Static Sag v Rider Sag
Discussion
catso said:
That and there's generally more travel at the front.
Depends on the bike ... The blade for example has front axle travel of 110mm, yet the rear is 138mm ... Using 1/3rds that's 36mm front, 46mm rear ...
One thing I have learnt is despite the sag figures the blade definitely prefers a slightly nose down setup ... It just feels very planted, quick to change direction and improves confidence.
Mr OCD said:
Depends on the bike ... The blade for example has front axle travel of 110mm, yet the rear is 138mm ...
Using 1/3rds that's 36mm front, 46mm rear ...
One thing I have learnt is despite the sag figures the blade definitely prefers a slightly nose down setup ... It just feels very planted, quick to change direction and improves confidence.
That'll be suspension geometry then. An entirely new thread Using 1/3rds that's 36mm front, 46mm rear ...
One thing I have learnt is despite the sag figures the blade definitely prefers a slightly nose down setup ... It just feels very planted, quick to change direction and improves confidence.
Did you receive the Andrew Trevitt book?
Mr OCD said:
catso said:
That and there's generally more travel at the front.
Depends on the bike ... The blade for example has front axle travel of 110mm, yet the rear is 138mm ... Using 1/3rds that's 36mm front, 46mm rear ...
catso said:
Mr OCD said:
catso said:
That and there's generally more travel at the front.
Depends on the bike ... The blade for example has front axle travel of 110mm, yet the rear is 138mm ... Using 1/3rds that's 36mm front, 46mm rear ...
As for adding sag in the front, remember that you're changing the ride height and rake/trail slightly so it will feel different. It may well feel more flighty as the front end is now slightly higher and the rake is opened up. And adding preload DOES NOT change the spring rate ( we've been through this, I will not repeat myself again
). But what it does is Preload the spring (funny that!!) extending the fork. However, if you add preload, it's a good idea to soften/open the compression slightly to compensate, otherwise it will feel stiffer.Edited by bass gt3 on Thursday 9th April 00:22
bass gt3 said:
Generally the rear has about 10mm more travel than the front. 110/125 Front to 130-140 rear. 99% sports bikes are in this range.
As for adding sag in the front, remember that you're changing the ride height and rake/trail slightly so it will feel different. It may well feel more flighty as the front end is now slightly higher and the rake is opened up. And adding preload DOES NOT change the spring rate ( we've been through this, I will not repeat myself again ). But what it does is Preload the spring (funny that!!) extending the fork. However, if you add preload, it's a good idea to soften/open the compression slightly to compensate, otherwise it will feel stiffer.
Aye I know. I have been paying attention As for adding sag in the front, remember that you're changing the ride height and rake/trail slightly so it will feel different. It may well feel more flighty as the front end is now slightly higher and the rake is opened up. And adding preload DOES NOT change the spring rate ( we've been through this, I will not repeat myself again
). But what it does is Preload the spring (funny that!!) extending the fork. However, if you add preload, it's a good idea to soften/open the compression slightly to compensate, otherwise it will feel stiffer.Edited by bass gt3 on Thursday 9th April 00:22
Explains why it feels slightly stiffer on the front and the 'flighty' sensation when running more 'Preload / ride height' on the front... I didn't realise I would need to tweak the compression slightly as a result.
I may well stick it back where it was then and try that ...
Even funnier I weighed myself last night and it seems I've lost over 4kg over Winter, so explains why my early experiments of using other peoples settings didn't work
Yazza popped round tonight so did some measuring to see where we are at ...
Front:
Preload: 6 turns from fully out
Compression 2 turns
Rebound 2 1/4 turns
Fork topped out - 124mm
Static - 94mm
Rider - 80mm
Rider sag - 44mm
Rear:
Preload: notch 6
Compression now 2 1/2 turns
Rebound now 2 1/4 turns
Shock topped out - 620mm
Static - 610mm
Rider - 586mm
Rider sag - 34mm
Front:
Preload: 6 turns from fully out
Compression 2 turns
Rebound 2 1/4 turns
Fork topped out - 124mm
Static - 94mm
Rider - 80mm
Rider sag - 44mm
Rear:
Preload: notch 6
Compression now 2 1/2 turns
Rebound now 2 1/4 turns
Shock topped out - 620mm
Static - 610mm
Rider - 586mm
Rider sag - 34mm
Mr OCD said:
Yazza popped round tonight so did some measuring to see where we are at ...
Front:
Preload: 6 turns from fully out
Compression 2 turns
Rebound 2 1/4 turns
Fork topped out - 124mm
Static - 94mm
Rider - 80mm
Rider sag - 44mm
Rear:
Preload: notch 6
Compression now 2 1/2 turns
Rebound now 2 1/4 turns
Shock topped out - 620mm
Static - 610mm
Rider - 586mm
Rider sag - 34mm
And how does she feel?Front:
Preload: 6 turns from fully out
Compression 2 turns
Rebound 2 1/4 turns
Fork topped out - 124mm
Static - 94mm
Rider - 80mm
Rider sag - 44mm
Rear:
Preload: notch 6
Compression now 2 1/2 turns
Rebound now 2 1/4 turns
Shock topped out - 620mm
Static - 610mm
Rider - 586mm
Rider sag - 34mm
Yazza54 said:
Mr OCD said:
bass gt3 said:
And how does she feel?
In all honesty ... the best I've ever had ... Happy days.See what a couple of days learning can do vs getting mugged for 40 quid as time for some chump to twiddle yer knobs!!
