Fast pull away, no wheelie
Discussion
ks.
bass gt3 said:
Firstly, know at what revs the engine makes max torque. Then rev it out in 1st doing what McKean eays by keeping your weight forward. Then change gear so you always stay in the rpm range above max torque Now as the revs rise to redline the torque is decreasing so it won't wheelie. Revving through 1st is the trickiest bit and might need a bit of weight and rear brake to counteract the front coming up. The fastest is with the front 2 or 3 inches up like a dragster.
More worrying is your set up logic. How do you work out that setting the front forks as stiff as a broomstick and then lowering them in the triple clamps compensates for it?????? The two have nothing to do with each other and setting the forks.so stiff will encourage the front to lift as there's no compliance in the front. If they are maxxed out they're like pogo sticks pushing the bike up to much and making the wheelies worse. trying to put more weight over the front will do nothing. then softening the back will encourage squat and a big weight transfer to the rear. can you guess what happens next? ?
Also consider the chain tension. if it's a bit tight it will bind the rear suspension at the end of its travel and make the rear effectively solid so the bike will wheelie like a champ.
get the bike properly sprung for your weight and practice your technique.
I thought that, but then considered how little I know about bikes so kept quiet as I thought I'd be wrong. Seems I do know something after all More worrying is your set up logic. How do you work out that setting the front forks as stiff as a broomstick and then lowering them in the triple clamps compensates for it?????? The two have nothing to do with each other and setting the forks.so stiff will encourage the front to lift as there's no compliance in the front. If they are maxxed out they're like pogo sticks pushing the bike up to much and making the wheelies worse. trying to put more weight over the front will do nothing. then softening the back will encourage squat and a big weight transfer to the rear. can you guess what happens next? ?
Also consider the chain tension. if it's a bit tight it will bind the rear suspension at the end of its travel and make the rear effectively solid so the bike will wheelie like a champ.
get the bike properly sprung for your weight and practice your technique.
The forks are set firmer as I'm 95kgs. Any softer and they dive too much when braking.
The back has plenty of travel left and also now has good traction for fast getaways.
Lowering the forks in the yokes got the ride height right with headlamp aim.
It stops well, corners well, hooks up well. It's just me expecting too much! And I'd like to learn how to control it. I like the idea of keeping it above max torque though, makes sense.,as does using B mode.
The back has plenty of travel left and also now has good traction for fast getaways.
Lowering the forks in the yokes got the ride height right with headlamp aim.
It stops well, corners well, hooks up well. It's just me expecting too much! And I'd like to learn how to control it. I like the idea of keeping it above max torque though, makes sense.,as does using B mode.
HertsBiker said:
The forks are set firmer as I'm 95kgs. Any softer and they dive too much when braking.
See that's what the compression valving is for. You're using one fork property or parameter to compensate for another being inadequate. You must understand that spring weight, compression and rebound are distinct entities. The preload should be set to give you he right sag end of. The compression should be set to stop excessive impacts from bottoming out the forks and rebound should be set to keep the wheel in contact with the road as much as possible. They're not interchangeable.If you really love the bike, treat it (and yourself) to the right springs for your weight and maybe a decent valve kit and really enjoy it. You've spent a lot of money on it, make the most of it
And lowering the forks as a way of adjusting the headlight?? Really??? Surely the headlight has it's own in built adjuster that doesn't require changing the geometry of the bike to work.
Get the right springs, reset the fork heights and ask the dealer where the bean adjustment screws are....
Edited by bass gt3 on Saturday 22 November 16:41
TimmyWimmyWoo said:
Yep – the BB is a long old barge. I've had some fairly big (for a non-wheelying noob) power wheelies, but only by provoking it (ie off the throttle in first, then hard back on it – it comes up veeeery smoothly).
VFR is similar, 170bhp but has to be provoked to get the wheel off the ground. Just wants to go forward. Wheelbase is everything apparently .
"but I cannot see how to do 2.7 seconds to 60.
Under 4 seconds is easy. Better than that is hard!"
This is the law of diminishing returns. The guys who do sub 3 second 0 -60 times are pro's this is what they do for a living where as we are just mere mortals. You will also probably find that even pro's would only succeed 1 in 5 times of attempting this. Its a fine line of throttle control/clutch slip/weight balance and grip.
Under 4 seconds is easy. Better than that is hard!"
This is the law of diminishing returns. The guys who do sub 3 second 0 -60 times are pro's this is what they do for a living where as we are just mere mortals. You will also probably find that even pro's would only succeed 1 in 5 times of attempting this. Its a fine line of throttle control/clutch slip/weight balance and grip.
My 55 plate R1 is difficult to wheely and i am glad in a way,as some of my friends really find it difficult to keep their bikes down,mine has the cat and the exup removed and custom mapped too suit,so you just pin it and go,it does try to come up sometimes especially hitting a rut in the road on acceleration.
Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff