Powerful sports bike with lower seat height.
Discussion
I did tell him to come round and sit on my GSXR1000 K2 but he didn't bother.
O well, he's going to have to put up with the R1 now
I did look on the MCN reviews page for reference and from what I recall the MV was around 790mm seat height and on other models such as Suzuki it was over 800mm. But on the MV it was wide and like sitting on a plank of wood. The suspension was also rock hard and on our country roads he said it killed his nuts.
O well, he's going to have to put up with the R1 now
I did look on the MCN reviews page for reference and from what I recall the MV was around 790mm seat height and on other models such as Suzuki it was over 800mm. But on the MV it was wide and like sitting on a plank of wood. The suspension was also rock hard and on our country roads he said it killed his nuts.
Prof Prolapse said:
Well that's what I thought at first, explain how this is wrong then;
"Two settings that will feel almost identical: We lowered the front end of this bike during a test using the preload adjuster (above). Back at the shop, we raised the fork tubes in the triple clamps 8mm so that we could put the preload adjuster back in the middle of its range (below). The two setups feel identical."
Figure 5. - http://www.sportrider.com/suspension-setup-guide
Sure - it's not wrong (per-se). You've got two ways you *can* change the front ride height. Preload OR fork clamp. As I read that, they lowered the bike by 8mm using the preload. Then they went back to the shop, moved the fork tube up 8mm, and put the preload back in, so maintaining *exactly the same* ride height. What they're saying is that they (and I suspect most of us) can't tell the difference 8mm of preload makes to the bike."Two settings that will feel almost identical: We lowered the front end of this bike during a test using the preload adjuster (above). Back at the shop, we raised the fork tubes in the triple clamps 8mm so that we could put the preload adjuster back in the middle of its range (below). The two setups feel identical."
Figure 5. - http://www.sportrider.com/suspension-setup-guide
If you want to change EITHER preload or fork tube clamping position WITHOUT changing ride height, you must compensate by changing the other in the opposite direction.
If you want to lower the bike, you can EITHER drop the forks through the clamps, OR change the preload (assuming you have sufficient adjustment). The sensible thing would be to just move the forks in the clamps, which has no bearing on the preload - physically how could it...
upsidedownmark said:
What they're saying is that they (and I suspect most of us) can't tell the difference 8mm of preload makes to the bike.
Exactly this. People seem to get really hung up on pre-load, but it's probably the least critical suspension setting, provided front and rear sag are roughly simmilar.Pre-load changes both the ride height of the bike, and the operating point of the suspension (usually about 1/3 compressed is about right). Sliding the forks in the yokes changes the ride height only, if the pre-load was correct before it'll still be correct afterwards.
That would be the bike I would want, sadly it is out of my budget and also his!
StuB said:
Hmmm, Doctor Stu understands your 'mate', we'll call him Mr Impulsive wants a low seat & to wheely for Britain?
The diagnosis is a. Aprilia Tuono v4 APRC, with pipe & chip to make the throttle less snatchy & give the best backing vocals to his mono-wheeling antics.
The diagnosis is a. Aprilia Tuono v4 APRC, with pipe & chip to make the throttle less snatchy & give the best backing vocals to his mono-wheeling antics.
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