Suspension really isn't so hard hey? Once you understand the basics......
bass gt3 said:
Hahaha Happy days.
See what a couple of days learning can do vs getting mugged for 40 quid as time for some chump to twiddle yer knobs!!
Suspension really isn't so hard hey? Once you understand the basics......
Cheers fella ! Appreciate the help Happy days.See what a couple of days learning can do vs getting mugged for 40 quid as time for some chump to twiddle yer knobs!!
Suspension really isn't so hard hey? Once you understand the basics......
Still bit bothered by front sag being 44mm but apparently with top out springs being fitted this is quite common and is not really an issue?
Thoughts?
Mr OCD said:
bass gt3 said:
Hahaha Happy days.
See what a couple of days learning can do vs getting mugged for 40 quid as time for some chump to twiddle yer knobs!!
Suspension really isn't so hard hey? Once you understand the basics......
Cheers fella ! Appreciate the help Happy days.See what a couple of days learning can do vs getting mugged for 40 quid as time for some chump to twiddle yer knobs!!
Suspension really isn't so hard hey? Once you understand the basics......
Still bit bothered by front sag being 44mm but apparently with top out springs being fitted this is quite common and is not really an issue?
Thoughts?
Mr OCD said:
bass gt3 said:
Hahaha Happy days.
See what a couple of days learning can do vs getting mugged for 40 quid as time for some chump to twiddle yer knobs!!
Suspension really isn't so hard hey? Once you understand the basics......
Cheers fella ! Appreciate the help Happy days.See what a couple of days learning can do vs getting mugged for 40 quid as time for some chump to twiddle yer knobs!!
Suspension really isn't so hard hey? Once you understand the basics......
Still bit bothered by front sag being 44mm but apparently with top out springs being fitted this is quite common and is not really an issue?
Thoughts?
For a dedicated track bike I'd bring the sag down a fair bit, to around 30/35mm front.
Hopefully Ryan can get his sorted, just needs a methodical approach.....
bass gt3 said:
For road use, your settings are ideal. You've got around 1/3rd of the suspension able to extend into potholes/dips etc, so you're bob on where you need to be.
For a dedicated track bike I'd bring the sag down a fair bit, to around 30/35mm front.
Hopefully Ryan can get his sorted, just needs a methodical approach.....
LMAO! For a dedicated track bike I'd bring the sag down a fair bit, to around 30/35mm front.
Hopefully Ryan can get his sorted, just needs a methodical approach.....
Excellent stuff ... I'm going on track soon so may well play with the sag on front but even at fast road pace I've still a good 30-40mm of travel left so at my track pace I don't think it will be a problem tbh. I have a tie wrap on the fork to keep an eye on travel.
If I do reduce the sag I will drop the forks the equivalent height difference to keep the geometry the same.
It feels epic.
Ryan knows I will help him setup the zx6r if he gets stuck
Mr OCD said:
bass gt3 said:
For road use, your settings are ideal. You've got around 1/3rd of the suspension able to extend into potholes/dips etc, so you're bob on where you need to be.
For a dedicated track bike I'd bring the sag down a fair bit, to around 30/35mm front.
Hopefully Ryan can get his sorted, just needs a methodical approach.....
LMAO! For a dedicated track bike I'd bring the sag down a fair bit, to around 30/35mm front.
Hopefully Ryan can get his sorted, just needs a methodical approach.....
Excellent stuff ... I'm going on track soon so may well play with the sag on front but even at fast road pace I've still a good 30-40mm of travel left so at my track pace I don't think it will be a problem tbh. I have a tie wrap on the fork to keep an eye on travel.
If I do reduce the sag I will drop the forks the equivalent height difference to keep the geometry the same.
It feels epic.
Ryan knows I will help him setup the zx6r if he gets stuck
But if the bike is well set up, it'll ride well on track, especially if you're using road biased tyres. If you were going to slicks, then yes, you'd stiffen up a bit. But if the suspension is working, you'll be getting great grip from the tyres and the whole bike will be working well.
I'm fitting a full set of Penske Gas forks and rear shock to a ZX10 racer next week, and upgrading 2 S1K's t full K-Tech's. Should be fun getting them all set up....
bass gt3 said:
TBH is would leave he sag alone. Maybe close the comp up a little as you'll be braking harder than you do on the road. And keep an eye on your tyres for tell tales indicating rebound needing a tweek.
But if the bike is well set up, it'll ride well on track, especially if you're using road biased tyres. If you were going to slicks, then yes, you'd stiffen up a bit. But if the suspension is working, you'll be getting great grip from the tyres and the whole bike will be working well.
I'm fitting a full set of Penske Gas forks and rear shock to a ZX10 racer next week, and upgrading 2 S1K's t full K-Tech's. Should be fun getting them all set up....
Ok fella ... Will do, I must resist fiddling any further lol.But if the bike is well set up, it'll ride well on track, especially if you're using road biased tyres. If you were going to slicks, then yes, you'd stiffen up a bit. But if the suspension is working, you'll be getting great grip from the tyres and the whole bike will be working well.
I'm fitting a full set of Penske Gas forks and rear shock to a ZX10 racer next week, and upgrading 2 S1K's t full K-Tech's. Should be fun getting them all set up....
Comp screws 1/2 turn for track?
Sounds like fun ... But like you say it's simple once you've worked the basics out eh?
Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff