Testing sensor on R1
Discussion
Mr OCD said:
I don't have the old sensor unfortunately as after fixing the issue last time I stupidly threw the sensor away!
So we can only test the voltage at the coupler (with sensor disconnected) and the voltage is not changing on cranking at all.
not clever throwing away the old one! So we can only test the voltage at the coupler (with sensor disconnected) and the voltage is not changing on cranking at all.
ok, so if you're measuring at the connector FROM the ecu the 3 wires should be as such.
1. permanent 5vdc (4.6 is close enough)
2. permanent ground. check to ecu ground
3. signal. With the CIS sensor disconnected there should be nada on this pin. no voltage and no ground. this is the return signal into the ecu.
you can remove the sensor from the head, connect it so its connection and hold the end close to a ferrous metal. this will simulate the teeth that trigger the sensor in real life.
Alternatively' see if you can wrap some fine wire around the pins in the connector to give you 3 flying leads when you snap the connector back together. then you can see exactly what is happening with the sensor. or possibly put some wires or your dvm probe into the rear of the ecu connection so you can pick up the signals there.
does the code 11 flag before cranking or during/after? ????
you need to see what's happening on the sensor cables to really determine the fault. find a way to jack in 3 cables and get testing
pictures might help at this point as I'm not sure where or what you're measuring.
However, if you're seeing 1.38 vdc on the signal wire with it connected to the ecu its quite possible you're seeing the ecu side of the circuit which may pull down quite a bit.
is it throwing code 11's?? with this reading? ?
Ideally you want the permanent 5v and the ground connected to the ecu. the signal wire from the sensor should be disconnected from the ecu so you can measure the return signal without the ecu side connected. this signal should vary from 0 to 4.6 during cranking but your dvm will see the average and settle around 3 to 4 vdc.
However, if you're seeing 1.38 vdc on the signal wire with it connected to the ecu its quite possible you're seeing the ecu side of the circuit which may pull down quite a bit.
is it throwing code 11's?? with this reading? ?
Ideally you want the permanent 5v and the ground connected to the ecu. the signal wire from the sensor should be disconnected from the ecu so you can measure the return signal without the ecu side connected. this signal should vary from 0 to 4.6 during cranking but your dvm will see the average and settle around 3 to 4 vdc.
I have just been to Loons to nick his CIS off his working track bike... Whilst there I measured voltage at coupler (ECU side) and got 4.98v ... I am about to test the CIS on my own bike and will then test voltage...
All test readings being done on loom from ecu to coupler ... I then spliced into loom just before the sensor but after the coupler and got 1.38v ...
All test readings being done on loom from ecu to coupler ... I then spliced into loom just before the sensor but after the coupler and got 1.38v ...
LoonR1 said:
I'd better get the working one back or all hell will break loose 
You are a legend ! Now it gets interesting ... Plugged sensor in... Turned over and still flashing '11' on dashboard so I gave the connector a wiggle whilst trying again and '11' goes out on dashboard... And the bike tries to start up (tank is off atm) ...
So disconnected sensor and measure voltage and we have exactly 5v (5.04v) at the coupler ...
So what reckon? Dodgy sensor? Bad coupler connection?
you could do - what's your soldering like? Or do you have good crimper. Can you buy a replacement connector? Try http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/C... easternbeaver. I've cut and replaced all 6 injectors on a car before; after the first snip of the oem wiring you get over it!
Definitely seems to point to the coupler on the ecu side. . If you can, maybe change it for a different type if you can crimp pins.
I use the Ducati type as they're waterproof with their little plugs but any good quality automotive connector will do. Have a look around but the ones I'm on ai can't remember the name but they're readily available from RS components or maplins. Don't solder, electrical chock block or just twist it up, it won't last long and you'll be back to square one.
I'll have a look at the rs catalogue and see if I can find them.
Alternatively, maybe try some electrical contact cleaner and a fine grip paper on the contacts to see if they can be cleaned up and got working?
I use the Ducati type as they're waterproof with their little plugs but any good quality automotive connector will do. Have a look around but the ones I'm on ai can't remember the name but they're readily available from RS components or maplins. Don't solder, electrical chock block or just twist it up, it won't last long and you'll be back to square one.
I'll have a look at the rs catalogue and see if I can find them.
Alternatively, maybe try some electrical contact cleaner and a fine grip paper on the contacts to see if they can be cleaned up and got working?
To be honest I want a permanent solution as it is such a pain to strip bike down to get to the loom... I have the ignition loom off the bike at moment ready for proper repair. I did think about replacing the loom but buying another used one could create more problems.
I used to race electric RC so my soldering is A1... Have no issues in that respect but if going to put new connector in then I need to find something locally... And ideally in next day or two...
Really odd how wiggling the connector made the bike fire to life and yet I can't replicate the fault again ... All the times I unplugged / plugged that connector too... It has me baffled. So I'm still a little apprehensive as to whether this is 100% the fault ...
One thing I will do if install connector is move the connector to somewhere easy to access in future... Just in case!
I used to race electric RC so my soldering is A1... Have no issues in that respect but if going to put new connector in then I need to find something locally... And ideally in next day or two...
Really odd how wiggling the connector made the bike fire to life and yet I can't replicate the fault again ... All the times I unplugged / plugged that connector too... It has me baffled. So I'm still a little apprehensive as to whether this is 100% the fault ...
One thing I will do if install connector is move the connector to somewhere easy to access in future... Just in case!
I wouldn't solder the joint. Start by cleaning up the contacts and maybe bending the pins a fraction. This should improve the contact and prevent reoccurrence.
Alternatively, look at the Superseal 3 way connector. Get the male and female sides with boots and remake the connector, possibly extending the lead if it makes life easier. The Superseal are an excellent connector and should put an end to the problem.
But faults like this are by their nature a pig to find. Its very likely that the connection is loose/ intermittent going by the symptoms. It's always possible but 2 sensors with the same fault? Possible but unlikely.
Alternatively, look at the Superseal 3 way connector. Get the male and female sides with boots and remake the connector, possibly extending the lead if it makes life easier. The Superseal are an excellent connector and should put an end to the problem.
But faults like this are by their nature a pig to find. Its very likely that the connection is loose/ intermittent going by the symptoms. It's always possible but 2 sensors with the same fault? Possible but unlikely.
bass gt3 said:
I wouldn't solder the joint. Start by cleaning up the contacts and maybe bending the pins a fraction. This should improve the contact and prevent reoccurrence.
Alternatively, look at the Superseal 3 way connector. Get the male and female sides with boots and remake the connector, possibly extending the lead if it makes life easier. The Superseal are an excellent connector and should put an end to the problem.
But faults like this are by their nature a pig to find. Its very likely that the connection is loose/ intermittent going by the symptoms. It's always possible but 2 sensors with the same fault? Possible but unlikely.
If the pins are loose then bending them may only be a short term fix I suspect ... I've got a maplins down the road so might be able to find something in there tomorrow. Alternatively, look at the Superseal 3 way connector. Get the male and female sides with boots and remake the connector, possibly extending the lead if it makes life easier. The Superseal are an excellent connector and should put an end to the problem.
But faults like this are by their nature a pig to find. Its very likely that the connection is loose/ intermittent going by the symptoms. It's always possible but 2 sensors with the same fault? Possible but unlikely.
If use replacement connector I can't extend the loom either ... If anything it will shorten the loom unless I solder extra wiring into it... Again not ideal.
At present connector sits smack bang in middle of engine between coil backs and is impossible to reach without dropping the radiator ... If I could move it would save so much time if I need to test it again in future.
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