Honda VRX400 1995 "barn find" restoration

Honda VRX400 1995 "barn find" restoration

Author
Discussion

evil len

Original Poster:

4,398 posts

268 months

Wednesday 5th November 2014
quotequote all
Evening all. So, surrounded by 3 bikes all less than a year old, I've been itching to get something to tinker on and restore. I used to do a lot of classic car restoration, but know relatively little about bikes (apart from the obvious stuff that transfers across) so wanted something I could take apart, restore, and learn as part of that process.

Been looking on ebay for months for something cheap and suitable, but nothing took my fancy. Couple of weekends ago I was up at Pidcock Triumph picking up my new Tiger 800 (that's going to be my winter bike and touring bike next year) and a van pulled up ... in the back was two non runner bikes, an old Suzuki 250 of some sort, and the Honda at the back. These had been part chopped to Pidcock as part of the purchase of another bike, and I overheard the salesman muttering something about dumping them on a local collage for the students to work on (aka, knacker).

As they started dragging the Honda out, I not only realised it's exactly what I was looking for (and I really liked its looks) ... but the last 3 letters of the registration are my initials ! Got to be fate, surely ? Asked the salesman how much he wanted, he pottered off and came back with £200 ... I almost bit his hand off ! Add in £20 for delivery 30 miles away, and an hour later it was sat in my garage ! (good service)

It's a 1995 VRX400 with 39k km on the clock ... these were never sold in the UK, it was imported in 1997 looking at the V5. Came with both keys, the documents, and is utterly standard and complete. A bag of nails, but complete none the less ! It was last taxed in 2009, so I think it's been sat around in the damp since.

The Good
Very original and complete, everything is there
All the chromework and steelwork is straight
The engine turns over, coolant looks clear ... but it had little or no oil in it, strangely

The Bad
Chrome and paint needs doing
All alloy components incl engine are furred (probably will polish out?)
Exhaust rotten
Fork leaking
Swing arm is rusty underneath (but I think it's solid)
Brakes frozen
Rear wheel has a honking great smash in the rim, which is crumbling away ... this is my guess as to why it was taken off the road (big pot hole ?)





















The other side of this, the exhaust is actually rotten and a lot worse than it looks here ... the mounting bracket has ripped off through a rusty hole.





Pity there's a hole in the seat ... easily recovered I guess




evil len

Original Poster:

4,398 posts

268 months

Wednesday 5th November 2014
quotequote all
After a quick jet wash and a gallon of degreaser it actually doesn't look that bad ! From a distance. DO NOT BE DECEIVED, it's a lot worse than the photos show ...





The air filter cover is actually plastic ... can you get plastic rechromed ? (probably not)






evil len

Original Poster:

4,398 posts

268 months

Wednesday 5th November 2014
quotequote all
I'm in two minds with this bike ...

a) do I completely strip and restore the bike ?
b) do I get her running again, on the road, and restore piece meal each "section" ... maybe with a final strip down to restore the frame (which is in remarkably good condition actually)

And do I ...

1) keep her completely standard
2) customise her to my tastes.

Currently I'm thinking 'b' and '1', especially as this is a relatively rare bike in the UK

I managed to get hold of what is apparently the last silencer in the UK ... dont exactly need it right now, but hey, if it's the last one better get it now.


evil len

Original Poster:

4,398 posts

268 months

Wednesday 5th November 2014
quotequote all
Oh, back to the exhaust, you can get one of the downpipes but not the other. I think I can rechrome them though.

You can see here how knackered the rear wheel is. Wheels are not available, so I'm going to have to get it rebuilt from the hub ... not cheap ! And if I do one, I'll have to do the other to match, of course ...

It's really funny how the wheel has gone ... it's like when fibreglass delaminates, strange.


