Kawasaki Z200 with a twist.... would you?

Kawasaki Z200 with a twist.... would you?

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Discussion

Biker's Nemesis

38,717 posts

209 months

Wednesday 16th December 2015
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BuzzBravado said:
Is anyone still reading this?
I am so get your finger out!

Soft Top

1,465 posts

219 months

Wednesday 16th December 2015
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BuzzBravado said:
Is anyone still reading this?
Certainly am. Update please.

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

256 months

Wednesday 16th December 2015
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BuzzBravado said:
Got all my chrome back and built the wheels back up. Then taken the wheels to a bike shop to be "trued".
FWIW it's really not difficult to true the wheels yourself. I've just rebuilt the wheels on a Suzuki B120 that I'm restoring, and whilst I've trued up many bicycle wheels I'd never completely rebuilt a motorcycle wheel. Turns out that it's actually pretty easy and is quite a cathartic process.

Biker's Nemesis

38,717 posts

209 months

Wednesday 16th December 2015
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Mr2Mike said:
Suzuki B120
A Bloop.

Or, was that the 100?

graham22

3,295 posts

206 months

Thursday 17th December 2015
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Biker's Nemesis said:
Mr2Mike said:
Suzuki B120
A Bloop.

Or, was that the 100?
B100p was the bloop. B120 was it's big bore brother - replaced by the GP100 & GP125.

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

256 months

Thursday 17th December 2015
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Biker's Nemesis said:
A Bloop.

Or, was that the 100?
Yep, the Bloop was the B100P. I had a B100P as a nipper with knobbly tyres, plastic front and rear mudguards and a high level exhaust fitted to ride around my grandparents farm. The B120 is pretty much the same bike (same engine, frame, suspension etc.) just with a few minor styling differences.



My dad spotted this B120 on eBay going cheap and it was local so bought it for me thinking I would go all misty eyed with nostalgia, but to be quite honest it's been a bit of an imposition as it was in an horrendous state and even tidy ones don't fetch a lot. I've fully rebuilt the engine and box (started on the interesting bit first!) as it was full of water and needed all new bearings, seals and a rebore. Amazingly the crank was in good nick. The forks have also been fully rebuilt, the only salvageable parts were the lowers, and the wheels have been rebuilt with new rims and spokes and shod with new tyres and tubes.

I've sourced a lot of NOS parts: fuel tank (original completely rotten), headlamp and shroud, shocks, front and rear mudguards, fork tubes and the steel fork shrouds, plastic side cover and god knows how many other bits and pieces. I need a decent seat, or even just the base but they are simply unobtainable so probably going to modify an A100 seat to fit. As always, a half tidy example would have been massively cheaper.

The frame and swingarm have been blasted and primed, but needs to be painted before I can start building it up. Unfortunately the frame and swingarm is sprayed in the tank colour so paint will be expensive so I'll probably pay to have it done properly.

graham22 said:
B100p was the bloop. B120 was it's big bore brother - replaced by the GP100 & GP125.
Both the B100P and the B120 have the same 118cc engine. I always thought it was a bit odd that Suzuki sold the B100P/120 alongside the A100, virtually the same bikes apart from the more advanced disc valve engine in the A100.

Edited by Mr2Mike on Thursday 17th December 09:52

BuzzBravado

Original Poster:

2,944 posts

172 months

Saturday 19th December 2015
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A bit more today. Got the disc blasted and painted and got the tyres fitted. The controls have been stripped and cleaned out with the cases painted.













What's the best way to protect the insides of the guards? Was thinking waxoyl but that will get dirty pretty quick.




LuS1fer

41,142 posts

246 months

Saturday 19th December 2015
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POR15 is great stuff for the insides of the guards, I imagine, have used it on car inner arches.

BuzzBravado

Original Poster:

2,944 posts

172 months

Saturday 16th January 2016
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Not much left to do now. Got the seat redone today. Also replaced the lower yoke as i think it was bent slightly.


Biker's Nemesis

38,717 posts

209 months

Saturday 16th January 2016
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swear by ACF50 for protecting polished and plated parts. It can be sprayed on everything apart from tyres and disc's.

Cost is about £18 for a 750ml can which will do your bike a dozen times at least.

Gunk

3,302 posts

160 months

Sunday 17th January 2016
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Just stumbled across this thread, fantastic quality job there OP that will be a little gem when it's finished, you'll just need some 501's a pair of Army boots and an old Belstaff and your look will be complete.

Are you going to repaint the tank and side panels in the original colour scheme?

Vincefox

20,566 posts

173 months

Sunday 17th January 2016
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Bookmarked, love it. smile

BuzzBravado

Original Poster:

2,944 posts

172 months

Sunday 17th January 2016
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Gunk said:
Are you going to repaint the tank and side panels in the original colour scheme?
Not initially as the blue looks good, but i can change it to black easily at a later date. How you get the green details back in I don't know.

BuzzBravado

Original Poster:

2,944 posts

172 months

Sunday 17th January 2016
quotequote all
Biker's Nemesis said:
swear by ACF50 for protecting polished and plated parts. It can be sprayed on everything apart from tyres and disc's.

Cost is about £18 for a 750ml can which will do your bike a dozen times at least.
Is it invisible once it dries? I take it I wouldn't be able to wax/polish over the top?

Biker's Nemesis

38,717 posts

209 months

Sunday 17th January 2016
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BuzzBravado said:
Is it invisible once it dries? I take it I wouldn't be able to wax/polish over the top?
It is, I leave all the bits that can't be seen un-polished like the underside of the mudguards etc.

My FS1-M has been done for 5 years now and nothing has tarnished or faded, I got some of my car mates to try it on their cars, they do under bonnet and all the suspension components and they still look like new.

I was sceptical at first but it does work.

Gunk

3,302 posts

160 months

Sunday 17th January 2016
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BuzzBravado said:
Gunk said:
Are you going to repaint the tank and side panels in the original colour scheme?
Not initially as the blue looks good, but i can change it to black easily at a later date. How you get the green details back in I don't know.
A good specialist paint shop should be able to replicate all the original pinstripes

SteelerSE

1,896 posts

157 months

Sunday 17th January 2016
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Top job OP.

3DP

9,917 posts

235 months

Sunday 17th January 2016
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Great little restore and history OP. Proper job too.

As BN said - ACF50 is great. It will leave a slight residue, but it stops everything and anything corroding. It doesn't atomise well, so either warm the can a little in hottish water or spray onto a rag and wipe things with it.

13aines

2,153 posts

150 months

Monday 18th January 2016
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BuzzBravado said:
Is it invisible once it dries? I take it I wouldn't be able to wax/polish over the top?
You would not need to wax it after applying ACF50 - it does it's thing very well and leaves a nice shine. If you wanted to polish the chrome up, the ACF50 would not hinder you, you'll just polish off the residue it leaves behind.

It's also great on rubber hoses, brings them up like new.

I like the liquid stuff you buy in the litre bottle for about £30. A drop on a rag goes a very long way and no worries about warming it up like the aerosol. Comes with a small spray bottle. I half filled mine two years ago and i've barely dented it!

BuzzBravado

Original Poster:

2,944 posts

172 months

Monday 18th January 2016
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Surely this isn't right:

https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/family/kawasaki_z200

4 on the road and 21 SORN'd.