Slow Rising & Dropping Pod

[GV]

Seems as though I the proverbial pod problem. As the title says the N/S pod is rising and dropping at half the speed as the O/S which is fine. Before I take the motor apart could this be a Diode problem inside the switch?

[Jack Valiant]

Andrew trust you are well fella

It will not be the diodes if it is going up and down. Slow operation is usually due to the onset of
bad connection / bad earths causing (high resistance) you will find the cable turning black as it goes off.

Do the the simple stuff first like cleaning up the block connectors and redo the earth connection
on the passenger side front suspension turret. If no change then take the motor out and give it a good clean and exercise
The mechanism as they suffer from lack of use

C

[mrzigazaga]

Maybe the bolts need lubing...

[GV]

GV said:

Seems as though I the proverbial pod problem. As the title says the N/S pod is rising and dropping at half the speed as the O/S which is fine. Before I take the motor apart could this be a Diode problem inside the switch?

Well the latest is that the O/S pod has died with no life in it. The lights work ok. I cleaned all contacts, tested the diode (ok) stripped and cleaned the N/S motor and its still moving slowly. So now I have a slow pod on one side and a dead one on the other!! I'll re-check the fuses although they are the glow type and all look ok. Not happy.

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Andrew..Sounds like a connection fault...Were the wires feeding the units pinned to the bottom of the pod area?...I have had the pod close in the past and pull the wire cos i forgot to cable tie it through the holes at the bottom.

Is the connection at the switch ok?
Relays okay?

I also had no pods but lights after fitting some indicators...A purple and white wire managed to get pulled out of the back of the fuse board...

[GV]

mrzigazaga said:

Hi Andrew..Sounds like a connection fault...Were the wires feeding the units pinned to the bottom of the pod area?...I have had the pod close in the past and pull the wire cos i forgot to cable tie it through the holes at the bottom.

Is the connection at the switch ok?
Relays okay?

I also had no pods but lights after fitting some indicators...A purple and white wire managed to get pulled out of the back of the fuse board...

Hi Mark - I'm going to check the connections again. The N/S motor smelt of burning. so I guess that is shot. The other pod just stopped working...

[RCK974X]

It may just be that the mechanism or motor spindle is gummed up, you could try some good ol' WD40 first. Can you turn motor easily with the knob underneath ??

Then probably a dodgy connection or corrosion is next thing to look for.
If there's a burning smell, is it actually the motor ? Connectors can smell too ...

Worth checking first ...

Then may be motor brushes worn out, but you're into a stripdown by then, so up to you whether to just replace it or have fun taking it to bits.

[Wedg1e]

The spindle can seize in its bushing which will strain the motor. If you're really lucky the armature gets so blackened with vapourised carbon that it won't conduct so the motor jut stops. Alternatively the armature winding burns out. If you can smell smoke it's more usually the latter.
This is apart from the obvious corroded connectors.

[GV]

Wedg1e said:

The spindle can seize in its bushing which will strain the motor. If you're really lucky the armature gets so blackened with vapourised carbon that it won't conduct so the motor jut stops. Alternatively the armature winding burns out. If you can smell smoke it's more usually the latter.
This is apart from the obvious corroded connectors.

The coil winding is totally black no sign of any copper....so time for a replacement then??

[GV]

Well checked through my connections and it was the Earth to the upper front turret that was loose!. However, when running the N/S motor after its strip down it was still slowly moving largely due I think to the carbonised wiring on the armature. Time for a new motor...any good outlets to pick one up?

[mrzigazaga]

Jack Valiant said:

Slow operation is usually due to the onset of
bad connection / bad earths causing (high resistance) you will find the cable turning black as it goes off.

Nail on head....

I broke down yesterday ...(Not me the Wedge)...and called Chris..Mainly because i had arranged to meet him for a cuppa and a chat...Poppy was being a right beach and finally cut out miles from home...Luckily i was near to my mums where i was able to sort it...I had checked the usuals but Chris suggested it sounded like a fuel starvation...An inspection of the wires on the pump revealed that it was the case...Thanks Chris...I was also reprimanded for not doing it once and doing it right...Which Chris always advocates and is right as i have done this three times now...

Its good you found the fault...Exchange motors are available.
https://www.robsport.co.uk/index.php/ct-menu-item-...