Private Pile

754 posts

194 months

Wednesday 5th November 2014
quotequote all
Looking forward to reading this. I'd go for b 2.

bgunn

1,416 posts

130 months

Thursday 6th November 2014
quotequote all
I'd say a 2 myself - but it depends upon what you want from the bike - a toy to play with for weeks and months and years whilst 'on the road', or something to dismantle completely, make perfect, and then put back together in a nice clean/tidy environment. Working on a bike (or car) piecemeal as a running resto is fun, but you can end up doing jobs twice..

Piersman2

6,596 posts

198 months

Thursday 6th November 2014
quotequote all
evil len said:
It's really funny how the wheel has gone ... it's like when fibreglass delaminates, strange.
My Boxster wheels nuts were going the same way. I assume it's where the coating had been damaged and alloy corrosion had started to turn the alloy into flakes that could be broken up with a finger nail.

mister_ee

347 posts

181 months

Thursday 6th November 2014
quotequote all
I believe the VRX engine is based on the 400 Bros (barrels look a lot more finned ) so you may be able to use bits from 400-650 Bros/650 Hawk/600-650Revere engines

evil len

Original Poster:

4,398 posts

268 months

Thursday 6th November 2014
quotequote all
mister_ee said:
I believe the VRX engine is based on the 400 Bros (barrels look a lot more finned ) so you may be able to use bits from 400-650 Bros/650 Hawk/600-650Revere engines
Any help like this gratefully accepted ! There's not much information on the VRX (full name VRX400 Roadster by the way) on the net, and obviously even less in English ! I'm piecing together bits and bobs, but it's going to be a challenge (that I'll enjoy).

I think I'm going to keep the bike whole, but then do a final strip down at the end.

Speed addicted

5,561 posts

226 months

Thursday 6th November 2014
quotequote all
I'd do the basics before firing it up to make sure it's not off the road because of a failed engine or something else major, then do the full strip down and resto.
It's the best way to ensure you catch everything that's wrong and don't do lots of things twice. Just take lots of pictures as you take it apart!

abarber

1,686 posts

240 months

Thursday 6th November 2014
quotequote all
Nice project.

Have a look here: http://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=1001...

I would put some fluids in and try and get that engine started. If it's knackered, switch the engine. Or perhaps consider something that is more collectable / worth more when restored.

It looks as though it's the same engine as a 400 Steed, so a 600 Steed / Shadow / whatever else they called 'em, will fit.

Good luck!

evil len

Original Poster:

4,398 posts

268 months

Thursday 6th November 2014
quotequote all
SHE LIVES !

Drained the fuel tank ... once I realised that the fuel tap is vacuum driven (presumably a safety feature, the engine has to be running before fuel comes out) ... I guess I could have removed the tank and tipped it upside down, it would have been easier, but in the end I just sat there sucking on the vacuum pipe till the tank emptied into an old can, lol. Fuel didn't look too bad/old/gunky, so I put a fresh gallon in.

The battery is fubar'd of course, so I connected it up to the wife's Astravan (don't tell her !). At first ... nothing. Then I found that a 30a fuse had blown in some kind of main "power block" off the main +ve power cable, replaced that and we had lights.

And blow me, after a few churns she started !

Apologies for the crap audio, I got a setting wrong on the drift. If you can't be arsed to listen to me waffle faintly, skip to 1:15

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkLvVqPdPWg

Preskipped to 1:15 :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkLvVqPdPWg#t=78

So she's running, and seems to run okay ... no noticeable smoke, which is a start. Didn't want to run above idle though, not sure what's wrong there. Was going to whip the sparks out, but it seems to need a thin walled 18mm plug socket, and nothing I've got fits, which is a pain.

Didn't run for long, as I wanted to see if she was sick or anything adverse happened. At the weekend I'm going to run her for a lot longer, see if that helps smooth things out. Also I'll try all the lights and switches and run up/down the gears on paddock stands ... something I forgot to do in my excitement !

QUESTIONS :
- Do these need leaded additives in the fuel do you think ?
- Apart from cleaning up the plugs, putting redex in the fuel and giving her a good run, any other tips on what could cause the non-revving ?

