Buying a sportsbike for winter commute
Discussion
As above guys, I'm thinking of buying a thou and using it for the daily commute. Around 40 miles per day. Is this a recipe for disaster when the really cold weather hits or would it be ok. I'm thinking ice and me being used to a 600 in the summer. This would be my only transport also. Advice please.
Should be fine. Heated grips and less sporty tyres and away you go.
Just keep on top of ACF50/F365/WD40 otherwise it will rot.
The previous owner of my 600RR had commuted in winter and i'm now in the process of replacing all of the parts that suffered. Current list is full exhaust (headers rotted), swingarm (powdercoating fallen off), hangers (all pitted), brake lines (banjos rusty), rear shock (completely rusty and ruined), fasteners, plus various bits-n-pieces to take it back to mint condition.
The prev owner had already replaced all of the brake discs, radiator and fork seals.
It's going to cost me about a grand on top of that to get it right again. I will make a loss on it, but it's been fun!
I used to commute all year round, and despite my best efforts each bike got ruined over two or more winters. Not massively ruined (like the RR i'm restoring), but just enough for me to be ashamed rocking up to a bike dealer on a sunny sunday in summer!
Edit to add: if you're used to a 600 then maybe a litre bike in winter might not be the best idea. The increase in torque is quite massive and it's that that's likely to get you into trouble. Saying that, i've commuted in winters on a thunderace, blackbird, bandit 1250 without a problem.
Just keep on top of ACF50/F365/WD40 otherwise it will rot.
The previous owner of my 600RR had commuted in winter and i'm now in the process of replacing all of the parts that suffered. Current list is full exhaust (headers rotted), swingarm (powdercoating fallen off), hangers (all pitted), brake lines (banjos rusty), rear shock (completely rusty and ruined), fasteners, plus various bits-n-pieces to take it back to mint condition.
The prev owner had already replaced all of the brake discs, radiator and fork seals.
It's going to cost me about a grand on top of that to get it right again. I will make a loss on it, but it's been fun!
I used to commute all year round, and despite my best efforts each bike got ruined over two or more winters. Not massively ruined (like the RR i'm restoring), but just enough for me to be ashamed rocking up to a bike dealer on a sunny sunday in summer!
Edit to add: if you're used to a 600 then maybe a litre bike in winter might not be the best idea. The increase in torque is quite massive and it's that that's likely to get you into trouble. Saying that, i've commuted in winters on a thunderace, blackbird, bandit 1250 without a problem.
Edited by dapearson on Tuesday 25th November 10:31
alan36 said:
As above guys, I'm thinking of buying a thou and using it for the daily commute. Around 40 miles per day. Is this a recipe for disaster when the really cold weather hits or would it be ok. I'm thinking ice and me being used to a 600 in the summer. This would be my only transport also. Advice please.
I've been doing it for over 5yrs now ... it's not really an issue. When the ice / snow are out then leave it parked in the garage... my que is if I can't ride down my driveway or I see ice on the pavement / road out front then I don't bother. For the last few years the worst of the weather has meant a maximum of two weeks not riding over winter... last year was very mild and I rode right through it. Apparently the same is due this year... we are nearly into December and the roads haven't even been gritted here... alan36 said:
Thats my problem really, the few weeks of really bad weather. Like I said it will be my on transport as I cant even get buses or trains to my work.
When it's REALLY bad with ice and snow i'd say don't ride. I'm sure plenty do, but it's not worth it IMO. We normally only have severe weather for a month.If the roads near you are main roads and well treated then you can probably get by. I've done that before when i lived 100 metres from a main road. The bike will suffer though. Once home you can clean it off and treat it, but during the day at work it will be sitting there being eaten alive!
I went out in the snow once, won't do that again...
As above, decent set of tyres makes a lot of difference. There's a lot of love here for the Michelin Pilot Road for commuting, and deservedly so.
If you still need to buy I would advise on ABS for commuting though. When the inevitable "scare" happens, you can just grab a handful of brakes and the system will keep you upright while minimising your stopping distance.
As above, decent set of tyres makes a lot of difference. There's a lot of love here for the Michelin Pilot Road for commuting, and deservedly so.
If you still need to buy I would advise on ABS for commuting though. When the inevitable "scare" happens, you can just grab a handful of brakes and the system will keep you upright while minimising your stopping distance.
heated grips wired in via a relay - I use symtec ones, which are just heating elements that go under the existing grips. Proving very reliable so far, more so than oxford ones I've had.
Fit sports-touring tyres, these are designed to work over a wider range of temps than a more dedicated sports tyre.
Clean your brake calipers up before and after winter...caliper off, pins, pads and anti-rattle bits all out. Working one piston a time (or maybe two but on the same side) gently pump out the piston(s) until shiny metal is showing. Clean with brake cleaner, then a little bit of something lightly abrasive (but not very!) until the whole of the visible piston is clean. Bit more brake cleaner. apply a smear of red rubber grease (vegetable oil / fat based grease, not petroleum based grease) around the whole piston, then squeeze the piston back in to the caliper with waterpump pliers (use something on the piston face and caliper face to protect the surfaces). Do this for all pistons. Clean the pads and pins and anti-rattle shims with brake cleaner and apply anti-seize compounds to the faces which come into contact with other parts, and all over the pins so nothing seizes.
