Fireblade 2008/2009
Discussion
Mr OCD said:
bass gt3 said:
Don't forget that if you've been riding something like the R1 for a while, the slightly different ergo's of another bike may tweek muscles that weren't stretched as much before.
As for the low down fuelling, what rpm range are you talking about?? And remember that it may be set like that for the ever changing noise/emissions regs and a simple PCV should sort it.
And a pipe and a gearing change
Agreed, which is why I'm trying to get more mileage in the seat... I've so far done around 400 miles so not a great deal yet. It doesn't help the weather is a bit sAs for the low down fuelling, what rpm range are you talking about?? And remember that it may be set like that for the ever changing noise/emissions regs and a simple PCV should sort it.
And a pipe and a gearing change
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Low down fueling on small throttle openings ... rolling on - off the throttle is brutal ... tends to be in the range of 2000-4000rpm where I will be doing 20-30mph in 2nd filtering through heavy traffic.
Pipe and gearing change will have to wait for a bit but happy to sort PCV if it is going to resolve the issue. That's the only real thing griping me with the bike... I forgive her though when I get off and look back over my shoulder...
bass gt3 said:
If you're doing the PCV but keeping the standard pipe, you can afford 20 quid for a smaller front sprocket. Even if you leave it as a 530 it really improves the bike. Gotta ask as well, are you just rolling the throttle when you filter or using the clutch to soften the transitions?? Sounds to me like you just potter along in 2nd and open/close the gas as required?? Use the clutch to soften the take up. it's there for a reason
Indeed I can ... I might just do that but don't I need a speedo healer which is another £95? 
I don't ride the bike any differently to the R1... only using the clutch in 1st really... rarely 2nd gear.
Mr OCD said:
bass gt3 said:
If you're doing the PCV but keeping the standard pipe, you can afford 20 quid for a smaller front sprocket. Even if you leave it as a 530 it really improves the bike. Gotta ask as well, are you just rolling the throttle when you filter or using the clutch to soften the transitions?? Sounds to me like you just potter along in 2nd and open/close the gas as required?? Use the clutch to soften the take up. it's there for a reason
Indeed I can ... I might just do that but don't I need a speedo healer which is another £95? I don't ride the bike any differently to the R1... only using the clutch in 1st really... rarely 2nd gear.
Def go with the -1 even in 530, it really makes the low end 100% better. I used to commute through JHB traffic on mine with no issues but you might find without using a soft touch or clutch, what you think is a fuelling issue is actually the motor and transmission/drive train lash being taken up as you crack on the throttle. Remember the you're asking the motor to come off what is basically idle and an unloaded transmission in 2nd at low speed. Not many bikes feel so great at that moment of throttle opening until the drive is taken up. And given that on normal gearing, 1st runs out to nearly 100mph, are you sure 2nd is the ideal gear?? Might of been fine on the R1, but this isn't the R1, so maybe a small amount of rider adjustment is required??
Edited by bass gt3 on Monday 17th November 14:48
bass gt3 said:
No need for the healer. Whatever the current gearing ratio is, it'll drop your indicated speed by the change in ratio. So you'll actually be safer as you'll be under reading a little more.
Def go with the -1 even in 530, it really makes the low end 100% better. I used to commute through JHB traffic on mine with no issues but you might find without using a soft touch or clutch, what you think is a fuelling issue is actually the motor and transmission/drive train lash being taken up as you crack on the throttle. Remember the you're asking the motor to come off what is basically idle and an unloaded transmission in 2nd at low speed. Not many bikes feel so great at that moment of throttle opening until the drive is taken up. And given that on normal gearing, 1st runs out to nearly 100mph, are you sure 2nd is the ideal gear?? Might of been fine on the R1, but this isn't the R1, so maybe a small amount of rider adjustment is required??
Excellent... best order that front sprocket then... what is the standard gearing?Def go with the -1 even in 530, it really makes the low end 100% better. I used to commute through JHB traffic on mine with no issues but you might find without using a soft touch or clutch, what you think is a fuelling issue is actually the motor and transmission/drive train lash being taken up as you crack on the throttle. Remember the you're asking the motor to come off what is basically idle and an unloaded transmission in 2nd at low speed. Not many bikes feel so great at that moment of throttle opening until the drive is taken up. And given that on normal gearing, 1st runs out to nearly 100mph, are you sure 2nd is the ideal gear?? Might of been fine on the R1, but this isn't the R1, so maybe a small amount of rider adjustment is required??
