Caliper rebuild, fill & bleed - how much?
Discussion
TTN, I know a very good mobile mechanic who specialises in Suzuki's. He rebuild my first GSX-R (K7 600) after an unfortunate incident involving a tax, a U-turn and a one way street. He also helped me out with a stripped drain plug on my first Monster.
He covers the South East, so may be worth giving him a ring?
http://premiermotorcycleserviceandrepair.co.uk/
Ollie is a very decent guy and very reasonable in prices. As he is mobile he can come to you.
He covers the South East, so may be worth giving him a ring?
http://premiermotorcycleserviceandrepair.co.uk/
Ollie is a very decent guy and very reasonable in prices. As he is mobile he can come to you.
Try www.mailorderrepairs.co.uk
I use them a lot for all my bikes, great service and James turns them round very quickly.
I use them a lot for all my bikes, great service and James turns them round very quickly.
anonymous said:
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Ok you're in East London as am I. Is the bike rideable? Details like your bike and location on your original post would have got you information a hell of lot quicker! 
Ok if you still want decent but not expensive recommended places to help:
You could try riverbank motorcycles just off the A12 north of the blackwall tunnel near the Bow interchange. They do MOT and all servicing.
Riverbank Motor Cycles Ltd
12, Dye House Ln
020 8983 4896
I use FWR (www.fwr.co.uk) for all my servicing and of course tyres, they are in Kennington - they will sort you out too. Obviously its further but its about 10mins from my office in central London hence I use them.
anonymous said:
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Having rebuilt a set of Tokicos just like yours I don't understand your question but I'll try to answer.One of the seals has a v profile, this needs to be facing out so you can see it when fitted.
It'll make more sense when you have the seals in hand as it'll naturally only want to sit the right way otherwise It'll be like you've got it inside out.
The caliper half seals sit in a very shallow recess so be careful to ensure the halves don't pinch it when you put them back together.
I undid the caliper half bolts with a soft vice off the bike but if you don't have one you can reach through the spokes from the far side with an extension bar to undo them while still mounted. Same goes for torquing them up again.
they grip the inside of the piston, they do mark it but that part doesn't matter. Try it with normal pillars and you could damage the piston that will in turn f
k the seal. A few have made that mistake on here.
I've done it in the past with pillars. But wouldn't again its a pain in the arse.
k the seal. A few have made that mistake on here.I've done it in the past with pillars. But wouldn't again its a pain in the arse.
yes, you can. I have done in the past but I've always put a nick at the top, which you get away with but its really not worth fking about with the wrong tool for the job.
A guy on here done it, fked a piston seal and had to buy a new one. + in time and effort and possible new pads if the leaks bad its just not worth it.
They aren't cheap...I think motorsport tom got them made up that's how dear they were and even after getting the size wrong and doing another set he was still cheaper than buying new.
Also if its been in for years, they are a bd to get out and C/A only works till one fires out.
king about with the wrong tool for the job.A guy on here done it, f
ked a piston seal and had to buy a new one. + in time and effort and possible new pads if the leaks bad its just not worth it.They aren't cheap...I think motorsport tom got them made up that's how dear they were and even after getting the size wrong and doing another set he was still cheaper than buying new.
Also if its been in for years, they are a b
d to get out and C/A only works till one fires out. anonymous said:
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Its quite easy to scratch the coating with normal pliers. I've never come across a properly stuck piston and normally you can use the hydraulics with them still fitted to force them out a good way so you can then get them out with fingers.Internal piston pliers will save you grief if any of the pistons are stuck.
Nice job, I only wish my pistons were as clean as yours!! 
This is what mine looked like about 9 months ago (this was AFTER cleaning!) when I rebuilt the brakes (same as you, full strip down), the bike is on around 37k miles at the moment.
Before winter I may order a full set of brand new pistons and seals and get them properly rebuilt.
This was them before rebuilding, for anyone who likes horror pictures
This is what mine looked like about 9 months ago (this was AFTER cleaning!) when I rebuilt the brakes (same as you, full strip down), the bike is on around 37k miles at the moment.
Before winter I may order a full set of brand new pistons and seals and get them properly rebuilt.
This was them before rebuilding, for anyone who likes horror pictures
New pads on old disks always makes the lever feel spongey to start with, as long as the bike actually stops ie. lever does not come back to the bars and you go sailing into junctions, I would give it a few miles to bed in properly before thinking you have done anything drastically wrong.
If you are using new pads on an old worn disc you can get a spongy feeling as described. You could bevel the top and bottom edges of the pads with a grinder if you were real fussy - my discs are 50k miles old and obviously on their wear limits but a few hard stops soon sorts them out (then they're a git to get off for wheel changes!).
Don't forget the old tie-up-the-brakes-overnight trick with a bungee / cable tie. Best done on the sidestand / leant against a wall to get the last air bubbles up through an 'open' master cylinder into the resevoir.
Don't forget the old tie-up-the-brakes-overnight trick with a bungee / cable tie. Best done on the sidestand / leant against a wall to get the last air bubbles up through an 'open' master cylinder into the resevoir.
moto_traxport said:
If you are using new pads on an old worn disc you can get a spongy feeling as described. You could bevel the top and bottom edges of the pads with a grinder if you were real fussy - my discs are 50k miles old and obviously on their wear limits but a few hard stops soon sorts them out (then they're a git to get off for wheel changes!).
Don't forget the old tie-up-the-brakes-overnight trick with a bungee / cable tie. Best done on the sidestand / leant against a wall to get the last air bubbles up through an 'open' master cylinder into the resevoir.
I think you will find pulling on the brake lever closes the reservoir circuit, otherwise your brake lever would not pump fluid into the brake calipers Don't forget the old tie-up-the-brakes-overnight trick with a bungee / cable tie. Best done on the sidestand / leant against a wall to get the last air bubbles up through an 'open' master cylinder into the resevoir.
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