ZX6R Track bike Project
Discussion
So I bought myself a “trackbike” over the weekend. Don’t fancy throwing any of my road bikes across the nice track tarmac. It will be staying road legal for the occasional blast.
1997 ZX6R – straight, clear, low mileage and owners. Picture below is after I got it home and gave it a good clean up before being rolled back into the garage.
Spent yesterday stripping it all down and chucked a few extras from it on fleabay to offset some cost. I’m ok with a set of spanners so will be doing most/all of the work myself.
Will keep this updated as I go – for my progress more than anything and asking advice when needed.
So far the rear shock is soft as a sponge so will need rebuilding/replacing. I’m thinking a J model shock will fit without too much work?
Front fork seals are leaking, I’m sure a quick whip round with a sealmate will work but may as well replace the seals, springs and oil.Current thoughts are Hagon shocks or can anyone suggest an alternative?
Downpipes are rusted so replacing them with stainless G model downpipes from fleabay.
Stripped and rebuilt the sticking rear caliper.
Wheels to be stripped and painted black
It’s a budget build if you like so not much will be new.
1997 ZX6R – straight, clear, low mileage and owners. Picture below is after I got it home and gave it a good clean up before being rolled back into the garage.
Spent yesterday stripping it all down and chucked a few extras from it on fleabay to offset some cost. I’m ok with a set of spanners so will be doing most/all of the work myself.
Will keep this updated as I go – for my progress more than anything and asking advice when needed.
So far the rear shock is soft as a sponge so will need rebuilding/replacing. I’m thinking a J model shock will fit without too much work?
Front fork seals are leaking, I’m sure a quick whip round with a sealmate will work but may as well replace the seals, springs and oil.Current thoughts are Hagon shocks or can anyone suggest an alternative?
Downpipes are rusted so replacing them with stainless G model downpipes from fleabay.
Stripped and rebuilt the sticking rear caliper.
Wheels to be stripped and painted black
It’s a budget build if you like so not much will be new.
Before you get too carried away Kawasaki changed quite a lot between your F model and the next generation G - J series, for example if you fit the G model headers you will also need to fit a G model or later end can because your F version will not lineup.
Also the F has an external rear damper reservoir, G and J does not, it might fit event though the F has a narrower swingwarm but even then I expect you will need to chop the battery box to give enough clearance.
Also the F has an external rear damper reservoir, G and J does not, it might fit event though the F has a narrower swingwarm but even then I expect you will need to chop the battery box to give enough clearance.
pozi said:
Before you get too carried away Kawasaki changed quite a lot between your F model and the next generation G - J series, for example if you fit the G model headers you will also need to fit a G model or later end can because your F version will not lineup.
Also the F has an external rear damper reservoir, G and J does not, it might fit event though the F has a narrower swingwarm but even then I expect you will need to chop the battery box to give enough clearance.
I know and am fine with the header/ end can issue. It's still a lot cheaper than paying just over £200 for new stainless pipes.Also the F has an external rear damper reservoir, G and J does not, it might fit event though the F has a narrower swingwarm but even then I expect you will need to chop the battery box to give enough clearance.
I understand the J model shock will fit, but needs battery box chop and the battery moving up to accommodate the internal reservoir.
Do appreciate you pointing those things out though - done a few hours of research on what will/won't fit.
Jonjo91 said:
Front fork seals are leaking, I’m sure a quick whip round with a sealmate will work but may as well replace the seals, springs and oil.Current thoughts are Hagon shocks or can anyone suggest an alternative?
Do you mean Hagon springs for the forks, or a Hagon rear shock? For the fork springs you should be looking at a proper linear rate spring which is matched to your weight e.g. K-Tech All fairings are off, rear wheel off and rear shock now removed for refurb. Going for a new k-tech rear spring.
Bikes been pretty easy to work on so far nothing is seized yet, given the header bolts a good soak in plus gas and will give them another spray before they get removed towards the end of next week.
Next job is remove front wheel and shocks to give them a refurb.
Jonjo91 said:
Whoops, meant Hagon springs for the front forks.
Will have a look at K-tech ones also although I don't think they did any to suit the 1997 model when I last checked.
Ohlins seem to make springs for the 97 ZX6R. Not cheap, but not much more than K-Tech.Will have a look at K-tech ones also although I don't think they did any to suit the 1997 model when I last checked.
Edited by Jonjo91 on Tuesday 5th May 14:02
Need some more help & suggestions with the front springs.
I’ve been suggested 9.5N/mm would be a good spring rate for the fronts, I’ve had a google and used Race tech calculator and that came out with 9.55N/MM too so guess that’s where I need to be?
I weigh about 82kg if this is any use.
I’ve looked at the Ohlins springs but they only seem to offer 8.5N/MM for my bike.
Hagon just offer a progressive spring with no mention of N/MM rate.
I can't really get my head around KTech products section either.
Other than the springs quandary this little project is going very well, so far…
All help appreciated!
I’ve been suggested 9.5N/mm would be a good spring rate for the fronts, I’ve had a google and used Race tech calculator and that came out with 9.55N/MM too so guess that’s where I need to be?
I weigh about 82kg if this is any use.
