Motorbike jumpstart battery pack
Discussion
Morning all
My CBR600RR's battery is playing up, mainly due to the Datatool System 3 alarm that is draining power; and although I keep it on an Oxford trickle charger, I still find myself having to bumpstart the thing. Thankfully we live on a slight hill, but it's bloody annoying... and this weekend, even after a 1.5hr ride, I still had to bumpstart it after a coffee stop, and then wait for the RAC shortly after due to stalling at a roundabout
I just don't think the battery is able to charge fully with the alarm draining the power constantly.
So I've been looking at little 'smartphone-sized' battery packs that you can use to jumpstart flat batteries. They're supposed to be good for starting cars, so will be more than suitable for my little RR.
But there's quite a few on the market ranging from £30 to £100+, and seeing I'm going to be paying to get the stoopid alarm ripped out of my loom; I don't want to spend a fortune.
I like the idea of a little powerpack that I can charge up the night before, and stick under my pillion seat incase I (or a fellow biker) need a jump.
So I was just wondering if anyone has and can recommend one that they use for their bike?
(My friend's got one of the £100+ units, but he's got a fancypants battery that he didn't want to risk with a cheaper unit. I'm not that fussy)
Examples I'm looking at:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01HLV3I9A/ref=wl_it_d...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013UBRZUS/ref=wl_it_d...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01DLRGY8A/ref=wl_it_d...
I mean, she does look lovely parked up at the side of the road waiting for the RAC... but I'd rather be riding.
My CBR600RR's battery is playing up, mainly due to the Datatool System 3 alarm that is draining power; and although I keep it on an Oxford trickle charger, I still find myself having to bumpstart the thing. Thankfully we live on a slight hill, but it's bloody annoying... and this weekend, even after a 1.5hr ride, I still had to bumpstart it after a coffee stop, and then wait for the RAC shortly after due to stalling at a roundabout
I just don't think the battery is able to charge fully with the alarm draining the power constantly.
So I've been looking at little 'smartphone-sized' battery packs that you can use to jumpstart flat batteries. They're supposed to be good for starting cars, so will be more than suitable for my little RR.
But there's quite a few on the market ranging from £30 to £100+, and seeing I'm going to be paying to get the stoopid alarm ripped out of my loom; I don't want to spend a fortune.
I like the idea of a little powerpack that I can charge up the night before, and stick under my pillion seat incase I (or a fellow biker) need a jump.
So I was just wondering if anyone has and can recommend one that they use for their bike?
(My friend's got one of the £100+ units, but he's got a fancypants battery that he didn't want to risk with a cheaper unit. I'm not that fussy)
Examples I'm looking at:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01HLV3I9A/ref=wl_it_d...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013UBRZUS/ref=wl_it_d...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01DLRGY8A/ref=wl_it_d...
I mean, she does look lovely parked up at the side of the road waiting for the RAC... but I'd rather be riding.
Although I think you have a fundamental issue that needs sorting properly, we have one of these at work: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sakura-SS5300-Jump-Starte...
Started an R1 with totally flat battery with no ill effects. Works on cars, vans & even a tractor...
Started an R1 with totally flat battery with no ill effects. Works on cars, vans & even a tractor...
I've got; https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014R6C29E/ref...
Used it a dozen times to start my bike, always works first time (just make sure it's charged)
Will normally start it several times from one full charge.
Was cheaper when I got it.
Hold old is your battery? I reckon it's had it. You could try reviving it will a proper full charge. Disconnect everything then charge it up from the correct optimate. If you've a mulimeter, be worth checking the voltage on it.
Could save £45 on something you don't need and just replace a dead battery.
Used it a dozen times to start my bike, always works first time (just make sure it's charged)
Will normally start it several times from one full charge.
Was cheaper when I got it.
Hold old is your battery? I reckon it's had it. You could try reviving it will a proper full charge. Disconnect everything then charge it up from the correct optimate. If you've a mulimeter, be worth checking the voltage on it.
Could save £45 on something you don't need and just replace a dead battery.
Biker 1 said:
Although I think you have a fundamental issue that needs sorting properly, we have one of these at work: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sakura-SS5300-Jump-Starte...
Started an R1 with totally flat battery with no ill effects. Works on cars, vans & even a tractor...
