and the nut
Tighten it up sat on the bike with rear brake on
Lock the tab washer
Refit the sprocket cover
Adjust the now slightly loose chain
Wheelie every where and condemn yourself to speed calculations until you decide whether you like it and get a speedo adjuster or you don't and put it back to standard
Cheers,
Mark
dern said:
Sorry, I should have sent instructions
The way with the least number of tools is...
Removes the sprocket cover and bend back the lock tabs a bit.
Sit on the bike and apply the rear brake.
Using a long breaker bar an an appropriate socket loosen the nut.
Remove the nut and the lock washer
Slide the sprocket off with the chain if there's enough room (if yo can't do this you'll have to now remove the chain from the rear sprocket somehow (removing the wheel is easy).
Slide the new sprocket on with the chain
Refit the lock washer and the nut
Tighten it up sat on the bike with rear brake on
Lock the tab washer
Refit the sprocket cover
Adjust the now slightly loose chain
Wheelie every where and condemn yourself to speed calculations until you decide whether you like it and get a speedo adjuster or you don't and put it back to standard
Cheers,
Mark
The way with the least number of tools is...
Removes the sprocket cover and bend back the lock tabs a bit.
Sit on the bike and apply the rear brake.
Using a long breaker bar an an appropriate socket loosen the nut.
Remove the nut and the lock washer
Slide the sprocket off with the chain if there's enough room (if yo can't do this you'll have to now remove the chain from the rear sprocket somehow (removing the wheel is easy).
Slide the new sprocket on with the chain
Refit the lock washer and the nut
Tighten it up sat on the bike with rear brake on
Lock the tab washer
Refit the sprocket cover
Adjust the now slightly loose chain
Wheelie every where and condemn yourself to speed calculations until you decide whether you like it and get a speedo adjuster or you don't and put it back to standard
Cheers,
Mark
I don't actually remember opening it last night but I saw it on this side this morning and remembered what it was.
How did you find it?
Thanks again - Can't believe how quickly it came.
sc0tt said:
I don't actually remember opening it last night but I saw it on this side this morning and remembered what it was.
How did you find it?
Thanks again - Can't believe how quickly it came.
I originally got it because I found that the bike was bogging down pulling away and had to use loads of revs and someone made the suggestion it might be the gearing and it was only a tenner. I found subsequently I had a problem with a coil which caused the issues pulling away. I liked the lower gearing but didn't find it significantly better to justify the cost of the speedo adjuster so I put it back to standard once I'd sorted out the coil and then it sat in my tool box for ages and then I sold the bike.
Cheers,
Mark
Hooli said:
It'll wear quicker but I'd be surprised at it causing an issue like that.
Admittedly it's a lot lower power but I went through several sprockets on my Triumph before picking the gearing I liked & then put a new set on once the bitsa had worn out.
No one has mentioned the speedo yet (except BN) where do they read from on R1s? it'll overead (even more than normal) with shorter gearing on.
It does happen unfortunately... as chain and sprockets wear together ... likewise can also cause premature wear.Admittedly it's a lot lower power but I went through several sprockets on my Triumph before picking the gearing I liked & then put a new set on once the bitsa had worn out.
No one has mentioned the speedo yet (except BN) where do they read from on R1s? it'll overead (even more than normal) with shorter gearing on.
Rear from gearbox on R1 so yes it will need a speedo healer but most don't bother.
dern said:
No worries.
I originally got it because I found that the bike was bogging down pulling away and had to use loads of revs and someone made the suggestion it might be the gearing and it was only a tenner. I found subsequently I had a problem with a coil which caused the issues pulling away. I liked the lower gearing but didn't find it significantly better to justify the cost of the speedo adjuster so I put it back to standard once I'd sorted out the coil and then it sat in my tool box for ages and then I sold the bike.
Cheers,
Mark
Cool, I'll let you know how I get on I originally got it because I found that the bike was bogging down pulling away and had to use loads of revs and someone made the suggestion it might be the gearing and it was only a tenner. I found subsequently I had a problem with a coil which caused the issues pulling away. I liked the lower gearing but didn't find it significantly better to justify the cost of the speedo adjuster so I put it back to standard once I'd sorted out the coil and then it sat in my tool box for ages and then I sold the bike.
Cheers,
Mark
Cheers
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