quickshifter help
Discussion
All looks very cool but the real decider will be the accuracy of the load cell.
The cut needs to happen when the selector drum starts to load up as the selector forks begin to move the gears. If the sensor can accurately detect this moment then it could be a very neat unit. If not then all the Bluetooth gubbins in the world won't help.
But it's a very cool concept not needing alterations to the bikes gear shift rods etc. Easy to install and remove, swap between bikes etc. Neat
The cut needs to happen when the selector drum starts to load up as the selector forks begin to move the gears. If the sensor can accurately detect this moment then it could be a very neat unit. If not then all the Bluetooth gubbins in the world won't help.
But it's a very cool concept not needing alterations to the bikes gear shift rods etc. Easy to install and remove, swap between bikes etc. Neat
gtr786 said:
That's the one referenced earlier in this thread. I'm waiting for part two where he takes it on the road. Looks good so far though I think. Lincsblokey said:
Djtemeka said:
Yazza54 said:
DuraAce said:
Djtemeka said:
I wouldn't trust quick shifters.
They work but you will be stripping cogs in the gearboxes.
They shift so fast and the power is on full then wacks into the next gear with full force and so on and so forth.
Those cogs will eventually start wearing or snapping teeth.
Even clutch less upshifts are better as you are off the power when changing gears.
I'm not sure you've fully grasped how they work.They work but you will be stripping cogs in the gearboxes.
They shift so fast and the power is on full then wacks into the next gear with full force and so on and so forth.
Those cogs will eventually start wearing or snapping teeth.
Even clutch less upshifts are better as you are off the power when changing gears.
As has already been pointed out, using a properly set up, ignition kill shifter will prolong the life of a properly ridden bikes gearbox....
What he propbably said is that certain quickshifters, such as dynojet fuel cut ones, will destroy a gearbox pretty rapidly.
Tell me then, is there a difference between manufacturer fitted QS vs non oem types? I'd love one but don't want to wreck the busa as those motors and rather pricey!
Not really - there's plenty of difference between the various quickshifters, doesn't really matter who fitted it
The technical mumbo-jumbo helps - if you actually understand how the gearbox works it helps make a judgement about what's going on, and whether it is sound, for instance, all the cogs are continually engaged with each other, so damaging teeth is rather unfeasible.
A badly set up quickshifter might not do the dog rings (which actually engage the face of the spinning gear and lock it to the output shaft - the gear selection part) any good, but it's rather unlikely to destroy the engine.
The technical mumbo-jumbo helps - if you actually understand how the gearbox works it helps make a judgement about what's going on, and whether it is sound, for instance, all the cogs are continually engaged with each other, so damaging teeth is rather unfeasible.
A badly set up quickshifter might not do the dog rings (which actually engage the face of the spinning gear and lock it to the output shaft - the gear selection part) any good, but it's rather unlikely to destroy the engine.
Had an email from healtech to confirm it works in race and road pattern
Also that they can supply a loom with spade connectors for bikes without plug top coils like my Mille.
The only thing stopping me buying one is I'm sceptical of how accurate its going to be in terms of activation at the right time like Bassgt3 says. The set up of the sensitivity of the sensor must be adjustable as it would be different for any given bike.
Also that they can supply a loom with spade connectors for bikes without plug top coils like my Mille.
The only thing stopping me buying one is I'm sceptical of how accurate its going to be in terms of activation at the right time like Bassgt3 says. The set up of the sensitivity of the sensor must be adjustable as it would be different for any given bike.
Yazza54 said:
The only thing stopping me buying one is I'm sceptical of how accurate its going to be in terms of activation at the right time like Bassgt3 says. The set up of the sensitivity of the sensor must be adjustable as it would be different for any given bike.
This.Having seen the vid it's critical you set up the cut point to when the sensor is loaded at the point of gear change.
Also, will the sensor stay at that setting or is there a possibility of sensor drift resulting in mistimed cuts??. Given the small torque force acting on the sensor at the pinch bolt, it wouldn't take much for the unit to go out of whack and send the cut timing out of sync.
From the vid the sensitivity is adjustable but selecting the point of gear change loading doesn't seem obvious.
For that, ahhhhm ooooot!
bass gt3 said:
Yazza54 said:
The only thing stopping me buying one is I'm sceptical of how accurate its going to be in terms of activation at the right time like Bassgt3 says. The set up of the sensitivity of the sensor must be adjustable as it would be different for any given bike.
This.Having seen the vid it's critical you set up the cut point to when the sensor is loaded at the point of gear change.
Also, will the sensor stay at that setting or is there a possibility of sensor drift resulting in mistimed cuts??. Given the small torque force acting on the sensor at the pinch bolt, it wouldn't take much for the unit to go out of whack and send the cut timing out of sync.
From the vid the sensitivity is adjustable but selecting the point of gear change loading doesn't seem obvious.
For that, ahhhhm ooooot!
Is it just me or is this not very smooth?
http://youtu.be/IwrZI7utAUw
After all there's a reason all the other big boys use the in line strain gauge. Like you Steve I just can't see how it can work as accurately as a HM, Annitori, Cordona etc in line strain gauge.
Yazza54 said:
Hmmm
Is it just me or is this not very smooth?
http://youtu.be/IwrZI7utAUw
After all there's a reason all the other big boys use the in line strain gauge. Like you Steve I just can't see how it can work as accurately as a HM, Annitori, Cordona etc in line strain gauge.
Doesn't sound so nice, but might be the set up or operator.Is it just me or is this not very smooth?
http://youtu.be/IwrZI7utAUw
After all there's a reason all the other big boys use the in line strain gauge. Like you Steve I just can't see how it can work as accurately as a HM, Annitori, Cordona etc in line strain gauge.
