Fireblade upgrades/jobs. Help and info please
Discussion
I think most of you know about my bike and how it forever seems to be having money spent on it in terms of maintenance/upgrades as I go. If you don't know about it then it's this >
So really I have quite a few little jobs coming up on it so I am seeking advice/internet strangers to spend my money.
So firstly I have been looking at sorting out the sloppy gear lever which I think is currently being caused by the worn rod ends, now having looked the parts to sort it all come to £50-or so and a S/H lever assy is £30 approx but it's a gamble not knowing if it will be any better!
Naturally this led me to looking at rear sets on ebay and I noticed the price of Danmoto rear sets. Now I know the general consensus of Chinese stuff is steer clear but a few forums from a couple of years back have members rating them well and it is a named brand rather than just being someone that cna pop up and disappear. So are they worth taking a punt on for £95 plus delivery?
Having looked they are made from 6065T6 alu so unless they are too thin etc I can't see how they can be bad? I'd replace any bolts with stuff from work so that's a moot point. Has anyone owned these? Seen them used? Anything to add?
Also shipping from China any idea of any import duties I may need to pay? Google is being a pain and I'm tired (please don't slate me)
Another job I need to do is the CCT as it's starting to get noisy, I don't see the point in taking it apart and attempting to clean it as per a Honda garage's recommendation I may as well do it and know the job is done.
Anybody done one on these engines? Is it a massive ballache?
Is it worth changing to a manual CCT? How often do they need adjusting?
I'm planning to service a spare rear shock I have for the bike too, any known direct bolt up improvements from another model that is worth looking at first or is the standard shock up to scratch providing it's working well (at the moment it's all spring and no damping... whoops)
Enough waffle, fill me with your wisdom oh BB. Spend all the money I don't have on things I may or may not need!
So really I have quite a few little jobs coming up on it so I am seeking advice/internet strangers to spend my money.
So firstly I have been looking at sorting out the sloppy gear lever which I think is currently being caused by the worn rod ends, now having looked the parts to sort it all come to £50-or so and a S/H lever assy is £30 approx but it's a gamble not knowing if it will be any better!
Naturally this led me to looking at rear sets on ebay and I noticed the price of Danmoto rear sets. Now I know the general consensus of Chinese stuff is steer clear but a few forums from a couple of years back have members rating them well and it is a named brand rather than just being someone that cna pop up and disappear. So are they worth taking a punt on for £95 plus delivery?
Having looked they are made from 6065T6 alu so unless they are too thin etc I can't see how they can be bad? I'd replace any bolts with stuff from work so that's a moot point. Has anyone owned these? Seen them used? Anything to add?
Also shipping from China any idea of any import duties I may need to pay? Google is being a pain and I'm tired (please don't slate me)
Another job I need to do is the CCT as it's starting to get noisy, I don't see the point in taking it apart and attempting to clean it as per a Honda garage's recommendation I may as well do it and know the job is done.
Anybody done one on these engines? Is it a massive ballache?
Is it worth changing to a manual CCT? How often do they need adjusting?
I'm planning to service a spare rear shock I have for the bike too, any known direct bolt up improvements from another model that is worth looking at first or is the standard shock up to scratch providing it's working well (at the moment it's all spring and no damping... whoops)
Enough waffle, fill me with your wisdom oh BB. Spend all the money I don't have on things I may or may not need!
Not sure on the quality of the Chinese rearsets but I had a similar problem with my Thunderace and changing the rearsets made the gearbox much better to use as there is no play now in the joints.
I think realistically servicing the standard shock will be fine. Yes a fancy new one will be better but I doubt you'd find any massive issues with standard. One of the track days I did at oulton showed no difference in time after my shock let all of it's oil out compared to when it was fine.
I think realistically servicing the standard shock will be fine. Yes a fancy new one will be better but I doubt you'd find any massive issues with standard. One of the track days I did at oulton showed no difference in time after my shock let all of it's oil out compared to when it was fine.
Im building one at the minute, weve bought the airbox kit, shift detent star kit and few other bits from erion racing in states, 17" front wheel, and currently experimenting with a 2007 fireblade standard but resprung shock to work out damping etc.