Edited by bass gt3 on Monday 17th November 14:48
It is certainly possible so will keep that in mind ... the R1 had tall gearing as well hence didn't think much of it but this bike has a lot more torque lower down so may have something to do with it.
Mr OCD said:
Excellent... best order that front sprocket then... what is the standard gearing?
It is certainly possible so will keep that in mind ... the R1 had tall gearing as well hence didn't think much of it but this bike has a lot more torque lower down so may have something to do with it.
Not sure, maybe have a count up when you get home It is certainly possible so will keep that in mind ... the R1 had tall gearing as well hence didn't think much of it but this bike has a lot more torque lower down so may have something to do with it.
I think the front is a 15 but I remember mine would pull to 158kph in 1st on the limiter and run out to over the indicated limit of 299 so dropping one off the front won't hurt.
But the later model like BN's was much improved in that region, but it's easy to sort the earlier models to be as nice.
In fact I would say do the -1 first before you invest in a PCV and make a small adjustment to your riding insofar as use a soft clutch to damp the drive lash in 2nd at low rpm. You might find that sorts your issues before you start investing in power commanders etc
Edited by bass gt3 on Monday 17th November 15:05
bass gt3 said:
Not sure, maybe have a count up when you get home
I think the front is a 15 but I remember mine would pull to 158kph in 1st on the limiter and run out to over the indicated limit of 299 so dropping one off the front won't hurt.
But the later model like BN's was much improved in that region, but it's easy to sort the earlier models to be as nice.
In fact I would say do the -1 first before you invest in a PCV and make a small adjustment to your riding insofar as use a soft clutch to damp the drive lash in 2nd at low rpm. You might find that sorts your issues before you start investing in power commanders etc
Checked online... it's 16 / 42 ... I think the front is a 15 but I remember mine would pull to 158kph in 1st on the limiter and run out to over the indicated limit of 299 so dropping one off the front won't hurt.
But the later model like BN's was much improved in that region, but it's easy to sort the earlier models to be as nice.
In fact I would say do the -1 first before you invest in a PCV and make a small adjustment to your riding insofar as use a soft clutch to damp the drive lash in 2nd at low rpm. You might find that sorts your issues before you start investing in power commanders etc
Edited by bass gt3 on Monday 17th November 15:05
Good idea... off to find a 15T
Biker's Nemesis said:
Stick with a standard Honda front sprocket as it has the rubber damper which makes the bike feel smother/quieter.
Renthall rear sprockets always look good on the rear
Not a bad idea, forgot about the damper in the front. So look to a 44 or a 45 for the rear. standard gearing final drive is 2.625:1 and a 15T front will give you a 2.8:1Renthall rear sprockets always look good on the rear
a 44 rear will be 2.75:1 and a 45 will be 2.8125:1
Only thing is to make sure the chain will take a bigger rear sprocket up to say 45T
Edited by bass gt3 on Monday 17th November 15:23
bass gt3 said:
So only a 6.25% change in gearing.
To put it in context, I run my RSV4 at 3:1 on the road. Gives a top speed of about 168mph but make sit sooo much more fun to ride
Aye... that is what I had on the R1 ... speedo was way out though as they over read by nearly 10% as standard verified by GPS! To put it in context, I run my RSV4 at 3:1 on the road. Gives a top speed of about 168mph but make sit sooo much more fun to ride
Mr OCD said:
bass gt3 said:
So only a 6.25% change in gearing.
To put it in context, I run my RSV4 at 3:1 on the road. Gives a top speed of about 168mph but make sit sooo much more fun to ride
Aye... that is what I had on the R1 ... speedo was way out though as they over read by nearly 10% as standard verified by GPS! To put it in context, I run my RSV4 at 3:1 on the road. Gives a top speed of about 168mph but make sit sooo much more fun to ride
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