Picked up my 1299 today. I'm still speechless.
Discussion
Donington days that are advertised as 105dB are unsilenced in reality and that's stated at the circuit.
Anglesey don't noise test either currently, although if it's stupidly loud they may pull you over to prevent any upset with the neighbours.
Someone was tested with one of the recent Ducatis at 145dB at Oulton, according to one of the marshals there. No idea how true that was though as it would've been like a bomb permanently going off
Anglesey don't noise test either currently, although if it's stupidly loud they may pull you over to prevent any upset with the neighbours.
Someone was tested with one of the recent Ducatis at 145dB at Oulton, according to one of the marshals there. No idea how true that was though as it would've been like a bomb permanently going off
LoonR1 said:
Someone was tested with one of the recent Ducatis at 145dB at Oulton, according to one of the marshals there. No idea how true that was though as it would've been like a bomb permanently going off
It was more than likely the branded Ducati leathers and helmet that were really loud
obscene said:
What are the 1199/1299's hitting for the noise test with stanard/termi/full system? Want to take my 1098R on track but worrying it won't pass the noise test even with baffles in unless it's a 105db day.
At Cadwell my 1299 (stock, but exhaust valve disconnected and lock wired open) has been getting 105db when tested although once it in at 108!!!Not sure on how reliable the test equipment or procedure is though?!
Jack Goff said:
LoonR1 said:
Someone was tested with one of the recent Ducatis at 145dB at Oulton, according to one of the marshals there. No idea how true that was though as it would've been like a bomb permanently going off
It was more than likely the branded Ducati leathers and helmet that were really loud
LoonR1 said:
Donington days that are advertised as 105dB are unsilenced in reality and that's stated at the circuit.
Anglesey don't noise test either currently, although if it's stupidly loud they may pull you over to prevent any upset with the neighbours.
Someone was tested with one of the recent Ducatis at 145dB at Oulton, according to one of the marshals there. No idea how true that was though as it would've been like a bomb permanently going off
Was out for a run in the company of a Ducati Superleggera on Sunday and the noise from it is actually uncomfortable when right behind it and the baffle in the exhaust is removable so I would imagine the claim at Oulton could be quite close?Anglesey don't noise test either currently, although if it's stupidly loud they may pull you over to prevent any upset with the neighbours.
Someone was tested with one of the recent Ducatis at 145dB at Oulton, according to one of the marshals there. No idea how true that was though as it would've been like a bomb permanently going off
jaf01uk said:
LoonR1 said:
Donington days that are advertised as 105dB are unsilenced in reality and that's stated at the circuit.
Anglesey don't noise test either currently, although if it's stupidly loud they may pull you over to prevent any upset with the neighbours.
Someone was tested with one of the recent Ducatis at 145dB at Oulton, according to one of the marshals there. No idea how true that was though as it would've been like a bomb permanently going off
Was out for a run in the company of a Ducati Superleggera on Sunday and the noise from it is actually uncomfortable when right behind it and the baffle in the exhaust is removable so I would imagine the claim at Oulton could be quite close?Anglesey don't noise test either currently, although if it's stupidly loud they may pull you over to prevent any upset with the neighbours.
Someone was tested with one of the recent Ducatis at 145dB at Oulton, according to one of the marshals there. No idea how true that was though as it would've been like a bomb permanently going off
jaf01uk said:
LoonR1 said:
Donington days that are advertised as 105dB are unsilenced in reality and that's stated at the circuit.
Anglesey don't noise test either currently, although if it's stupidly loud they may pull you over to prevent any upset with the neighbours.
Someone was tested with one of the recent Ducatis at 145dB at Oulton, according to one of the marshals there. No idea how true that was though as it would've been like a bomb permanently going off
Was out for a run in the company of a Ducati Superleggera on Sunday and the noise from it is actually uncomfortable when right behind it and the baffle in the exhaust is removable so I would imagine the claim at Oulton could be quite close?Anglesey don't noise test either currently, although if it's stupidly loud they may pull you over to prevent any upset with the neighbours.
Someone was tested with one of the recent Ducatis at 145dB at Oulton, according to one of the marshals there. No idea how true that was though as it would've been like a bomb permanently going off
Steve Bass said:
Remember that hot to the touch isn't the same as sufficiently hot. Sounds silly but bear with me.
if the tyre is at room/ outside temperature, going out and getting on it will heat the surface layers to the point of feeling hot to the touch. Problem is the carcass isn't as hot and the sudden heating of the outer layer causes a delaminating effect, the top rubber seperating from the carcas or lower layers if it heats up too much too quickly. This can manifest as either hot or cold tear depending on the inflation of the tyre, but the end result is the same.
Now the only thing you can do, if warmers are not an option, is to take a few extra laps and work the carcas, getting heat into it by accelerating and braking and gradually getting over on the side but without stressing it excessively without lots of hard throttle when leant over.