We have also bought the danmoto rearsets, ill be honest, the quality doesnt look too bad at all, maybe a bet better than the 100 RP rearsets on ebay..
We have also bought the danmoto rearsets, ill be honest, the quality doesnt look too bad at all, maybe a bet better than the 100 RP rearsets on ebay..
SAS Tom said:
Not sure on the quality of the Chinese rearsets but I had a similar problem with my Thunderace and changing the rearsets made the gearbox much better to use as there is no play now in the joints.
I think realistically servicing the standard shock will be fine. Yes a fancy new one will be better but I doubt you'd find any massive issues with standard. One of the track days I did at oulton showed no difference in time after my shock let all of it's oil out compared to when it was fine.
See I did think it would be fine because realistically it's a 3 way adjustable shock anyway, just wondered if I could find/mount a piggyback shock instead as they are just so much cooler... and because shiny. I think realistically servicing the standard shock will be fine. Yes a fancy new one will be better but I doubt you'd find any massive issues with standard. One of the track days I did at oulton showed no difference in time after my shock let all of it's oil out compared to when it was fine.
Lincsblokey said:
Im building one at the minute, weve bought the airbox kit, shift detent star kit and few other bits from erion racing in states, 17" front wheel, and currently experimenting with a 2007 fireblade standard but resprung shock to work out damping etc.
We have also bought the danmoto rearsets, ill be honest, the quality doesnt look too bad at all, maybe a bet better than the 100 RP rearsets on ebay..
Let me know how you get on with the 2007 shock as I'd be interested in knowing how well it works. We have also bought the danmoto rearsets, ill be honest, the quality doesnt look too bad at all, maybe a bet better than the 100 RP rearsets on ebay..
Glad to hear they sound ok, I'm getting seriously tempted just to take a punt, any idea about any extra charges being put on because of customs/import or whatever it is?
Gecko1978 said:
what car is that in the background...sorry not helpful just interested
It's a Sebring kit car that's used for racing... or should I say will be. I don't know a massive amount about it but I can ask the guy who owns it a few questions if you'd like? I have two manual CCTs. My Honda ones cost ~£80 each and have failed in very short time periods so for reliability and cost I binned the automatic ones.
They're fine to fit, the recommendation is that you look at the chain when the top is off the engine so you can gauge chain deflection more accurately. Plenty of people just seem to fit by feel alone however by waiting for the feel of it touching. Then you start up, and tighten a small amount until the tapping stops, then threadlock and tighten. The chain will get considerably tighter as the oil expands so don't over tighten it on a cold engine. Believe me when I say its better slightly too much slack than not enough.
The standard company to supply is "APE". The end bolt often falls off during vibrations leaving you with no adjustment in a confined space, so I'd recommend Aralditing the end nut on before fitting, or drilling and using lockwire if you can.
If you do it properly, they're very simple and reliable.
ETA: My Honda CCT is held in by two allen bolts. It is possible it is failing because of old oil gumming it up, but my ones were always f
ked when I removed them. I expect you will need to fashion a retaining pin from some old sheet metal and tin snips if you wish to remove and refit as they are spring loaded.
They're fine to fit, the recommendation is that you look at the chain when the top is off the engine so you can gauge chain deflection more accurately. Plenty of people just seem to fit by feel alone however by waiting for the feel of it touching. Then you start up, and tighten a small amount until the tapping stops, then threadlock and tighten. The chain will get considerably tighter as the oil expands so don't over tighten it on a cold engine. Believe me when I say its better slightly too much slack than not enough.
The standard company to supply is "APE". The end bolt often falls off during vibrations leaving you with no adjustment in a confined space, so I'd recommend Aralditing the end nut on before fitting, or drilling and using lockwire if you can.
If you do it properly, they're very simple and reliable.
ETA: My Honda CCT is held in by two allen bolts. It is possible it is failing because of old oil gumming it up, but my ones were always f
ked when I removed them. I expect you will need to fashion a retaining pin from some old sheet metal and tin snips if you wish to remove and refit as they are spring loaded. Edited by Prof Prolapse on Thursday 11th February 11:04
CCT is a piece of cake to change on these. I would just put a new Honda CCT in rather than a manual adjuster, but that's just personal preference. Obviously do not turn the engine over whilst the CCT is removed.