I’ve looked at the Ohlins springs but they only seem to offer 8.5N/MM for my bike.
Hagon just offer a progressive spring with no mention of N/MM rate.
I can't really get my head around KTech products section either.
Other than the springs quandary this little project is going very well, so far…
All help appreciated!
Jonjo91 said:
Need some more help & suggestions with the front springs.
I’ve been suggested 9.5N/mm would be a good spring rate for the fronts, I’ve had a google and used Race tech calculator and that came out with 9.55N/MM too so guess that’s where I need to be?
I weigh about 82kg if this is any use.
I’ve looked at the Ohlins springs but they only seem to offer 8.5N/MM for my bike.
Hagon just offer a progressive spring with no mention of N/MM rate.
I can't really get my head around KTech products section either.
Other than the springs quandary this little project is going very well, so far…
All help appreciated!
I would think you'd be better off with a 10nm spring if it's to be a dedicated track bike. I’ve been suggested 9.5N/mm would be a good spring rate for the fronts, I’ve had a google and used Race tech calculator and that came out with 9.55N/MM too so guess that’s where I need to be?
I weigh about 82kg if this is any use.
I’ve looked at the Ohlins springs but they only seem to offer 8.5N/MM for my bike.
Hagon just offer a progressive spring with no mention of N/MM rate.
I can't really get my head around KTech products section either.
Other than the springs quandary this little project is going very well, so far…
All help appreciated!
before you worry about who has what, get one of the springs out and measure its diameter and length. With this you can chat with any spring supplier easier than them looking through old bike reference tables.
As for the Hagon, a progressive won't have a N/mm value. It's progressive so gets stiffer as it compresses. Not good for track at all.
Report back with a front spring in your hand........
Jonjo91 said:
Oh dear, not what you want to see. A long baggy progressive spring....So, couple of options.. Either find a similar replacement in a heavier gauge or....
Find the dimensions of a normal K-Tech spring. I know their length is 260mm but not sure of the diameter.
Have a spacer made to take up the difference between the two spring lengths, so 390-260= 130mm. As long as it provides a solid base for the spring to sit on it should work fine..
Thanks for the advice.
I’ll admit I’ve done little reading up on the difference in spring rates etc.
Ohlins do springs for my bike at 8.5n/MM, I’ve emailed to see if they do anything a bit stiffer but I guess I could keep it simple and use some thicker fork oil?
I’m not going to be the next Marquez on track by a LONG shot. So am I going to notice a difference in say 8.5n/MM over 9.5 or 10N/mm?
I’ll admit I’ve done little reading up on the difference in spring rates etc.
Ohlins do springs for my bike at 8.5n/MM, I’ve emailed to see if they do anything a bit stiffer but I guess I could keep it simple and use some thicker fork oil?
I’m not going to be the next Marquez on track by a LONG shot. So am I going to notice a difference in say 8.5n/MM over 9.5 or 10N/mm?
Jonjo91 said:
Thanks for the advice.
I’ll admit I’ve done little reading up on the difference in spring rates etc.
Ohlins do springs for my bike at 8.5n/MM, I’ve emailed to see if they do anything a bit stiffer but I guess I could keep it simple and use some thicker fork oil?
I’m not going to be the next Marquez on track by a LONG shot. So am I going to notice a difference in say 8.5n/MM over 9.5 or 10N/mm?
Thicker oil is the last thing you want to use, especially for a track bike. Use top quality 5 Weight and no heavier.I’ll admit I’ve done little reading up on the difference in spring rates etc.
Ohlins do springs for my bike at 8.5n/MM, I’ve emailed to see if they do anything a bit stiffer but I guess I could keep it simple and use some thicker fork oil?
I’m not going to be the next Marquez on track by a LONG shot. So am I going to notice a difference in say 8.5n/MM over 9.5 or 10N/mm?
As for springs, do whatever you can to fit 9.5-10 springs.
As said, look at using modern springs if the diameter permits and an adapter tube/spacer to get the job done. Using too soft springs you'll never get the bike to handle well, not what you want in a track bike
Jonjo91 said:
I’m not going to be the next Marquez on track by a LONG shot. So am I going to notice a difference in say 8.5n/MM over 9.5 or 10N/mm?
If you are using sticky tyres on a track then the suspension forces will be much higher than they would be on the road. You don't really want the forks to be sitting on the stops during braking and cornering.Is it possible to fit forks from a later bike that have better aftermarket support?
Jonjo91 said:
Ohlins have come back and can offer a 9.5 spring.
Happy days
Job done!Happy days
Now you can play with the air gap to adjust the end of stroke damping which effectively stiffens the springs in the last part of the fork stroke.
Give everything a thorough clean through before reassembly and get the factory specs for oil height and measuring method.Good quality oil and you're set
I thought i was there yesterday. Hit the ignition....fuel leaking from the fuel mixture screws, all 4 of them.
So carbs off again and I think the floats my be sticking, they have been ultrasonically cleaned and then sat for a few weeks in a box. Any less anyone can suggest a different fix?
So carbs off again and I think the floats my be sticking, they have been ultrasonically cleaned and then sat for a few weeks in a box. Any less anyone can suggest a different fix?
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