7000 miles, 5 weeks, one rider, one bike, one Europe.
Discussion
Day 2
I set off on my first full day with a view to getting to just outside Paris. Despite a late start, it looked possible on the map to get there before sunset, just taking D and N roads. I would soon learn that any two points on the map were in reality 3x further apart than they appeared.
The weather had not abated overnight. It was still windy, rainy and miserable. All part of the adventure! I packed up camp, and came up with wayofsecuringmybags v2. Having quickly learned the night before that having a roll mat exposed on the bike in the rain means a wet night’s sleep, I decided to actually try and put it in one of my bags. Clever. Packing and securing the bags in a way that they would not immediately fall off at the first corner took, as on the first day, an inconceivably long amount of time. But eventually I was ready to ride, even wearing waterproofs this time.
I took the D and N roads in the direction of Amiens, which would serve as my mid-afternoon stop. Halfway there it occurs to me that I hadn’t had any water or proper food in 24 hours, so true to form, I pulled over at the first Lidl. On the cheap, remember. It’s quite bizarre going into a supermarket that is 95% familiar, in the same layout as you are used to back home, but nearly all the products are almost but not quite the same. Same chocolate, same fruit juice, but the bread becomes croissants and the French cheese becomes... French cheese. Ok, maybe it’s the same after all.
Five croissants a day
Fully stocked up with carbs and water, I devour them in the car park. God knows what the poor French families were thinking. “Why is that mad, unwashed Englishman devouring a still-packaged sausage in the car park, papa?”. “I don’t know ma cherie, but just keep on walking”. I probably shouldn’t have indulged, but it was fun making eye contact with them as I ate. Some looked genuinely alarmed. Well, the referendum was coming up, so I had to do my best to strengthen diplomatic ties.
Fully refreshed, I made good progress towards Amiens. Although it was still drizzling, the roads were excellent, and some of the views from the hills were possibly stunning, had I been able to see them. When I used to think of northern France, it was always the image of endless flat fields, framed by grey drizzle that came to mind. Ok, it still does. But now I know that there are some areas of real natural beauty there, with the added bonus of great roads! And – take note, Highways Agency/DoT – roads that were in good condition! Not to mention French drivers. In England, come up behind a car doing the speed limit, and you’d be doing well to be noticed after five minutes. In France, they positively launch themselves out of the way to let you pass. Sometimes it isn’t actually all that helpful, but you can’t fault their enthusiasm. It really was noticeable and made riding even more enjoyable and quicker than in England. Another thing that is clearly noticeable is that while the UK and France have similar populations, France is twice as big. The roads are comparatively empty. Even in the drizzle, I was having a blast!
After whizzing through Desvres and Frévent, I finally arrive at Amiens, about six hours behind schedule. A theme that is to continue for the next five weeks.
Deciding that perhaps, on reflection, it would actually be a good idea to look for a campsite before I need to go to bed, I hunt out what is to be the Holy Grail for the trip – free wifi! Eventually, I am forced to go to Quick – a rip off Burger King with no redeeming features. Except for free wifi.
Good parking
That done, as I go to leave Amiens, I spot the cathedral. Then I vaguely recall that it is a world-famous UNESCO World Heritage site. Better take a look then! Then I encountered the only consistent irritation of the trip – what to do with my bags when wandering around a city. Deciding that I would actually be very impressed if someone could untangle the web of straps and bungee cords in the hour I would take, and truthfully savouring the thought of not having to tie them up again, I left the bags on the bike and explored.
It’s big, bold and beautiful. Inconceivable to think that it was completed in 1270. From the outside, the sheer size and attention to detail was stunning. Then you go inside, and it's just as impressive. Then a quick wander around the grounds and an explore of the charming environs before jumping back on the bike.
Colourful
Having by now found a campsite, I head in the direction of Beauvais. Paris would have to wait. More good, smooth roads, and then I arrive at the campsite. Deserted. I wander in, paddling the bike to avoid an embarrassing moment. The Metzeler M7RRs, great tyres though they are, are not designed for riding on slick wet grass. Nor for touring for that matter, but more on that later. Eventually, la guardienne comes out to see who’s making all the noise. I pull out my best puss in boots face to guarantee a pitch (it’s deserted but I’m taking no chances). She says to park up “là bas” and await her husband’s arrival.
Duly following my orders, I head over to the driest looking part of the field. And immediately get stuck. Hiding in the long grass was a massive wooden log, which my exhaust manifold is now beached on. I’m wet, tired and impatient to shower. And now stuck. This does not please me. But fortunately, her husband, a much more amiable character, soon arrives and lends me a hand. Then he points out that no-one else is staying on the site (I’d noticed), and that in fact, they have a spare... dry... room... with fixed roof... that I could spend the night in. Ye gods, all my Christmases had come at once! It was no more than an empty common room, but that made no odds to me. Result.
Luxury
He left me to it, and I enjoyed my first shower in 36 hours, and it was wonderful. Then I settled down for a nice early night. Except for the fact that was a flock of geese outside the window making a racket. And a donkey. Two donkeys. No, that looks like three donkeys right outside the window as well. I didn’t even ask.
Why
Around midnight they went quiet, and I enjoyed the first warm, dry sleep of the trip.
I set off on my first full day with a view to getting to just outside Paris. Despite a late start, it looked possible on the map to get there before sunset, just taking D and N roads. I would soon learn that any two points on the map were in reality 3x further apart than they appeared.
The weather had not abated overnight. It was still windy, rainy and miserable. All part of the adventure! I packed up camp, and came up with wayofsecuringmybags v2. Having quickly learned the night before that having a roll mat exposed on the bike in the rain means a wet night’s sleep, I decided to actually try and put it in one of my bags. Clever. Packing and securing the bags in a way that they would not immediately fall off at the first corner took, as on the first day, an inconceivably long amount of time. But eventually I was ready to ride, even wearing waterproofs this time.