Or if you are apt enough then they can be re-built.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...

Strip down...This will need to be downloaded.
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/images/Lucas%20Pod%2...

Hows the paint now?...


Cheers


Ziga

[GV]

mrzigazaga said:

Nail on head....

I broke down yesterday ...(Not me the Wedge)...and called Chris..Mainly because i had arranged to meet him for a cuppa and a chat...Poppy was being a right beach and finally cut out miles from home...Luckily i was near to my mums where i was able to sort it...I had checked the usuals but Chris suggested it sounded like a fuel starvation...An inspection of the wires on the pump revealed that it was the case...Thanks Chris...I was also reprimanded for not doing it once and doing it right...Which Chris always advocates and is right as i have done this three times now...

Its good you found the fault...Exchange motors are available.
https://www.robsport.co.uk/index.php/ct-menu-item-...

Or if you are apt enough then they can be re-built.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...

Strip down...This will need to be downloaded.
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/images/Lucas%20Pod%2...

Hows the paint now?...


Cheers


Ziga

Rest of car looks good...the bonnet needs to go back because I tried to touch in some cracks and reactions that should have been dealt with at the paint shop. To be fair they did say bring the car back but that would have meant another long wait. There were other reactions that I did sort out successfully without any trouble but the bonnet has always had reactions in the same place. So I will strip it back, prime it and let the paint shop put on the base and clear. Target date for on the road is now end of May!!

Is Poppy up and running now?

[mrzigazaga]

GV said:

Is Poppy up and running now?

Normal service was resumed but need to sort the wire out properly...

[RCK974X]

GV said:

Well checked through my connections and it was the Earth to the upper front turret that was loose!. However, when running the N/S motor after its strip down it was still slowly moving largely due I think to the carbonised wiring on the armature. Time for a new motor...any good outlets to pick one up?

If you don't mind some strip down work, you can try cleaning motor armature with some fine wet and dry (say 400 grit), and get some new brushes for it (standard Lucas wiper motor)...... It's not that hard, and copper should start appearing. Don't forget to clean between the pads with a watchmakers screwdriver or fine point.

[Wedg1e]

Jack Valiant said:

you will find the cable turning black as it goes off.

If I understand correctly, this is a reference to those times when you strip wire insulation off and find the copper strands have turned black.
When this happens you can try and solder to it until you're black in the face but it won't work.
There are two options (apart from replacing the wire): separate the strands and use some fine abrasive paper to literally rub the corrosion off or, usually quicker, dip the strands in some traditional plumber's flux and play a flame over it (blowtorch, cig lighter... I use a Weller gas iron with the soldering tip unscrewed). This burns off the crud in the same way as it does on pipework and you can then get a half-decent joint.

[GV]

Wedg1e said:

If I understand correctly, this is a reference to those times when you strip wire insulation off and find the copper strands have turned black.
When this happens you can try and solder to it until you're black in the face but it won't work.
There are two options (apart from replacing the wire): separate the strands and use some fine abrasive paper to literally rub the corrosion off or, usually quicker, dip the strands in some traditional plumber's flux and play a flame over it (blowtorch, cig lighter... I use a Weller gas iron with the soldering tip unscrewed). This burns off the crud in the same way as it does on pipework and you can then get a half-decent joint.

I'm going to change the motor - attempting an alternative option too...

[mrzigazaga]

GV said:

I'm going to change the motor - attempting an alternative option too...

What like a manual cable that you pull to operate the lights that have a small strut on them and a magnetic catch that clicks open and closed..

[GV]

mrzigazaga said:

What like a manual cable that you pull to operate the lights that have a small strut on them and a magnetic catch that clicks open and closed..

I've got a deal on 2 goblins....they will live in each pod and carry out other service related jobs when needed....

Edited by GV on Tuesday 3rd May 19:04

[Wedg1e]

GV said:

I'm going to change the motor - attempting an alternative option too...

I seem to recall a discussion many years ago with a mate who had a [spit] Porsche 924; the pods on that were linked together and lifted by one motor. An efficient German motor, one that was properly designed to do the job not butchered out of something from the BL archives.
One wonders how hard it'd be to emulate that, given that there's enough space in the nose of a Wedge to house an entire family of migrant 'asylum seekers'