Yazza54

18,464 posts

180 months

Thursday 6th November 2014
quotequote all
You don't sound that evil

Splitpin2008

195 posts

148 months

Thursday 6th November 2014
quotequote all
Does it have Vacuum carbs?
if so split diaphragms?

bgunn

1,416 posts

130 months

Friday 7th November 2014
quotequote all
Highly unlikely to need additives - it'll have hardened inserts for the valve seats - they all do.

I suspect it won't rev because the jets will be full of gunge from standing around for ages, petrol gets very silty when left (should have seen the carbs on my Viffer when I stripped them!)

peteO

1,790 posts

184 months

Friday 7th November 2014
quotequote all
evil len said:
The air filter cover is actually plastic ... can you get plastic rechromed ? (probably not)
you can get chrome spray paint. never used it myself mind. or you can get them plasticote dipped or vinyl wrapped

look forward to more updates!

Edited by peteO on Friday 7th November 11:45


Edited by peteO on Friday 7th November 11:46

evil len

Original Poster:

4,398 posts

268 months

Friday 7th November 2014
quotequote all
I popped the fuel tank and air filter off to have a nose about. It's dirty, but in pretty good condition behind there ... the frame's like new under the tank.







There's one water hose that's on the verge of rubbing through ...


evil len

Original Poster:

4,398 posts

268 months

Saturday 8th November 2014
quotequote all
So I've had her (now named, originally, by my wife "Rhonda") running for longer. Fired up straight away, let her run for about 25 minutes. Things did settle down a lot more, even idling okay with no choke eventually. Still wont rev above 5k rpm though. I've ordered a thin walled 18mm plug spanner off ebay, and I think I'm going to look at the exhaust next as that's blowing like mad, which is probably not helping the engine.

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

254 months

Saturday 8th November 2014
quotequote all
evil len said:
So I've had her (now named, originally, by my wife "Rhonda") running for longer. Fired up straight away, let her run for about 25 minutes. Things did settle down a lot more, even idling okay with no choke eventually. Still wont rev above 5k rpm though. I've ordered a thin walled 18mm plug spanner off ebay, and I think I'm going to look at the exhaust next as that's blowing like mad, which is probably not helping the engine.
A leaking exhaust won't prevent the engine revving properly. Those carbs are going to need to be stripped down sooner or later!

It's a very strong looking frame, don't think I've seen a 400cc bike using frame tubes that large before.

evil len

Original Poster:

4,398 posts

268 months

Saturday 8th November 2014
quotequote all
Mr2Mike said:
Those carbs are going to need to be stripped down sooner or later!
Aye ! It's on the list ...

So, I thought I'd have a play with the exhaust anyway. Not exactly top of the list priority wise, but, hey, you know what its like ... you start fiddling with something, and before you know it ...

There's three chrome shields over the exhaust pipes held on with button head bolts ... all firmly and truly rusted on. In the end I had to drill the heads off, meaning I then had to drill and retap (6mm) the mounting holes.

All went swimmingly with the first two ... not bad at all really, considering it's about 35 years since the last time I tapped a hole.



Then on the last (why is it always the last ?) hole I snapped the tap. Doh.



After reading up online about the various ways to remove a tap, I don't have an MDM, nor a specialist drill bit, there was no stub to grab, it was too small to drill and extract, tapping with a punch in a circle didnt work ... so I settled for the time honoured method of bashing the st out of it with a punch and large hammer (luckily the hole was all the way through).

Amazingly it worked ! Amazingly I was actually able to retap the hole fine ! Amazingly I only hit my left hand hard once with the big hammer !

By the way, the down pipes look very rusty at the ends, but they are actually very solid, and will rechrome. You can't get one pipe (no longer available), and the other downpipe is £220+ so I'm not going to buy new ones. And the worst rusted areas are behind the shields and out of sight anyway (if the chrome ends up not totally smooth)



Remember that back box that didn't look too bad from the other side ?





... rotten as a pear. Didn't want to come off, either ...