quickshifter help
Discussion
Yazza54 said:
trickywoo said:
Mr OCD said:
It's the HM Superlite I'm going to be buying... a few issues with the Healtech on Fireblades it seems ...
I'd be interested to hear how you get on.Chap on here with it fitted on a KTM RC8 didn't seem to rate it.
The best ones allow various settings at all rpms
Better still some calculate the right setting depending on the revs in real time like the cordona pq8 I've just bought. Good thing about these too is that they can be fitted to any bike, just remove it when you sell up. It's about £100 more than a HM lite but you get what you pay for and because it's a fully stand alone unit that can fit anything it's a better investment. That's how I've justified it to myself anyway
http://www.cordona.net/pq8.htm
Yazza54 said:
Is it the same as the HM plus which can only have one kill setting?
The best ones allow various settings at all rpms
Better still some calculate the right setting depending on the revs in real time like the cordona pq8 I've just bought. Good thing about these too is that they can be fitted to any bike, just remove it when you sell up. It's about £100 more than a HM lite but you get what you pay for and because it's a fully stand alone unit that can fit anything it's a better investment. That's how I've justified it to myself anyway
Apparently so... but can adjust at three levels... but essentially it's one kill setting at all RPM.The best ones allow various settings at all rpms
Better still some calculate the right setting depending on the revs in real time like the cordona pq8 I've just bought. Good thing about these too is that they can be fitted to any bike, just remove it when you sell up. It's about £100 more than a HM lite but you get what you pay for and because it's a fully stand alone unit that can fit anything it's a better investment. That's how I've justified it to myself anyway
The Cordona is massive so that's no good for me...
TBH the Superlite will be fine for road.
Mr OCD said:
Yazza54 said:
Is it the same as the HM plus which can only have one kill setting?
The best ones allow various settings at all rpms
Better still some calculate the right setting depending on the revs in real time like the cordona pq8 I've just bought. Good thing about these too is that they can be fitted to any bike, just remove it when you sell up. It's about £100 more than a HM lite but you get what you pay for and because it's a fully stand alone unit that can fit anything it's a better investment. That's how I've justified it to myself anyway
Apparently so... but can adjust at three levels... but essentially it's one kill setting at all RPM.The best ones allow various settings at all rpms
Better still some calculate the right setting depending on the revs in real time like the cordona pq8 I've just bought. Good thing about these too is that they can be fitted to any bike, just remove it when you sell up. It's about £100 more than a HM lite but you get what you pay for and because it's a fully stand alone unit that can fit anything it's a better investment. That's how I've justified it to myself anyway
The Cordona is massive so that's no good for me...
TBH the Superlite will be fine for road.
The fact it monitors rpm to calculate kill time and is universal with a bit of minor wiring sold it to me. For the same price the translogic that everyone raves over only works in one direction, isn't interchangeable and doesn't monitor. That was a biggie too as I want to try race shift... At least if I don't like it I can change back to road pattern between sessions. A lot of the others would require a different sensor!
Edited by Yazza54 on Tuesday 27th January 16:38
trickywoo said:
Mr OCD said:
The Cordona is massive so that's no good for me...
I was just thinking that. Does all the stuff shown need to be on the bike somewhere? You'd need a Goldwing to carry that lot.Listen, if you want it simple then buy something simple and consequently inferior. Remember I've got one on my desk so I can tell you whether it is actually "massive" or not.
Having had a HM plus and a translogic, the HM is literally a small loom and a sensor but as a result isn't really that technologically advanced - do you want a better bit of kit or a little bit more space under the seat? The translogic has a control unit that isn't particularly tiny, maybe slightly smaller than the PQ8 and the sensor is bigger. They are both circa 350 quid and have significant downsides that to me outweigh simply having to find somewhere to put a control unit.
Edited by Yazza54 on Tuesday 27th January 16:46
Yazza54 said:
There's a small ecu and the rest is the usual bits of wiring on a normal one.
Listen, if you want it simple then buy something simple and consequently inferior. Remember I've got one on my desk so I can tell you whether it is actually "massive" or not.