Regardless of how a tyre feels to the touch, patterns like that are telling you what's really happening.
Just from the pics i'd suspect the initial pressure is too low to begin with, the tyre as a whole isn't heating up sufficiently and then you're working the tyre excessively hard too early and it's then tearing due to the differential temps through the carcas layers. Remember that you have the traction control acting to limit slip and spins and from the vid it doesn't look like you're spinning up wildly, so something is off to wear tyres like that. You've already mentioned the metz RR's don't last long. maybe there's a good reason for that
Try more pressure to begin with and move to using hot pressures when you get in as a measure. Cold values are meaningless if you don't know what the hot pressure is. Sart working out how much the pressure rises cold to hot then you should be able to accurately guesstimate the cold pressure to begin with. And give a cold tyre a chance, a warmer takes an hour to heat a tyre through, be a bit more forgiving in the early stages and you'll get better life AND better grip
as a reference, here's a k2 slick coming to the end of its life (look at the depth of the side dimples) and you can see what you should be aiming for.
You can see this tyre has been driven hard on it's left side as the side is very flat looking yet no tears or untoward signs.
Thanks Steve appreciate the advice, will Defo take that on board! I have just 1-2 psi makes a big difference with These tyres!
The K3 did not not suffer with the same wear issues over the same number of sessions.
if the tyre is at room/ outside temperature, going out and getting on it will heat the surface layers to the point of feeling hot to the touch. Problem is the carcass isn't as hot and the sudden heating of the outer layer causes a delaminating effect, the top rubber seperating from the carcas or lower layers if it heats up too much too quickly. This can manifest as either hot or cold tear depending on the inflation of the tyre, but the end result is the same.
Now the only thing you can do, if warmers are not an option, is to take a few extra laps and work the carcas, getting heat into it by accelerating and braking and gradually getting over on the side but without stressing it excessively without lots of hard throttle when leant over.
Regardless of how a tyre feels to the touch, patterns like that are telling you what's really happening.
Just from the pics i'd suspect the initial pressure is too low to begin with, the tyre as a whole isn't heating up sufficiently and then you're working the tyre excessively hard too early and it's then tearing due to the differential temps through the carcas layers. Remember that you have the traction control acting to limit slip and spins and from the vid it doesn't look like you're spinning up wildly, so something is off to wear tyres like that. You've already mentioned the metz RR's don't last long. maybe there's a good reason for that
Try more pressure to begin with and move to using hot pressures when you get in as a measure. Cold values are meaningless if you don't know what the hot pressure is. Sart working out how much the pressure rises cold to hot then you should be able to accurately guesstimate the cold pressure to begin with. And give a cold tyre a chance, a warmer takes an hour to heat a tyre through, be a bit more forgiving in the early stages and you'll get better life AND better grip
as a reference, here's a k2 slick coming to the end of its life (look at the depth of the side dimples) and you can see what you should be aiming for.
You can see this tyre has been driven hard on it's left side as the side is very flat looking yet no tears or untoward signs.
Thanks Steve appreciate the advice, will Defo take that on board! I have just 1-2 psi makes a big difference with These tyres!
The K3 did not not suffer with the same wear issues over the same number of sessions.
Edited by Steve Bass on Tuesday 29th September 12:29
Reardy Mister said:
chillo said:
Faaarkin 'ell that thing is fast. Mind you, the Bmmer was motoring too. If you could corner like your mate you'd have nailed him in 2 laps 
fergus said:
is it worth considering one of the waterless coolants out there which reduce pressure as well as water jacket temps?
Pressure is a good thing, as long as it's within limits as it stops the water boiling at 100C the higher the pressure.Could be desinged to run this hot, could be a lack of volume in either the coolant or the rad, could be a lack of flow to the rad or the temp sensor causing it to show hotter than it may well be.
Like Steve says, only really an issue when the temp sensor sends a signal to the ECU that causes it to pull timing and go to a super rich map to cool the combustion chambers.
It's just that at an evening trackday in the UK which didn't look like it was melting the tarmac, I was gobsmacked to see it running well over 100C on several occasions.
StuB said:
Fast HELL YES, runs a high temp as well doesn't it? That dash is unbelievably clear and I quite liked the camera view too. How did you mount the cam?
Yes, it was running quite a high temp. Definitely felt like it was taking a slight edge of it. I have an Evo Tech rad guard and oil cooler guard which is no doubt reducing air flow over the rads so I was planning on taking it off for the next TD.StuB said:
Pressure is a good thing, as long as it's within limits as it stops the water boiling at 100C the higher the pressure.
? I've seen Radicals running Evans waterless coolant come off track and have their rad caps undone to check levels, whilst the engine is running. i.e. almost no pressure at all, with temps around 95 degrees.Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff