Removing exhaust downpipes to do oil change
Discussion
Prof Prolapse said:
It's good that he's using those wk Halfords "professional" screwdrivers they gave away with oil. I've got two sets, they're easily the sttest metal I've ever had in hand tools.
From experience, Halfords 'Professional' Socket set = Very good.Halfords 'Professional' Screwdrivers = Like cheese, only softer.. (rubbish!)
Fire99 said:
Prof Prolapse said:
It's good that he's using those wk Halfords "professional" screwdrivers they gave away with oil. I've got two sets, they're easily the sttest metal I've ever had in hand tools.
From experience, Halfords 'Professional' Socket set = Very good.Halfords 'Professional' Screwdrivers = Like cheese, only softer.. (rubbish!)
Fire99 said:
Prof Prolapse said:
It's good that he's using those wk Halfords "professional" screwdrivers they gave away with oil. I've got two sets, they're easily the sttest metal I've ever had in hand tools.
From experience, Halfords 'Professional' Socket set = Very good.Halfords 'Professional' Screwdrivers = Like cheese, only softer.. (rubbish!)
Prof Prolapse said:
It's good that he's using those wk Halfords "professional" screwdrivers they gave away with oil. I've got two sets, they're easily the sttest metal I've ever had in hand tools.
Those Halfords screwdrivers are all pozi drive and hence useless for gripping the standard philips screw heads found all over motorbikes.Use them correctly, ie. on flat pack furniture and they are fine
pozi said:
Those Halfords screwdrivers are all pozi drive and hence useless for gripping the standard philips screw heads found all over motorbikes.
Use them correctly, ie. on flat pack furniture and they are fine
I thought Phillips is the old one, new stuff is (Phillips) Pozi isn't it?Use them correctly, ie. on flat pack furniture and they are fine
Case in point, a Jap bike could also be "JIP" or whatever it's called?
fking minefield, I just use Pozi on everything unless the torque gets high.
Prof Prolapse said:
pozi said:
Those Halfords screwdrivers are all pozi drive and hence useless for gripping the standard philips screw heads found all over motorbikes.
Use them correctly, ie. on flat pack furniture and they are fine
I thought Phillips is the old one, new stuff is (Phillips) Pozi isn't it?Use them correctly, ie. on flat pack furniture and they are fine
Case in point, a Jap bike could also be "JIP" or whatever it's called?
fking minefield, I just use Pozi on everything unless the torque gets high.
Good point about JIS, it is sort of phillips but not quite.
Picture tells a 1000 words and all that...
Had a closer look this afternoon and it is pretty tight down there:
If I do need to take the headers off or even slacken them / take the springs off the link pipe and give myself a bit more room - what order would i do that in (bearing in mind I'd want to run the engine up to temperature before dropping the oil out of it but don't want to be trying to take header bolts out whist it's hot down there) ? I presume slacken the bolts, run up to temp then remove bolts, drop oil or would you run up to temp, turn engine off, take sump plug out, drop the oil and then once cool, take the filter off (gaining access along the way) ?
Thanks....
If I do need to take the headers off or even slacken them / take the springs off the link pipe and give myself a bit more room - what order would i do that in (bearing in mind I'd want to run the engine up to temperature before dropping the oil out of it but don't want to be trying to take header bolts out whist it's hot down there) ? I presume slacken the bolts, run up to temp then remove bolts, drop oil or would you run up to temp, turn engine off, take sump plug out, drop the oil and then once cool, take the filter off (gaining access along the way) ?
Thanks....
obscene said:
That doesn't look too bad if I'm honest. You could just about get an oil filter tool in there if it's done up tight.
K&N filter too so has a nut welded to it, so if you can pass an extension bar through a gap in the headers (hard to tell if there's room) you should be able to get it out? Just degrease the exhaust well afterwards as otherwise the oil will burn on!Just to close this off, I left the headers in place and removed the end-can, link pipe and the tension springs so as to give myself a bit of wiggle room. The oil filter "just" unscrewed and I managed to get it off. I've replaced the K&N filter with the nut on the end with a HiFlo filter which has no nut on the end (I'm not wire locking it anyway) so as long as the HiFlo filter isn't total mince, it should mean the next oil change requires no removal of exhausts etc.
If anyone recommends a "better" oil filter (but with no nut on the end), please shout
If anyone recommends a "better" oil filter (but with no nut on the end), please shout
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