I took the D and N roads in the direction of Amiens, which would serve as my mid-afternoon stop. Halfway there it occurs to me that I hadn’t had any water or proper food in 24 hours, so true to form, I pulled over at the first Lidl. On the cheap, remember. It’s quite bizarre going into a supermarket that is 95% familiar, in the same layout as you are used to back home, but nearly all the products are almost but not quite the same. Same chocolate, same fruit juice, but the bread becomes croissants and the French cheese becomes... French cheese. Ok, maybe it’s the same after all.
Five croissants a day
Fully stocked up with carbs and water, I devour them in the car park. God knows what the poor French families were thinking. “Why is that mad, unwashed Englishman devouring a still-packaged sausage in the car park, papa?”. “I don’t know ma cherie, but just keep on walking”. I probably shouldn’t have indulged, but it was fun making eye contact with them as I ate. Some looked genuinely alarmed. Well, the referendum was coming up, so I had to do my best to strengthen diplomatic ties.
Fully refreshed, I made good progress towards Amiens. Although it was still drizzling, the roads were excellent, and some of the views from the hills were possibly stunning, had I been able to see them. When I used to think of northern France, it was always the image of endless flat fields, framed by grey drizzle that came to mind. Ok, it still does. But now I know that there are some areas of real natural beauty there, with the added bonus of great roads! And – take note, Highways Agency/DoT – roads that were in good condition! Not to mention French drivers. In England, come up behind a car doing the speed limit, and you’d be doing well to be noticed after five minutes. In France, they positively launch themselves out of the way to let you pass. Sometimes it isn’t actually all that helpful, but you can’t fault their enthusiasm. It really was noticeable and made riding even more enjoyable and quicker than in England. Another thing that is clearly noticeable is that while the UK and France have similar populations, France is twice as big. The roads are comparatively empty. Even in the drizzle, I was having a blast!
After whizzing through Desvres and Frévent, I finally arrive at Amiens, about six hours behind schedule. A theme that is to continue for the next five weeks.
Deciding that perhaps, on reflection, it would actually be a good idea to look for a campsite before I need to go to bed, I hunt out what is to be the Holy Grail for the trip – free wifi! Eventually, I am forced to go to Quick – a rip off Burger King with no redeeming features. Except for free wifi.
Good parking
That done, as I go to leave Amiens, I spot the cathedral. Then I vaguely recall that it is a world-famous UNESCO World Heritage site. Better take a look then! Then I encountered the only consistent irritation of the trip – what to do with my bags when wandering around a city. Deciding that I would actually be very impressed if someone could untangle the web of straps and bungee cords in the hour I would take, and truthfully savouring the thought of not having to tie them up again, I left the bags on the bike and explored.
It’s big, bold and beautiful. Inconceivable to think that it was completed in 1270. From the outside, the sheer size and attention to detail was stunning. Then you go inside, and it's just as impressive. Then a quick wander around the grounds and an explore of the charming environs before jumping back on the bike.
Colourful
Having by now found a campsite, I head in the direction of Beauvais. Paris would have to wait. More good, smooth roads, and then I arrive at the campsite. Deserted. I wander in, paddling the bike to avoid an embarrassing moment. The Metzeler M7RRs, great tyres though they are, are not designed for riding on slick wet grass. Nor for touring for that matter, but more on that later. Eventually, la guardienne comes out to see who’s making all the noise. I pull out my best puss in boots face to guarantee a pitch (it’s deserted but I’m taking no chances). She says to park up “là bas” and await her husband’s arrival.
Duly following my orders, I head over to the driest looking part of the field. And immediately get stuck. Hiding in the long grass was a massive wooden log, which my exhaust manifold is now beached on. I’m wet, tired and impatient to shower. And now stuck. This does not please me. But fortunately, her husband, a much more amiable character, soon arrives and lends me a hand. Then he points out that no-one else is staying on the site (I’d noticed), and that in fact, they have a spare... dry... room... with fixed roof... that I could spend the night in. Ye gods, all my Christmases had come at once! It was no more than an empty common room, but that made no odds to me. Result.
Luxury
He left me to it, and I enjoyed my first shower in 36 hours, and it was wonderful. Then I settled down for a nice early night. Except for the fact that was a flock of geese outside the window making a racket. And a donkey. Two donkeys. No, that looks like three donkeys right outside the window as well. I didn’t even ask.
Why
Around midnight they went quiet, and I enjoyed the first warm, dry sleep of the trip.
Edited by Deranged Granny on Wednesday 20th July 12:27
Edited by Deranged Granny on Saturday 27th April 16:13
Great stuff!
Half of my family is from Picardy, we still have a house in Le Crotoy. It's 80% of the time a miserable place, grey and wet but people are friendly if a little coarse. I love the place in winter.
Beauvais is a nice place too. Still considered as Picardy. I used to go there every 2 or 3 weeks or so when I was working in agriculture machinery as it is now the global HQ and main tractors factory of Massey Ferguson.
Looking forward to the rest.
Half of my family is from Picardy, we still have a house in Le Crotoy. It's 80% of the time a miserable place, grey and wet but people are friendly if a little coarse. I love the place in winter.
Beauvais is a nice place too. Still considered as Picardy. I used to go there every 2 or 3 weeks or so when I was working in agriculture machinery as it is now the global HQ and main tractors factory of Massey Ferguson.
Looking forward to the rest.
Loving the updates.
Came across this on the tube last night: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YX1yOVskQow pretty entertaining.
Came across this on the tube last night: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YX1yOVskQow pretty entertaining.
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