The biggest issue with winter is corrosion of parts, and if your calipers suffer corrosion, they can stick. It's been my biggest thing to keep on top of, in addition to keeping the chain well lubricated - application of lubricant every tank of fuel is a good idea.
ACF50 on all parts except brake discs should help with further corrosion prevention as well.
Dont forget to rinse through the rad often, not just from the front but also from the back.
Fit sports-touring tyres, these are designed to work over a wider range of temps than a more dedicated sports tyre.
Clean your brake calipers up before and after winter...caliper off, pins, pads and anti-rattle bits all out. Working one piston a time (or maybe two but on the same side) gently pump out the piston(s) until shiny metal is showing. Clean with brake cleaner, then a little bit of something lightly abrasive (but not very!) until the whole of the visible piston is clean. Bit more brake cleaner. apply a smear of red rubber grease (vegetable oil / fat based grease, not petroleum based grease) around the whole piston, then squeeze the piston back in to the caliper with waterpump pliers (use something on the piston face and caliper face to protect the surfaces). Do this for all pistons. Clean the pads and pins and anti-rattle shims with brake cleaner and apply anti-seize compounds to the faces which come into contact with other parts, and all over the pins so nothing seizes.
The biggest issue with winter is corrosion of parts, and if your calipers suffer corrosion, they can stick. It's been my biggest thing to keep on top of, in addition to keeping the chain well lubricated - application of lubricant every tank of fuel is a good idea.
ACF50 on all parts except brake discs should help with further corrosion prevention as well.
Dont forget to rinse through the rad often, not just from the front but also from the back.
Mastodon2 said:
I can think of nothing worse than trying to ride a litre bike on an icy morning, that's a recipe for an off.
It's no different from using any bike more than a IL4 600cc... modern IL4 1000cc make their power higher up the rev range these days so are pussy cats under 4000rpm... I'd suggest v-twins would be more tricky although I've no idea as never owned one.A lightweight sportsbike can make good sense if you are prepared to put the effort in to keep it immaculate... they are light and nimble so easy to move around, low and narrow so you can filter easily, good on fuel when not being thrashed and have quality suspension and brakes.
If your commute is 50% back roads then you'll struggle.
Just look at BVG's video of the GSXR green-laning to get an idea of what taking a sports bike out on snow would be like!
Winter does ruin bikes though, especially those with fairings meaning it's hard to get access to keep the metal parts clean.
Here's what a 600RR looks like underneath when the (previous to me) owner used it over winter without looking after it:
Old vs new rad fan:
Headers:
Just look at BVG's video of the GSXR green-laning to get an idea of what taking a sports bike out on snow would be like!
Winter does ruin bikes though, especially those with fairings meaning it's hard to get access to keep the metal parts clean.
Here's what a 600RR looks like underneath when the (previous to me) owner used it over winter without looking after it:
Old vs new rad fan:
Headers:
dapearson said:
If your commute is 50% back roads then you'll struggle.
Just look at BVG's video of the GSXR green-laning to get an idea of what taking a sports bike out on snow would be like!
Winter does ruin bikes though, especially those with fairings meaning it's hard to get access to keep the metal parts clean.
Here's what a 600RR looks like underneath when the (previous to me) owner used it over winter without looking after it:
Old vs new rad fan:
Headers:
Want me to show you what my R1 looked like after two winters and being ridden in salt laden roads... ? Just look at BVG's video of the GSXR green-laning to get an idea of what taking a sports bike out on snow would be like!
Winter does ruin bikes though, especially those with fairings meaning it's hard to get access to keep the metal parts clean.
Here's what a 600RR looks like underneath when the (previous to me) owner used it over winter without looking after it:
Old vs new rad fan:
Headers:
Nothing like that I can assure you ... winter doesn't ruin bikes... neglect and laziness does...
Mr OCD said:
It's no different from using any bike more than a IL4 600cc... modern IL4 1000cc make their power higher up the rev range these days so are pussy cats under 4000rpm... I'd suggest v-twins would be more tricky although I've no idea as never owned one.
A lightweight sportsbike can make good sense if you are prepared to put the effort in to keep it immaculate... they are light and nimble so easy to move around, low and narrow so you can filter easily, good on fuel when not being thrashed and have quality suspension and brakes.
I was thinking more about the tyres letting go due to ice, rather than power.A lightweight sportsbike can make good sense if you are prepared to put the effort in to keep it immaculate... they are light and nimble so easy to move around, low and narrow so you can filter easily, good on fuel when not being thrashed and have quality suspension and brakes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mD3MuL99r9U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z88ocWmHM6U
moanthebairns said:
Go for it, at this rate my winter tyres wont be going on the taxi it has to be the gayest winter on record, God bless I say as they are st.
There's at least 3 months to go yet, according to the radio or TV we (up here) are supposed to get bad weather from tomorrow. (Wednesday)Hooli: Hush.
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