Having had a HM plus and a translogic, the HM is literally a small loom and a sensor but as a result isn't really that technologically advanced - do you want a better bit of kit or a little bit more space under the seat? The translogic has a control unit that isn't particularly tiny, maybe slightly smaller than the PQ8 and the sensor is bigger. They are both circa 350 quid and have significant downsides that to me outweigh simply having to find somewhere to put a control unit.
Small ECU? - measurements? Listen, if you want it simple then buy something simple and consequently inferior. Remember I've got one on my desk so I can tell you whether it is actually "massive" or not.
Having had a HM plus and a translogic, the HM is literally a small loom and a sensor but as a result isn't really that technologically advanced - do you want a better bit of kit or a little bit more space under the seat? The translogic has a control unit that isn't particularly tiny, maybe slightly smaller than the PQ8 and the sensor is bigger. They are both circa 350 quid and have significant downsides that to me outweigh simply having to find somewhere to put a control unit.
Edited by Yazza54 on Tuesday 27th January 16:46
On a track bike perhaps that is fine as is any bike with decent space in the storage... On the blade there is absolutely f
k all room. I barely got the PCV under the seat which is the size of a fag packet! They've made modern superbikes small and therefore storage is a luxury not a necessity...
Regardless your needs and mine are different. I just want a basic shifter for fun on the road ... It doesn't need to be all singing and dancing
I'll measure it up. I think you can put it near the air box or dash area too. Wouldn't know what space you have but I'm sure it could go somewhere if you had a good think.
I agree though, it's a full blown setup and a bit over kill, but is rather invest a little bit more and have something I can use over and over again when I get bored and change bikes
I agree though, it's a full blown setup and a bit over kill, but is rather invest a little bit more and have something I can use over and over again when I get bored and change bikes
Well I have done it, and brought one.
In the end I got it from Biker discount for £215 delivered with Mil discount. The benifits, well there seem to be a good warranty with it,lifetime updates and UK backup.
I wont be back in the UK until April, so I will give a full update then, unless someone beats me to it LOL.
In the end I got it from Biker discount for £215 delivered with Mil discount. The benifits, well there seem to be a good warranty with it,lifetime updates and UK backup.
I wont be back in the UK until April, so I will give a full update then, unless someone beats me to it LOL.
Hi guys, bit of a lurker on here but thought i'd dive in to offer my experience,
I've had a HM Superlite on my RR8 blade for about 3-4 months now and had no issue whatsoever with it. You can't adjust kill time, but you can set the sensitivity of the strain gauge - essentially you just change the amount of force needed on the gear lever before the q/s registers and cuts the ignition.
It starts on medium out of the box, but i changed mine to 'low' after a couple of weeks because i just found it a bit smoother at high revs.
I've probably done 2500 miles with mine and it's only really played up once a few weeks ago, but i think that might be to do with getting biblically soaked on the way home from work, then leaving it in the freezing garage overnight. Just disconnected the q/s loom from the bike, cleaned the contacts and put it back together again and it's worked fine since.
To be honest, for road use (which is all mine gets) the superlite is absolutely fine. I generally avoid using it from 1st to 2nd as it's quite clunky and can sometimes slip back into neutral, but other than that it's awesome.
I've had a HM Superlite on my RR8 blade for about 3-4 months now and had no issue whatsoever with it. You can't adjust kill time, but you can set the sensitivity of the strain gauge - essentially you just change the amount of force needed on the gear lever before the q/s registers and cuts the ignition.
It starts on medium out of the box, but i changed mine to 'low' after a couple of weeks because i just found it a bit smoother at high revs.
I've probably done 2500 miles with mine and it's only really played up once a few weeks ago, but i think that might be to do with getting biblically soaked on the way home from work, then leaving it in the freezing garage overnight. Just disconnected the q/s loom from the bike, cleaned the contacts and put it back together again and it's worked fine since.
To be honest, for road use (which is all mine gets) the superlite is absolutely fine. I generally avoid using it from 1st to 2nd as it's quite clunky and can sometimes slip back into neutral, but other than that it's awesome.
gsxr renegade said:
Hi guys, bit of a lurker on here but thought i'd dive in to offer my experience,
I've had a HM Superlite on my RR8 blade for about 3-4 months now and had no issue whatsoever with it. You can't adjust kill time, but you can set the sensitivity of the strain gauge - essentially you just change the amount of force needed on the gear lever before the q/s registers and cuts the ignition.
