Replacing Lambda sensor on Street Triple

[croyde]

After coming back from the service centre £500 lighter but still with my engine management light on as the bike needs a new Lambda Sensor and they didn't have one in stock, I am keen to do this myself.

Seen some 2nd hand sensors for £20 as opposed to £70 + VAT new plus labour.

Is it an easy job and how do I do it? Tried on-line but a lot of talk but no videos of people doing it themselves.

I must say that the service bill was split £300 for service and £200 for a new ignition barrel as it was nicked back in March.

Cheers.

[bass gt3]

It couldn't be simpler.

22mm spanner usually required to undo the sensor. Trace the wiring back to the connector, then disconnect and remove.
Installation is the reverse but before you put the sensor into the pipe, turn the ignition on so that it's ready to start but DO NOT start it.
Leave it like this for 2 or 3 minutes to allow it to do a free air calibration. After a few minutes switch off and install the sensor into the exhaust, secure the cable and connector, replace any bodywork that might of been removed to access the sensor/wiring or connector and enjoy.

[TimmyWimmyWoo]

It is really easy - broke mine when putting the Arrow exhaust on. Bought a secondhand ebay one and thought it was also knackered because the EML was still on - it takes three heat cycles IIRC to clear the EML. On my third ride there was no EML. Didn't do the turning ignition on step that Mr Bass mentions, but I'm an oaf!

ETA: this is a bit of history for the PHer (I forget who!) who now owns my old Street in France somewhere. Chap with a yellow Aston.

[bass gt3]

TimmyWimmyWoo said:

Really easy - broke mine when putting the Arrow exhaust on. Bought a secondhand ebay one and thought it was also knackered because the EML was still on - it takes three heat cycles IIRC to clear the EML. On my third ride there was no EML. Didn't do the turning ignition on step that Mr Bass mentions, but I'm an oaf!

Only reason for the on without running thingy is some systems like to have a free air calibration set up prior to use. but if you say the CEL goes out after 3(ish) heat cycles, then thats the Trumpet system method of self calibration.
Good info!

[croyde]

Any step by step instructions chaps. I don't even know where the bloomin' thing is What do I have to take off the bike in order to access the sensor and the connection?

Cheers.

[TimmyWimmyWoo]

It's on the right-hand side of the bike underneath the engine, on the exhaust pipe where the belly pan is if you have one. You need to take the belly pan off (if I remember correctly) if you have one. It's the metal plug on the exhaust with a wire coming from it – it's the only one so shouldn't be hard to find!

ETA it's where the blackened hole is on this photo just after the three header pipes converge (the lambda sensor has been removed in this pic!)

[bass gt3]

It's probably at the 3 into 1 exhaust collector so that'll require the belly pan being removed. Although bfore you do, check thepipe as it rises fromunder the bike towards theback,makesure it's not there. Doubtful as it's probably too far fromthe enginebutyounever know.
If not, drop the belly panand you should see it straight away. Proceed as above from there.
Don't be worrying, it's easy peasy, just start by taking pics if you're unsure and workmethodically from there

[croyde]

Thanks chaps. No belly pan on mine. I presume the connector is under the tank?

[TimmyWimmyWoo]

I don't actually think it is – I replaced mine within three months of getting my first bike and I certainly never lifted the tank on that bike! I think there's a connector that you can get to without lifting the tank.

[Mr2Mike]

Second hand oxygen sensors are a complete waste of money IMO. It might have been working before it was removed, but they can be damaged especially if they were very tight to get out. These sensors also degrade with use (response time slows time), so it's not like they either work or they don't, an aged sensor might not throw a MIL light but can still cause hesitation and surging.

[croyde]

Thanks Timmy. Just had a look and there is a small heat shield to unbolt to get to the sensor and the wire is fed up on the outside of the engine to a connector just under the tank which I can get to without removing anything.

Might have to take Mike's advice and not buy a secondhand one.

[Mr2Mike]

croyde said:

Thanks Timmy. Just had a look and there is a small heat shield to unbolt to get to the sensor and the wire is fed up on the outside of the engine to a connector just under the tank which I can get to without removing anything.

Might have to take Mike's advice and not buy a secondhand one.

If you can get the part number you may be able to buy a quality Bosch or NGK/NTK after-market part that is just as good as the original. The cheap unbranded sensors are best avoided.

There's an original, unused sensor on eBay for £35.

[bass gt3]

Mr2Mike said:

If you can get the part number you may be able to buy a quality Bosch or NGK/NTK after-market part that is just as good as the original. The cheap unbranded sensors are best avoided.

There's an original, unused sensor on eBay for £35.

be very careful fitting a different make/model sensor from the original. Not all sensors are the same and their AFR voltage outputs do vary. This would cause your ECU to retune either too rich or too lean which isn't a good thing.
Get the correct sensor brand new and you'll be fine

[Mr2Mike]

bass gt3 said:

be very careful fitting a different make/model sensor from the original. Not all sensors are the same and their AFR voltage outputs do vary. This would cause your ECU to retune either too rich or too lean which isn't a good thing.
Get the correct sensor brand new and you'll be fine

The OP said he has a Street Triple and I linked to an original equipment sensor for a Street Triple?

I wasn't suggesting he use universal sensors by the way, you can buy direct equivalents made by NTK etc.

[bass gt3]

Mr2Mike said:

bass gt3 said:

be very careful fitting a different make/model sensor from the original. Not all sensors are the same and their AFR voltage outputs do vary. This would cause your ECU to retune either too rich or too lean which isn't a good thing.
Get the correct sensor brand new and you'll be fine

The OP said he has a Street Triple and I linked to an original equipment sensor for a Street Triple?

I wasn't suggesting he use universal sensors by the way, you can buy direct equivalents made by NTK etc.

Don't stress just wanted to make sure the OP didin't think a lambda is a lambda is a lambda. I didn't actually notice the link either.

Carry on!

[Mr2Mike]

Just checked and lambdasensor.co.uk list bike applications now. Not hugely cheap, but probably rather less than a dealer would charge.

[croyde]

Now a cheaper option that I have seen on eBay are lambda sensor eliminators. These come with a threaded plus for the hole in the exhaust and a small gubbins that plugs into the now vacant sensor connector.

They claim to allow the bike to run better as it is not governed by emission restrictions.

Anyone used these? and will I be inviting trouble come MOT and/or service time?

Ta.

[Hooli]

croyde said:

Now a cheaper option that I have seen on eBay are lambda sensor eliminators. These come with a threaded plus for the hole in the exhaust and a small gubbins that plugs into the now vacant sensor connector.

They claim to allow the bike to run better as it is not governed by emission restrictions.

Anyone used these? and will I be inviting trouble come MOT and/or service time?

Ta.

Can't see the point unless you're fitting a PC3 as active lambas stop them working right.