As for the rear shock my bike only had 20k on it but fitting a Nitron shock with an appropriate rate spring gave a massive improvement, easily the biggest single improvement I've made to the bike (coupled with new springs for the forks). The original Showa shock might have damping adjustments, it just made it more or less soggy on mine. It might be possible to get the Showa shock revalved however, which would likely be cheaper.
I'd be interested to see what the Danmoto rearsets are like though. My brother bought some generic Chinese rearsets for his 749 and they were surprisingly well made.
As for the rear shock my bike only had 20k on it but fitting a Nitron shock with an appropriate rate spring gave a massive improvement, easily the biggest single improvement I've made to the bike (coupled with new springs for the forks). The original Showa shock might have damping adjustments, it just made it more or less soggy on mine. It might be possible to get the Showa shock revalved however, which would likely be cheaper.
I'd be interested to see what the Danmoto rearsets are like though. My brother bought some generic Chinese rearsets for his 749 and they were surprisingly well made.
Hmm...
Whoops.
Well good news on the CCT, it sounds like the manual CCT is going to be a bigger ballache than the auto. How advised is it to change the chain and guide at the same time? I know doing it on the cheap isn't the best but it might mean the difference of a trackday before April...
Cheers for all the feedback so far, much appreciated!
I'd probably go for an automatic next time as well.
Why are you looking to change the chain and guides? Unless it's indicated by the manual or you've good reason to suspect it needs done I wouldn't touch it.
I've only done chain and guides it when doing clearances so everything was apart anyway. Someone more experienced will be able to advise if you can just remove the camshaft sprockets and fit with camshafts in place. That would be fairly straight forward if you could.
Alternatively wait until you're doing clearances. It all comes off for that anyway. In fact if you haven't got evidence of this or carb balancing I would make both jobs a priority.
Why are you looking to change the chain and guides? Unless it's indicated by the manual or you've good reason to suspect it needs done I wouldn't touch it.
I've only done chain and guides it when doing clearances so everything was apart anyway. Someone more experienced will be able to advise if you can just remove the camshaft sprockets and fit with camshafts in place. That would be fairly straight forward if you could.
Alternatively wait until you're doing clearances. It all comes off for that anyway. In fact if you haven't got evidence of this or carb balancing I would make both jobs a priority.
Edited by Prof Prolapse on Thursday 11th February 11:59
Prof Prolapse said:
I'd probably go for an automatic next time as well.
Why are you looking to change the chain and guides? Unless it's indicated by the manual or you've good reason to suspect it needs done I wouldn't touch it.
I've only done chain and guides it when doing clearances so everything was apart anyway. Someone more experienced will be able to advise if you can just remove the camshaft sprockets and fit with camshafts in place. That would be fairly straight forward if you could.
Alternatively wait until you're doing clearances. It all comes off for that anyway. In fact if you haven't got evidence of this or carb balancing I would make both jobs a priority.
Valve clearances I have no record of because I changed the engine for a supposed low miler but have no history with. Why are you looking to change the chain and guides? Unless it's indicated by the manual or you've good reason to suspect it needs done I wouldn't touch it.
I've only done chain and guides it when doing clearances so everything was apart anyway. Someone more experienced will be able to advise if you can just remove the camshaft sprockets and fit with camshafts in place. That would be fairly straight forward if you could.
Alternatively wait until you're doing clearances. It all comes off for that anyway. In fact if you haven't got evidence of this or carb balancing I would make both jobs a priority.
Edited by Prof Prolapse on Thursday 11th February 11:59
My only thought for doing chain and guides was "I'm in there anyway". Carb balancing was already on my list it's just getting round to doing it because I need the bike everyday so it makes it a little annoying.
MotorsportTom said:
My only thought for doing chain and guides was "I'm in there anyway".
If you are only changing the CCT then you aren't really "in there", since it's bolted on the outside of the engine.Changing the guides and the chain is unlikely to be needed until the engine has covered significant mileage (50k+) but it's not a particularly big job and access is pretty good. If you remove the front crank case cover on the right hand side it exposes the lower end of the guides. Obviously the cam cover has to come off and I suspect the sprockets will need to be unbolted from the cams to get enough clearance to remove the chain.
