Valve Clearances?
Discussion
My ER5 is getting a bit "tappy" and is due a big service, I'm pretty handy with my tools and normally attempt prettymuch any tasks that need doing myself, But I am yet to try valve clearances, simply as i haven't needed to until now.
How difficult is it? And what is involved? More specifically on a Kawasaki ER500?
How difficult is it? And what is involved? More specifically on a Kawasaki ER500?
Bluehawk said:
My ER5 is getting a bit "tappy" and is due a big service, I'm pretty handy with my tools and normally attempt prettymuch any tasks that need doing myself, But I am yet to try valve clearances, simply as i haven't needed to until now.
How difficult is it? And what is involved? More specifically on a Kawasaki ER500?
This is what I doneHow difficult is it? And what is involved? More specifically on a Kawasaki ER500?
Wait until November, phoned Kawasaki, how much to do clearances
£75 at winter rates ok thank you very much there you go.
It's not too bad to do - the important tool you need is a rubber mallet (to gently pursaude the rocker cover off) and some feeler gauges. Measuring is quite easy (keep trying feeler gauges until you find one that goes through with a wee bit of resistance...the slightly thinner one should pass through and the thicker one from that should be too difficult to push through).
I dontknow if ER5's are cam-over-bucket or rocker arm with a locking nut. Cam-over-bucket is cam-out job to replace shims, but a rocker arm is easily adjusted with a spanner and a screwdriver.
When you have the rocker cover off, be very sure to remove alllll the sealent from the mating faces before you apply fresh sealent. And be careful where the old flakes of sealent go (dont want them blocking up oil galleys) and dont apply fresh stuff like a 5 year old applys PVC glue to everything, just be careful
Some people take out the spark plugs to aid with turning the engine over, but you might not need to do that. If you do, cover up the plug holes with some rag.
I dontknow if ER5's are cam-over-bucket or rocker arm with a locking nut. Cam-over-bucket is cam-out job to replace shims, but a rocker arm is easily adjusted with a spanner and a screwdriver.
When you have the rocker cover off, be very sure to remove alllll the sealent from the mating faces before you apply fresh sealent. And be careful where the old flakes of sealent go (dont want them blocking up oil galleys) and dont apply fresh stuff like a 5 year old applys PVC glue to everything, just be careful
Some people take out the spark plugs to aid with turning the engine over, but you might not need to do that. If you do, cover up the plug holes with some rag.
No experience of that engine, but on the 2 bikes I've done it on (both bucket and shim types) it's been a pretty easy job. The trickiest bit is getting to the point where you can get the rocker cover off (in the case of the TDM it's faring, fuel tank, airbox, throttle bodies, thermostat and radiator off to get at it). Once you're in you can check the clearance without having to take the cams off, but need to remove the cam to change a shim. So long as you don't put it back together a tooth out on the timing (best bet is to mark the chain and gears before you take the cam off) it's pretty easy. You will want a torque wrench to put it back together though as the torque settings on ally heads are pretty low (10 or 12 Nm on mine).
Leave plenty of time for it though as assuming it's bucket and shim it's easiest to measure all the gaps, see what size the existing shims are, and then order some new shims which might take a day or two. Quite a few sellers on e-bay that do them individually for a few quid rather than you buying a massive set.
While you're in there make a note of the sizes of all the shims so next time you know what new shim you need before you take the cams off.
Leave plenty of time for it though as assuming it's bucket and shim it's easiest to measure all the gaps, see what size the existing shims are, and then order some new shims which might take a day or two. Quite a few sellers on e-bay that do them individually for a few quid rather than you buying a massive set.
While you're in there make a note of the sizes of all the shims so next time you know what new shim you need before you take the cams off.
gareth_r said:
Google says that the ER-5 is rockers, screws, and locknuts.
In that case forget most of my post except the bit about getting to the rocker cover and the torque wrench 
Usually the rocker cover seal can be used a few times (it's normally a rubber seal to keep in oil that's not under pressure rather than a gasket), but check for your specific bike.
Tappy is fine, it is when the noise stops because your gaps closed up and the valves burn out you need to worry 
Joking aside, the ER5 uses lock nuts so you don't need to take the cam shaft out although you do need to drain the coolent before taking the cam cover off.
Have a read here http://www.ex-500.com/files/2006_EX500_Valve_Clear...
Joking aside, the ER5 uses lock nuts so you don't need to take the cam shaft out although you do need to drain the coolent before taking the cam cover off.
Have a read here http://www.ex-500.com/files/2006_EX500_Valve_Clear...
On one GSX-R I checked the Clearances at 20k, which were spot on, but stripped 4 threads torqing up the bolts on the engine cover as the valve journals they screw into were made out of cheese.
Current run around GSX-R, 83k miles, never done the clearances, and the engine still runs.
I wouldn't bother.
Current run around GSX-R, 83k miles, never done the clearances, and the engine still runs.
I wouldn't bother.
smack said:
On one GSX-R I checked the Clearances at 20k, which were spot on, but stripped 4 threads torqing up the bolts on the engine cover as the valve journals they screw into were made out of cheese.
Current run around GSX-R, 83k miles, never done the clearances, and the engine still runs.
I wouldn't bother.
Thats kind of my view also. I had mine checked at 23k and all fine.Current run around GSX-R, 83k miles, never done the clearances, and the engine still runs.
I wouldn't bother.
I think if you can feel its not running right then worth doing but otherwise maybe leave as is.
Has anyone here burnt a valve on an engine that isn't very high miles / heavily tracked?
trickywoo said:
Thats kind of my view also. I had mine checked at 23k and all fine.
I think if you can feel its not running right then worth doing but otherwise maybe leave as is.
Has anyone here burnt a valve on an engine that isn't very high miles / heavily tracked?
Yeah but no but...I think if you can feel its not running right then worth doing but otherwise maybe leave as is.
Has anyone here burnt a valve on an engine that isn't very high miles / heavily tracked?
Had one reach the point it wasn't fully closing up (ie negative valve clearance), but I had used and abused it and it was on 78k miles having not checked the clearances since probably 24k.
smack said:
On one GSX-R I checked the Clearances at 20k, which were spot on, but stripped 4 threads torqing up the bolts on the engine cover as the valve journals they screw into were made out of cheese.
Current run around GSX-R, 83k miles, never done the clearances, and the engine still runs.
I wouldn't bother.
That answers by question then - currently on 21k, runs like a dream and no taps. So if it 'ain't broke don't fix it!'Current run around GSX-R, 83k miles, never done the clearances, and the engine still runs.
I wouldn't bother.
smack said:
On one GSX-R I checked the Clearances at 20k, which were spot on, but stripped 4 threads torqing up the bolts on the engine cover as the valve journals they screw into were made out of cheese.
Current run around GSX-R, 83k miles, never done the clearances, and the engine still runs.
I wouldn't bother.
How many times have we had this conversation oh owner of the oil burning GSX-R which also produces strange smells out of the exhaust bad enough to make people riding behind it feel sick.Current run around GSX-R, 83k miles, never done the clearances, and the engine still runs.
I wouldn't bother.
But hey it still runs
dern said:
rat840771 said:
That answers by question then - currently on 21k, runs like a dream and no taps. So if it 'ain't broke don't fix it!'
On that basis you may as well not do any preventative maintenance and only attempt to fix it when it's f
ked. You'll save a fortune on oil.Correct me if I am wrong - if there is no evidence of tapping, the bike burns no oil and is still clear (ish) and a good colour after 2000 miles - surely this must say something about the condition of the engine/bike. I will change the oil soon but I don't intend to have the valves checked - unless I am convinced otherwise.
Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff