Caliper rebuild, fill & bleed - how much?
Discussion
For single pot calipers say 30 - 45 mins a side - remove pads, pump piston out, remove seals, clean and put back in (new seals probably not required). Bit of fluid to replace and bleed. Depends on what your garage charges for labour, alternatively new calipers from euro car parts are around £130 for cooking models.
If you've got 10 minutes it'll probably be cheaper stripping the calipers off the bike yourself and sending them to a dedicated caliper refurb place, then if you still want to drop it into a garage to finish the job you won't be paying too much in hourly labour to fit, fill and bleed.
I've had 4 piston Tokikos for a ZZR1100 and and SV1000 done by these people:
http://www.powerhouse.uk/content/motorcycle-brakes...
From memory they were £120-130 for a full refurb (including painting a colour of your choice).
No connection with the business, but an excellent service from them on both occasions, and I'd happily go to them again.
Cheers,
Tom
http://www.powerhouse.uk/content/motorcycle-brakes...
From memory they were £120-130 for a full refurb (including painting a colour of your choice).
No connection with the business, but an excellent service from them on both occasions, and I'd happily go to them again.
Cheers,
Tom
You can get fully refurbished (including being painted) calipers off eBay for £155 exchange.
I can see how a rebuild looks daunting but it's actually pretty easy and quite satisfying. The torque specs are readily available online as are how too guides.
Id be surprised if you need new seals but it's recommended to at least have new caliper half seals which often aren't included in a piston seal set.
I can see how a rebuild looks daunting but it's actually pretty easy and quite satisfying. The torque specs are readily available online as are how too guides.
Id be surprised if you need new seals but it's recommended to at least have new caliper half seals which often aren't included in a piston seal set.
trickywoo said:
I've had good success pushing pistons out with a normal pump (floor style in my case). Its good for monoblock designs where you can't get pliers in easily.
If you take the head off just leaving the rubber tube its easy to get a good seal by hand.
Easy if the pistons aren't seized, if they are then compressed air is a complete waste of time.If you take the head off just leaving the rubber tube its easy to get a good seal by hand.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
You tend to get corrosion in the slot that the seals sit. This pushes the seal outward and then it acts almost as a one way device. You can pull out the dust seal (first one you can see) as this is where the problem typically is, as a temporary measure if you're feeling a bit of an animal. trickywoo said:
I've had good success pushing pistons out with a normal pump (floor style in my case). Its good for monoblock designs where you can't get pliers in easily.
If you take the head off just leaving the rubber tube its easy to get a good seal by hand.
When I did my rear, I used 12v tyre pump and some elastic bands to make a seal. Much easier on a non-seized single piston set up though.If you take the head off just leaving the rubber tube its easy to get a good seal by hand.
All went well until I crushed my finger between the caliper body and the piston and had no way to get it back in. I was sat in my footwell shouting and flailing.
Quite a satisfying thing rebuilding a sticky caliper though I felt.
Powerhouse offer a swap service, you order a set of reconed calipers from them and pay a £40 deposit once you've had the new ones fitted send them your old ones and you get the deposit back so no down time.
Be aware though their gold finish isn't very hardy when it comes to brake fluid, they forget to mention that in their adverts.
Be aware though their gold finish isn't very hardy when it comes to brake fluid, they forget to mention that in their adverts.
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