As Mike says you won't be near them.
Shame the clearances weren't done on the bench, that's what I intend to do when fitting a new engine to the Honda I blew up
(so perhaps best not take me too seriously). You'll presumably be doing them then?
It's up to you, but I would be looking at making sure the engine is properly serviced, and then checking if things like the brake calipers and drive chain, would benefit from an overhaul. I would also be getting the front shocks serviced at the same time as the rear.
I'm not sure I would spend money anywhere until I knew it was right.
But then again as I said my bike is in pieces. So what do I know?
Shame the clearances weren't done on the bench, that's what I intend to do when fitting a new engine to the Honda I blew up
(so perhaps best not take me too seriously). You'll presumably be doing them then?It's up to you, but I would be looking at making sure the engine is properly serviced, and then checking if things like the brake calipers and drive chain, would benefit from an overhaul. I would also be getting the front shocks serviced at the same time as the rear.
I'm not sure I would spend money anywhere until I knew it was right.
But then again as I said my bike is in pieces. So what do I know?
First off I am not an expert or even a plucky amateur when it comes to mechnics so my advice my be rubbish, however this being the internet that should not stop me dispensing it :-)
Having read variouse magazines over the years the key to impriving performance seems to be adding "lightness" (I think that is a lotusisum). So as you seem to be very handy with the spanners an what not why not go to racebolt online and replace all the screws etc with shiney titanium jobbies 45% lighter should save you a few kilos and they will last a lot longer, then replace the battery with one of the lithium ones (simple to do) they are again 50% lighter.
Neither will be massivly expensive but will reduce weight thus increase Power to weight ratio. Then surely an exhaust is next on the agenda. I have often wondered if the local firms who make there own are better or worse than the big names like Yoshi etc.
Forexample local to me is Predator motorsport and they can make you an exhust from scratch, bound to cost less but perhaps it would be rubbish I just don't know.
But there you go add lightness and you will be happier faster maybe even grow a few inch's
PS thanks for telling me what car it was
Having read variouse magazines over the years the key to impriving performance seems to be adding "lightness" (I think that is a lotusisum). So as you seem to be very handy with the spanners an what not why not go to racebolt online and replace all the screws etc with shiney titanium jobbies 45% lighter should save you a few kilos and they will last a lot longer, then replace the battery with one of the lithium ones (simple to do) they are again 50% lighter.
Neither will be massivly expensive but will reduce weight thus increase Power to weight ratio. Then surely an exhaust is next on the agenda. I have often wondered if the local firms who make there own are better or worse than the big names like Yoshi etc.
Forexample local to me is Predator motorsport and they can make you an exhust from scratch, bound to cost less but perhaps it would be rubbish I just don't know.
But there you go add lightness and you will be happier faster maybe even grow a few inch's
PS thanks for telling me what car it was
Gecko1978 said:
Stuff
Maybe harsh, and I may be getting a whoosh parrot, but none of what you suggest will make any difference you can feel. It might apply to cars but not bikes.The best thing you can 'fit' to a bike are lighter wheels but they are expensive.
Aside from that making sure everything works as it should will be your best 'mod'.
Freshly serviced suspension and clean brake pistons will make all the difference to how the bike feels.
trickywoo said:
Gecko1978 said:
Stuff
Maybe harsh, and I may be getting a whoosh parrot, but none of what you suggest will make any difference you can feel. It might apply to cars but not bikes.The best thing you can 'fit' to a bike are lighter wheels but they are expensive.
Aside from that making sure everything works as it should will be your best 'mod'.
Freshly serviced suspension and clean brake pistons will make all the difference to how the bike feels.
an I agree no point in having shiney stuff if rest of the bike is a dud.
Ah see I haven't even looked into the location of the CCT, just assumed it was an internal component! I wish I had done the clearances on the deck rather than having to think about it in the bike... it may get left a little while, she starts and runs fine so I won't worry too much atm.
Also as for exhaust it already has a full Micron system and I think the carbs have been modded too so no worries chasing power there. It's more about it getting it handling right, and feeling "tight" as such.