It starts on medium out of the box, but i changed mine to 'low' after a couple of weeks because i just found it a bit smoother at high revs.
I've probably done 2500 miles with mine and it's only really played up once a few weeks ago, but i think that might be to do with getting biblically soaked on the way home from work, then leaving it in the freezing garage overnight. Just disconnected the q/s loom from the bike, cleaned the contacts and put it back together again and it's worked fine since.
To be honest, for road use (which is all mine gets) the superlite is absolutely fine. I generally avoid using it from 1st to 2nd as it's quite clunky and can sometimes slip back into neutral, but other than that it's awesome.
Good to know - thank you ... That's pretty much made my mind up. It's true what they say about HM shifters ... You know they will just work. I've had a HM Superlite on my RR8 blade for about 3-4 months now and had no issue whatsoever with it. You can't adjust kill time, but you can set the sensitivity of the strain gauge - essentially you just change the amount of force needed on the gear lever before the q/s registers and cuts the ignition.
It starts on medium out of the box, but i changed mine to 'low' after a couple of weeks because i just found it a bit smoother at high revs.
I've probably done 2500 miles with mine and it's only really played up once a few weeks ago, but i think that might be to do with getting biblically soaked on the way home from work, then leaving it in the freezing garage overnight. Just disconnected the q/s loom from the bike, cleaned the contacts and put it back together again and it's worked fine since.
To be honest, for road use (which is all mine gets) the superlite is absolutely fine. I generally avoid using it from 1st to 2nd as it's quite clunky and can sometimes slip back into neutral, but other than that it's awesome.
Couple of questions:
1) Does anyone know if the superlite's fixed kill time is tuned per application (i.e. type of bike), or if it is a 'generic', presumably conservative/longer than might be strictly necessary cut? I guess if you're not trying to optimise the heck out of it then a slightly long cut isn't a big deal..
2) Is that PQ8 a switch? From reading here, I thought that strain gauges were the way to go, and that switched ones were the work of the devil? (Not attempting to wind up Yazza, just curious).
Would like one on the 848, but a bit leery of the costs..
1) Does anyone know if the superlite's fixed kill time is tuned per application (i.e. type of bike), or if it is a 'generic', presumably conservative/longer than might be strictly necessary cut? I guess if you're not trying to optimise the heck out of it then a slightly long cut isn't a big deal..
2) Is that PQ8 a switch? From reading here, I thought that strain gauges were the way to go, and that switched ones were the work of the devil? (Not attempting to wind up Yazza, just curious).
Would like one on the 848, but a bit leery of the costs..
upsidedownmark said:
Couple of questions:
1) Does anyone know if the superlite's fixed kill time is tuned per application (i.e. type of bike), or if it is a 'generic', presumably conservative/longer than might be strictly necessary cut? I guess if you're not trying to optimise the heck out of it then a slightly long cut isn't a big deal..
Not as far as i'm aware. I think it's just standard for all units at 50ms.1) Does anyone know if the superlite's fixed kill time is tuned per application (i.e. type of bike), or if it is a 'generic', presumably conservative/longer than might be strictly necessary cut? I guess if you're not trying to optimise the heck out of it then a slightly long cut isn't a big deal..
PQ8 is a strain gauge. Similar to the HM.. But the actual controls in the ecu are more advanced. It's more about what it does with the signal than how it detects it although strain gauges are known to be better as they don't wear out and work for road or race shift pattern.
It sounds like the super lite has a slightly more crude way of adjusting feel, but is probably all you'll ever need for the road. I just think for an extra £100 it makes sense to invest in something better and interchangeable.
It sounds like the super lite has a slightly more crude way of adjusting feel, but is probably all you'll ever need for the road. I just think for an extra £100 it makes sense to invest in something better and interchangeable.
