Testing sensor on R1

[bass gt3]

Mr OCD said:

All that ... And it flashes code 11 this evening - back to the drawing board

Now the battery is replaced, canyou check the voltage at the cam sensor during cranking/? It seems like it's being pulled very low and triggering the threshold alarm. Alternatively, check ALL the earth points disconnect,clean with electrical cleaner/fine grit paper and reconnect

[Yazza54]

So that's the camshaft pickup sensor code again.... Didn't you fit a new sensor already?

Maybe there's a wire in that loom frayed or something.

[Fleegle]

Yazza54 said:

Maybe there's a wire in that loom frayed or something.

This

Or the ECU is fked

[Mr OCD]

bass gt3 said:

Now the battery is replaced, canyou check the voltage at the cam sensor during cranking/? It seems like it's being pulled very low and triggering the threshold alarm. Alternatively, check ALL the earth points disconnect,clean with electrical cleaner/fine grit paper and reconnect

I did check the voltage at the sensor coupling on Monday and it was fine.

I'm pulling the bike apart tomorrow and checking voltage at ecu ... Will check all the earths whilst I am doing that... Annoyingly I need to drop radiator again to get at sensor!

Getting proper fed up with this bike now. It had better not be the ecu.

[Mr OCD]

Yazza54 said:

So that's the camshaft pickup sensor code again.... Didn't you fit a new sensor already?

Maybe there's a wire in that loom frayed or something.

I reckon you are right ... As before it would eventually start. This time it refuses to fire at all so time to start checking the sub loom.

[SAS Tom]

Have you tried turning it off then on again?

[Mr OCD]

SAS Tom said:

Have you tried turning it off then on again?

Tosser

[Mr OCD]

Today is rip the wiring loom apart ... Interestingly it looks like someone has been at part of the loom on left hand side of the radiator before ... So once I've tested the sensor I'm going there first...

Got a few mates coming over for beer and support also ... Several heads is better than one!

[Yazza54]

Good luck

[Hooli]

Convert it to carbs & a magneto like real bikes

[theshrew]

Wouldn't be a bad idea if you do a continuity test on the sensor wire. Might have some corrosion in the wire with all the washing you do.

Feel for you these type of problems are the worst you can get.

[Mr OCD]

Ok, so the bike is in bits ... I have completely stripped the front wiring loom off the front of the engine... This is the loom that plugs into the coils and cylinder identification sensor via a large plug. I've pulled back all the insulation to check for wire breaks, etc and it all looks fine.

Checking for voltage on the CIS as per manual and I get 4.6v ... (Although it's bloody fiddly holding the pins and cranking the bike over!) When crank on starter it doesn't seem to change voltage though as I thought it was supposed too or do you not see that at the coupling?

Not sure what to do next to be honest. Just about to go and have a look at ECU loom although given I'm getting a signal as the CIS makes me wonder if im wasting my time.

I'm seriously considering biting the bullet on a brand new CIS.

[bass gt3]

Thought you had bought and fitted a brand new cam sensor already? ???
and whilst you may be getting the correct voltage at the sensor coupling the sign or ground wires may be damaged or corroded. worth doing a continuity test on all the wires and manipulate the loom to see if there's an intermittent fault

[Mr OCD]

bass gt3 said:

Thought you had bought and fitted a brand new cam sensor already? ???
and whilst you may be getting the correct voltage at the sensor coupling the sign or ground wires may be damaged or corroded. worth doing a continuity test on all the wires and manipulate the loom to see if there's an intermittent fault

It was a used item mate. Beginning he regret that now despite the cost of the sensor!

I've followed the wires back to the ECU. They are immaculate ... Ive even pulled back the original sheath to ensure no breaks due to twist in loom.

Is there anyway to test sensor rather than just voltage readings as coupler?

I've also pulled the ECU and checked the pins.

[CoolHands]

http://youtu.be/yeqzE_eNlio

[Mr OCD]

CoolHands said:

http://youtu.be/yeqzE_eNlio

Thanks for that...

Live - 4.6v

Switched Lives - 4.6v

Now I thought the switched live would alternate between 0v and 5v?

On cranking it doesn't change. I can't check voltages with coupler connected as sealed connectors.

[bass gt3]

Mr OCD said:

It was a used item mate. Beginning he regret that now despite the cost of the sensor!

I've followed the wires back to the ECU. They are immaculate ... Ive even pulled back the original sheath to ensure no breaks due to twist in loom.

Is there anyway to test sensor rather than just voltage readings as coupler?

I've also pulled the ECU and checked the pins.

ahhh. that would make sense.
if you are getting the same symptoms on both sensors then try to jack into one of them where it connects into the main loom. then keep switching on/off until the code 11 occurs. then measure the voltages or grounds on all 3 wires. if the other unit is 2nd hand and you don't mind sacrificing it then strip the outer sheaths back to gain access to the cores. when you switch on/ff try to let the motor spin a fraction so the trigger teeth move. see what happens.
if you get a code 11 and there's definitely a breakdown in the sensor or cable you'll see the 5v is missing or the ground or the reference voltage.
you can also simulate the fault by opening up the wires anx see what the ecu does.
if the cabling is 100% then its a dodgy sensor or the the 5vdc o/p from the ecu is going wobbly. However i doubt it as it would affect baro sensor, tps etc so you should get loads of alarms

[bass gt3]

Mr OCD said:

Thanks for that...

Live - 4.6v

Switched Lives - 4.6v

Now I thought the switched live would alternate between 0v and 5v?

On cranking it doesn't change. I can't check voltages with coupler connected as sealed connectors.

when cranking you should see a variation in the trigger voltage. its going from 0vdc to 4.6vdc as the trigger teeth pass it. so even on a basic dvm you should see a slightly lower voltage as the motor cranks. although the true average would e 2.3vdc due to the slow reaction to the changes you should see irca 4 to 3.5 vdc. when you stop cranking the voltage should be zero or 4.6 depending on whether or not there's a trigger tooth facing the sensor.
if the trigger voltage is stable when cranking I'd be very suspicious of the sensor!
and you mentioned switched live (s)??? There should be a single constant 5vdc feed, a chassis/ecu ground and the switched 5vdc back to the ecu. do you have these???

Edited by bass gt3 on Saturday 27th September 15:41

[Mr OCD]

bass gt3 said:

when cranking you should see a variation in the trigger voltage. its going from 0vdc to 4.6vdc as the trigger teeth pass it. so even on a basic dvm you should see a slightly lower voltage as the motor cranks. although the true average would e 2.3vdc due to the slow reaction to the changes you should see irca 4 to 3.5 vdc. when you stop cranking the voltage should be zero or 4.6 depending on whether or not there's a trigger tooth facing the sensor.
if the trigger voltage is stable when cranking I'd be very suspicious of the sensor!

I don't have the old sensor unfortunately as after fixing the issue last time I stupidly threw the sensor away!

So we can only test the voltage at the coupler (with sensor disconnected) and the voltage is not changing on cranking at all.

[Mr OCD]

bass gt3 said:

There should be a single constant 5vdc feed, a chassis/ecu ground and the switched 5vdc back to the ecu. do you have these???

Edited by bass gt3 on Saturday 27th September 15:41

Yep... Three wires from sensor. 5v feed, ground and switched 5v ...

Both 5v and switched 5v are showing 4.6v in any state / condition. I don't think we are going to see trigger state of the switched 5v without the sensor actually being plugged in unless I cut into the wire physically which obviously is far from ideal.