Gecko1978 said:
First off I am not an expert or even a plucky amateur when it comes to mechnics so my advice my be rubbish, however this being the internet that should not stop me dispensing it :-)
Having read variouse magazines over the years the key to impriving performance seems to be adding "lightness" (I think that is a lotusisum). So as you seem to be very handy with the spanners an what not why not go to racebolt online and replace all the screws etc with shiney titanium jobbies 45% lighter should save you a few kilos and they will last a lot longer, then replace the battery with one of the lithium ones (simple to do) they are again 50% lighter.
Neither will be massivly expensive but will reduce weight thus increase Power to weight ratio. Then surely an exhaust is next on the agenda. I have often wondered if the local firms who make there own are better or worse than the big names like Yoshi etc.
Forexample local to me is Predator motorsport and they can make you an exhust from scratch, bound to cost less but perhaps it would be rubbish I just don't know.
But there you go add lightness and you will be happier faster maybe even grow a few inch's
PS thanks for telling me what car it was
I'm not trying to make the bike faster as such, and I wouldn't waste money on Ti bolts, I'd rather get a different subframe made up from Ally, get a prepreg carbon kit or similar and do things that way. Having read variouse magazines over the years the key to impriving performance seems to be adding "lightness" (I think that is a lotusisum). So as you seem to be very handy with the spanners an what not why not go to racebolt online and replace all the screws etc with shiney titanium jobbies 45% lighter should save you a few kilos and they will last a lot longer, then replace the battery with one of the lithium ones (simple to do) they are again 50% lighter.
Neither will be massivly expensive but will reduce weight thus increase Power to weight ratio. Then surely an exhaust is next on the agenda. I have often wondered if the local firms who make there own are better or worse than the big names like Yoshi etc.
Forexample local to me is Predator motorsport and they can make you an exhust from scratch, bound to cost less but perhaps it would be rubbish I just don't know.
But there you go add lightness and you will be happier faster maybe even grow a few inch's
PS thanks for telling me what car it was
Also as for exhaust it already has a full Micron system and I think the carbs have been modded too so no worries chasing power there. It's more about it getting it handling right, and feeling "tight" as such.
Hooli said:
BN said:
Part-ex it for a R1
I missed that skimming through a minute ago.
After riding a similar vintage R1 I am aware it's a massively better bike in every way (bar looks for me personally) but the cost and the fact I never want to get rid of this bike means it won't be happening.
Prof Prolapse said:
As Mike says you won't be near them.
Shame the clearances weren't done on the bench, that's what I intend to do when fitting a new engine to the Honda I blew up (so perhaps best not take me too seriously). You'll presumably be doing them then?
It's up to you, but I would be looking at making sure the engine is properly serviced, and then checking if things like the brake calipers and drive chain, would benefit from an overhaul. I would als be getting the front shocks serviced at the same time as the rear.
I'm not sure I would spend money anywhere until I knew it was right.
But then again as I said my bike is in pieces. So what do I know?
The engine has been serviced a couple of times since putting the motor in back in August. Also I have C+S on order already, front brakes were overhauled in Aug too and it had new discs on the front not long ago. Shame the clearances weren't done on the bench, that's what I intend to do when fitting a new engine to the Honda I blew up
(so perhaps best not take me too seriously). You'll presumably be doing them then?It's up to you, but I would be looking at making sure the engine is properly serviced, and then checking if things like the brake calipers and drive chain, would benefit from an overhaul. I would als be getting the front shocks serviced at the same time as the rear.
I'm not sure I would spend money anywhere until I knew it was right.
But then again as I said my bike is in pieces. So what do I know?
I refreshed the fluid and seals in the forks in Aug too.
It's now about making sure everything I haven't already done, is right!
MotorsportTom said:
The engine has been serviced a couple of times since putting the motor in back in August. Also I have C+S on order already, front brakes were overhauled in Aug too and it had new discs on the front not long ago.
I refreshed the fluid and seals in the forks in Aug too.
It's now about making sure everything I haven't already done, is right!
Sounds good! I refreshed the fluid and seals in the forks in Aug too.
It's now about making sure everything I haven't already done, is right!
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