Edited by Yazza54 on Wednesday 28th January 06:53
Cordona gear isn't new, I had one 4 years ago (from moto46 who were the importers at the time)
It was crude, and hellishly unreliable, I went through three sensors and a loom in 8 months.
It got returned in the end and I did the sensible thing and bought an HM setup.
That stayed on 3 of my 5 blades and a zx10r (with diff subloom) and never shirked its responsibilitys once.
I've also had a translogic, which wasn't bad just kept popping fuses.
A bazzaz, which was truly awful, it could never decide what sensitivity it sensed at and would quite often activate when you didn't even have the lever primed.
Oh, and it likes to kill gearboxes.
But the worst, by far, is Dynojet. Had one on my 600rr, my first blade, the zx10 and the R6, all of which got taken straight of & sold (I ended up binning the zx10r one)
Just an unreliable, gearbox destroying unreliable Piece of overpriced ste.
It was crude, and hellishly unreliable, I went through three sensors and a loom in 8 months.
It got returned in the end and I did the sensible thing and bought an HM setup.
That stayed on 3 of my 5 blades and a zx10r (with diff subloom) and never shirked its responsibilitys once.
I've also had a translogic, which wasn't bad just kept popping fuses.
A bazzaz, which was truly awful, it could never decide what sensitivity it sensed at and would quite often activate when you didn't even have the lever primed.
Oh, and it likes to kill gearboxes.
But the worst, by far, is Dynojet. Had one on my 600rr, my first blade, the zx10 and the R6, all of which got taken straight of & sold (I ended up binning the zx10r one)
Just an unreliable, gearbox destroying unreliable Piece of overpriced s
te.Edited by Lincsblokey on Wednesday 28th January 07:51
Never said they were new but many haven't heard of them.
Dunno what the old ones were like, I know at one point they had a completely different sensor to the one I've got. I've spoken to a few people running the current model on race bikes who all rate them.
Put it this way, this is the first I've heard of anyone saying anything negative about them... And whatever kit you but there's always someone who's had a bad experience.
This is the old one
Dunno what the old ones were like, I know at one point they had a completely different sensor to the one I've got. I've spoken to a few people running the current model on race bikes who all rate them.
Put it this way, this is the first I've heard of anyone saying anything negative about them... And whatever kit you but there's always someone who's had a bad experience.
This is the old one
Edited by Yazza54 on Wednesday 28th January 08:24
No it won't cut out.
It's not only the HM GP that can do 1st to 2nd. The factory QS on my BMW is fine for shifting 1st to 2nd as long you are above 8k revs. It'll shift below that RPM but it's not very smooth. Either way it's done 20k miles with no issues. I only use the clutch for 1st to 2nd if moving slowly. Under hard acceleration I always use the QS.
It's not only the HM GP that can do 1st to 2nd. The factory QS on my BMW is fine for shifting 1st to 2nd as long you are above 8k revs. It'll shift below that RPM but it's not very smooth. Either way it's done 20k miles with no issues. I only use the clutch for 1st to 2nd if moving slowly. Under hard acceleration I always use the QS.
Edited by DuraAce on Saturday 31st January 11:23
Same with the HM Super Lite, it can do 1st to 2nd, but tends to be really jerky and I find sometimes slips into a false neutral when getting on the power.
I just don't bother using it for 1st to 2nd.
no issues with finding neutral at the lights either. The unit cuts the ignition for such a short amount of time that it won't stall the engine even at a complete stop with the clutch in.
I've done it a few times when double checking i'm in 1st whilst waiting at a set of lights, put pressure on the unit and the revs will dip ever so slightly, but then go back up to normal idle speed. I find that i don't put enough pressure on the unit when going from 1st to neutral to even activate the q/s anyway.
I just don't bother using it for 1st to 2nd.
no issues with finding neutral at the lights either. The unit cuts the ignition for such a short amount of time that it won't stall the engine even at a complete stop with the clutch in.
I've done it a few times when double checking i'm in 1st whilst waiting at a set of lights, put pressure on the unit and the revs will dip ever so slightly, but then go back up to normal idle speed. I find that i don't put enough pressure on the unit when going from 1st to neutral to even activate the q/s anyway.
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