It's a clever concept, but I guess time and guinea pigs will tell!
The QS on my Duc is part of the Nemesis system and a clever design if I do say so .
It's a a break arm style, so when you put your foot on the lever, it remains solid as the slack on the selector drum is taken up. So it only triggers exactly when the change is about to happen.
As soon as there's resistance from the drum and forks, the lever breaks at the sprung hinge by the toe lever. This break is tiny but activates the switch you can see in the middle which then signals the TCS to activate the QS. The really nice feature is you're able to adjust the QS for Cut only, Retard only or Cut & Retard. Then with the retard, there's a hostof settings to ramp the ignition timing back so you soften the change rather than having a binary on/off
It's the ability to ramp the ignition timing back to standard is what separates the average from the great units IMHO.
The changes are like butter, and in fact I have a little too much retard ramp as there's a gunshot at each change due to an overly long ignition cut& retard.
After 3 years of use the dogs are immaculate so seems to work well.
Put a post up on Trackday rider forum, apparently there has been a good result
http://www.trackdayriders.co.uk/tdr/forum/healtech...
http://www.trackdayriders.co.uk/tdr/forum/healtech...
for those who cant get access to that forum
Tinkling]Great shifter. Fitted one to a customers bike last week. Works neatly with no rod modifications needed. Setup via app on android phone and good range of adjustment. Works road or race shift too. One i will be happy to sell to my customers.[/QUOTE said:
bass gt3 said:
Sorry mate but I tend to be a bit sceptical of a shops recommendation.
Just somehow not convinced by the accuracy of the sensor.
But I guess you're looking for justification as to whether to buy one as it's cheaper than the usual suspects. So let us know how it goes....
No need to be sorry, I understand where you are coming from. I do have an option for Annitori Quick shifter Pro as Im currently away in Canada at the moment, so can get that for about the same price. Just somehow not convinced by the accuracy of the sensor.
But I guess you're looking for justification as to whether to buy one as it's cheaper than the usual suspects. So let us know how it goes....
I know there has been issues with Annitiro, but they have been sorted now.
I just liked the simple instalation(Healtech) and software interface, it seem well thought out and you can do diagnostics with the app on the sensor etc.
I'm genuinely interested but really quite sceptical.
I have less options for the mille because it doesn't have plug top coils and I don't want to go down the route of plugging into the PC3 either, as far as I'm aware that's fuel cut only. Would be easy and cheap but not the recommended method.
As they can do a version with spade connectors for conventional coils and it works in both shift patterns it sounds great, but it's the unproven sensor I'm unsure of.
Maybe I should send a really cheeky email offering to test it Wonder what fk off is in Hungarian
I have less options for the mille because it doesn't have plug top coils and I don't want to go down the route of plugging into the PC3 either, as far as I'm aware that's fuel cut only. Would be easy and cheap but not the recommended method.
As they can do a version with spade connectors for conventional coils and it works in both shift patterns it sounds great, but it's the unproven sensor I'm unsure of.
Maybe I should send a really cheeky email offering to test it Wonder what fk off is in Hungarian
Yazza54 said:
I'm genuinely interested but really quite sceptical.
I have less options for the mille because it doesn't have plug top coils and I don't want to go down the route of plugging into the PC3 either, as far as I'm aware that's fuel cut only. Would be easy and cheap but not the recommended method.
As they can do a version with spade connectors for conventional coils and it works in both shift patterns it sounds great, but it's the unproven sensor I'm unsure of.
Maybe I should send a really cheeky email offering to test it Wonder what fk off is in Hungarian
Ryan, I have less options for the mille because it doesn't have plug top coils and I don't want to go down the route of plugging into the PC3 either, as far as I'm aware that's fuel cut only. Would be easy and cheap but not the recommended method.
As they can do a version with spade connectors for conventional coils and it works in both shift patterns it sounds great, but it's the unproven sensor I'm unsure of.
Maybe I should send a really cheeky email offering to test it Wonder what fk off is in Hungarian
if you want one for the RSV either shoot HM a line and see what they can do or get one or a Ducati 1098 and I'll give you all the part numbers you'll need to make a small intermediate loom to connect to the RSV coils.
it'd be a doddle to do.
And yes, the PC3 is fuel cut so don't even think about it
bass gt3 said:
Yazza54 said:
I'm genuinely interested but really quite sceptical.
I have less options for the mille because it doesn't have plug top coils and I don't want to go down the route of plugging into the PC3 either, as far as I'm aware that's fuel cut only. Would be easy and cheap but not the recommended method.
As they can do a version with spade connectors for conventional coils and it works in both shift patterns it sounds great, but it's the unproven sensor I'm unsure of.
Maybe I should send a really cheeky email offering to test it Wonder what fk off is in Hungarian
Ryan, I have less options for the mille because it doesn't have plug top coils and I don't want to go down the route of plugging into the PC3 either, as far as I'm aware that's fuel cut only. Would be easy and cheap but not the recommended method.
As they can do a version with spade connectors for conventional coils and it works in both shift patterns it sounds great, but it's the unproven sensor I'm unsure of.
Maybe I should send a really cheeky email offering to test it Wonder what fk off is in Hungarian
if you want one for the RSV either shoot HM a line and see what they can do or get one or a Ducati 1098 and I'll give you all the part numbers you'll need to make a small intermediate loom to connect to the RSV coils.
it'd be a doddle to do.
And yes, the PC3 is fuel cut so don't even think about it
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