Thanks Biker 1! That one seems ideal, although it might be a bit too big to keep under the tiny pillion seat - I'll have to measure how much space I've got.Started an R1 with totally flat battery with no ill effects. Works on cars, vans & even a tractor...
I'm 99% certain it's the alarm draining the battery, and I'm going to get it removed as soon as I can book it in. That should solve the draining issue...
But in the meantime I'll still need to be able to start the bike to get it to the garage, etc. And if the trickle charger can't combat the draining alarm in the meantime, then I can't be arsed with having to keep bumpstarting the thing!
2wheelsjimmy said:
I've got; https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014R6C29E/ref...
Used it a dozen times to start my bike, always works first time (just make sure it's charged)
Will normally start it several times from one full charge.
Was cheaper when I got it.
Hold old is your battery? I reckon it's had it. You could try reviving it will a proper full charge. Disconnect everything then charge it up from the correct optimate. If you've a mulimeter, be worth checking the voltage on it.
Could save £45 on something you don't need and just replace a dead battery.
Thanks Jimmy!Used it a dozen times to start my bike, always works first time (just make sure it's charged)
Will normally start it several times from one full charge.
Was cheaper when I got it.
Hold old is your battery? I reckon it's had it. You could try reviving it will a proper full charge. Disconnect everything then charge it up from the correct optimate. If you've a mulimeter, be worth checking the voltage on it.
Could save £45 on something you don't need and just replace a dead battery.
The battery is one and a half years old, so I'd like to think it's not dead already... I haven't used it much in the past year though.
RAC guy did say my positive terminal was a little loose, so that might have been the problem this time.
You really need a multimeter so you can find out what's happening.
You should be able to get one for £10 or so at screwfix. Then you can see what you battery voltage is, what your optimate voltage is when charging, what the voltage is when the bike is running. This will help to confirm what's the issue.
Your optimate should be able to keep the battery charged, have a read of the manual for your version and see. Then perhaps disconnect all the bike electrics from the battery and get the optimate to run a check and full charge on it, see if that helps the voltage.
You should be able to get one for £10 or so at screwfix. Then you can see what you battery voltage is, what your optimate voltage is when charging, what the voltage is when the bike is running. This will help to confirm what's the issue.
Your optimate should be able to keep the battery charged, have a read of the manual for your version and see. Then perhaps disconnect all the bike electrics from the battery and get the optimate to run a check and full charge on it, see if that helps the voltage.
2wheelsjimmy said:
You really need a multimeter so you can find out what's happening.
You should be able to get one for £10 or so at screwfix. Then you can see what you battery voltage is, what your optimate voltage is when charging, what the voltage is when the bike is running. This will help to confirm what's the issue.
Your optimate should be able to keep the battery charged, have a read of the manual for your version and see. Then perhaps disconnect all the bike electrics from the battery and get the optimate to run a check and full charge on it, see if that helps the voltage.
Thanks!You should be able to get one for £10 or so at screwfix. Then you can see what you battery voltage is, what your optimate voltage is when charging, what the voltage is when the bike is running. This will help to confirm what's the issue.
Your optimate should be able to keep the battery charged, have a read of the manual for your version and see. Then perhaps disconnect all the bike electrics from the battery and get the optimate to run a check and full charge on it, see if that helps the voltage.
I do have a multimeter... but I've never read the instructions, so haven't quite figured out how it works!
Will deffo investigate this further.
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/faqs.php?action=1&am...
https://www.batterystuff.com/blog/how-to-tell-if-y...
It's easy, you need to do that before wasting money on a battery pack.
https://www.batterystuff.com/blog/how-to-tell-if-y...
It's easy, you need to do that before wasting money on a battery pack.
InsolentMinx said:
Thanks!
I do have a multimeter... but I've never read the instructions, so haven't quite figured out how it works!
Will deffo investigate this further.
Just remember not to use the AC settings with a DC battery & if it isn't auto-ranging, to set it to the correct voltage setting....I do have a multimeter... but I've never read the instructions, so haven't quite figured out how it works!
Will deffo investigate this further.
2wheelsjimmy said:
You really need a multimeter so you can find out what's happening.
You should be able to get one for £10 or so at screwfix. Then you can see what you battery voltage is, what your optimate voltage is when charging, what the voltage is when the bike is running. This will help to confirm what's the issue.
