Part 2 - ignition fuse sometimes blows when starting
Discussion
Following on from my previous thread where my bike just stopped working, an ignition fuse replacement got it going again but it again blew the fuse at the side of the road.
Fast forward a month, I've checked the wiring and every time I do a little fix it will work for a quick test ride, start up again in a few days but randomly blow the fuse the next time I go to start.
I've narrowed it down to the ignition fuse blowing as soon as I hit the starter button, just as the engine begins to turn (but this doesn't explain why it's blown in the middle of riding in the past).
Here's a circuit diagram of the components on that circuit: http://faq.ninja250.org/images/0/07/Start_%26_Igni...
Where do I go from here, PH?
Fast forward a month, I've checked the wiring and every time I do a little fix it will work for a quick test ride, start up again in a few days but randomly blow the fuse the next time I go to start.
I've narrowed it down to the ignition fuse blowing as soon as I hit the starter button, just as the engine begins to turn (but this doesn't explain why it's blown in the middle of riding in the past).
Here's a circuit diagram of the components on that circuit: http://faq.ninja250.org/images/0/07/Start_%26_Igni...
Where do I go from here, PH?
Edited by .blue on Friday 30th September 07:41
Edited by .blue on Friday 30th September 07:44
Edited by .blue on Friday 30th September 09:02
My response to almost all “strange” happenings with electrics on older bikes is dodgy earth. I couldn’t say where, and it’s likely to be in more than one place, but I suspect that the earth connections to the frame need to be improved. Clean up each and all of the earth points, ensuring a good connection, and see if that gets rid of the problem.
I'm definately no electrical expert OP, I can only use the basic functions of a multimeter.
As for most faults I'd try the dedicated forum to see if this is a common fault.
Then I'd be giving the wiring a very good visual check, starting from the starter switch, looking for a wire with damaged insulation.
As k1 said, I'd be cleaning the earths and joining plugs as I went. Halfords and maplins sell switch cleaning fluid, it may be worth a try.
Do you know anyone local with a similar bike so you can try swapping components?
Of course , it could be a faulty brake bulb. Electrics will make a
of you.
As for most faults I'd try the dedicated forum to see if this is a common fault.
Then I'd be giving the wiring a very good visual check, starting from the starter switch, looking for a wire with damaged insulation.
As k1 said, I'd be cleaning the earths and joining plugs as I went. Halfords and maplins sell switch cleaning fluid, it may be worth a try.
Do you know anyone local with a similar bike so you can try swapping components?
Of course , it could be a faulty brake bulb. Electrics will make a
of you. .blue said:
D'oh! Ignition fuse. Updated my first post too.
Presumably the 10A 'Fuse 3' on the diagram and not the 30A main fuse then.As mentioned first check earths and connections, especially for the starter components (solenoid, motor etc.) presumably the starter motor is earthed through it's body? so check the main earth from the battery.
Don't know how the solenoid is setup but is it possible that the cable either to it from the battery and from it to the starter could be loose and arcing causing resistance or touching something earthed? I've seen similar happen.
Also worth checking the starter cables are not corroded, my 916 got slower at cranking over due to the (undersized) starter cables deteriorating over time and the terminal on the starter motor corroding, it didn't blow any fuse but could have progressed to that eventually. I fitted better, heavier-duty cables for battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter and battery to earth and it spins over much quicker.
So today I found out:
- The starter motor is really awkward to remove, I started trying but stopped as I don't think I'd be able to put it back in even if I did take it out.
- The indicators stopped working for a bit and I had to wiggle the key in the ignition to get them to work. When I then started the bike, the fuse blew immediately. Does this mean that the ignition bit where the key goes in is likely to have a short? There's nothing in the manual about how to remove that - any tips?
- The ground on the ignition circuit looks like this, presumably this is fine?
Edited by .blue on Sunday 2nd October 20:26
I think I've fixed it. After the fuse blew, I openeded the connectors to clean the pins inside each one and as I was doing that, engine made an attempt to turn over/crank. (I had forgotten to turn the ignition off...).
I have no idea how that happened with the ignition fuse blown - maybe rubbing a metal brush energised the circuit?! I'm starting to believe electrics are more magic than physics.
So 50% sure it's fixed. Time will tell if the fuse blows again...
If anyone can explain how this might have happened, I'm interested to learn more about electrics.
I have no idea how that happened with the ignition fuse blown - maybe rubbing a metal brush energised the circuit?! I'm starting to believe electrics are more magic than physics.
So 50% sure it's fixed. Time will tell if the fuse blows again...
If anyone can explain how this might have happened, I'm interested to learn more about electrics.
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