Your optimate should be able to keep the battery charged, have a read of the manual for your version and see. Then perhaps disconnect all the bike electrics from the battery and get the optimate to run a check and full charge on it, see if that helps the voltage.
And the parasitic drain from the alarm.You should be able to get one for £10 or so at screwfix. Then you can see what you battery voltage is, what your optimate voltage is when charging, what the voltage is when the bike is running. This will help to confirm what's the issue.
Your optimate should be able to keep the battery charged, have a read of the manual for your version and see. Then perhaps disconnect all the bike electrics from the battery and get the optimate to run a check and full charge on it, see if that helps the voltage.
You'll find videos on YouTube that help with all the above.
As others have said the optimate even with an alarm should keep things in order. I have 2005 Triumph with a datatool alarm fitted. The battery is the original one and the alarm has been on the bike since new. When not in use and at home the bike is plugged into an optimate. Its only this year that the optimate is sometimes showing the battery to be weak.
Well I've had the bike on charge since Saturday.
The Oxford battery tender display says it's maintaining the battery (opposed to charging), and the battery condition is strong.
Dug out the multimeter, and seeing as Dad was over, I had him hold the camera and film me starting (or trying to start) the bike.
You can see and hear what happens.
I don't think there's a problem with the starter, as the bike started just fine when the RAC guy plugged in his battery pack... so I guess it must be the battery. And maybe the regulator/rectifier too? - although can't test that if the bike doesn't start.
The Oxford charger says it can recover batteries that are as low as 6V as long as not damaged, and the battery isn't damaged. So not sure why/how the battery would be dead after 18 months, maybe a dud?
I'm tempted to just buy a new bog standard Yuasa battery from David Silver Honda and be done with it.
The Oxford battery tender display says it's maintaining the battery (opposed to charging), and the battery condition is strong.
Dug out the multimeter, and seeing as Dad was over, I had him hold the camera and film me starting (or trying to start) the bike.
You can see and hear what happens.
I don't think there's a problem with the starter, as the bike started just fine when the RAC guy plugged in his battery pack... so I guess it must be the battery. And maybe the regulator/rectifier too? - although can't test that if the bike doesn't start.
The Oxford charger says it can recover batteries that are as low as 6V as long as not damaged, and the battery isn't damaged. So not sure why/how the battery would be dead after 18 months, maybe a dud?
I'm tempted to just buy a new bog standard Yuasa battery from David Silver Honda and be done with it.
Edited by InsolentMinx on Tuesday 28th February 14:48
InsolentMinx said:
Well I've had the bike on charge since Saturday.
The Oxford battery tender display says it's maintaining the battery (opposed to charging), and the battery condition is strong.
Dug out the multimeter, and seeing as Dad was over, I had him hold the camera and film me starting (or trying to start) the bike.
You can see and hear what happens.
I don't think there's a problem with the starter, as the bike started just fine when the RAC guy plugged in his battery pack... so I guess it must be the battery. And maybe the regulator/rectifier too? - although can't test that if the bike doesn't start.
The Oxford charger says it can recover batteries that are as low as 6V as long as not damaged, and the battery isn't damaged. So not sure why/how the battery would be dead after 18 months, maybe a dud?
I'm tempted to just buy a new bog standard Yuasa battery from David Silver Honda and be done with it.
Buy a lithium. The difference they make is pretty big and they weigh a hell of a lot lessThe Oxford battery tender display says it's maintaining the battery (opposed to charging), and the battery condition is strong.
Dug out the multimeter, and seeing as Dad was over, I had him hold the camera and film me starting (or trying to start) the bike.
You can see and hear what happens.
I don't think there's a problem with the starter, as the bike started just fine when the RAC guy plugged in his battery pack... so I guess it must be the battery. And maybe the regulator/rectifier too? - although can't test that if the bike doesn't start.
The Oxford charger says it can recover batteries that are as low as 6V as long as not damaged, and the battery isn't damaged. So not sure why/how the battery would be dead after 18 months, maybe a dud?
I'm tempted to just buy a new bog standard Yuasa battery from David Silver Honda and be done with it.
Edited by InsolentMinx on Tuesday 28th February 14:48
kurt535 said:
Buy a lithium. The difference they make is pretty big and they weigh a hell of a lot less
Could you recommend a reputable brand please? I've seen a few wildly ranging in prices.And can you use a normal charger/battery tender with them, or would I have to buy another special one?
Ta.
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