(My) VFR1200F

[bolidemichael]

I'm pleased to know that it's not just me lol

[gareth_r]

bolidemichael said:

nordboy said:

I've done it all previously when I was touring and wanted a phone charger, a gps unit etc. I also installed a marine fuse box under the seat to attach all my electronics stuff to

I may ask Honda to install one for me, just in case. What's with the marine fuse box, I've googled it but it seems like a box of fuses

You can buy "motorcycle distribution blocks". No idea whether they are worth the extra cost over knocking up your own with a waterproof fuse box, an inline fuse, a 30/40 amp relay operated by a switched live, and some suitably rated cable feeding one side of all the fuses.

bolidemichael said:

Fascinating -- do you think that it's something that a Honda dealer are likely to go off-piste to accommodate?

If you're not happy to do it yourself, you could try an auto electrician?

Edited by gareth_r on Monday 11th October 13:56

[bolidemichael]

gareth_r said:

bolidemichael said:

nordboy said:

I've done it all previously when I was touring and wanted a phone charger, a gps unit etc. I also installed a marine fuse box under the seat to attach all my electronics stuff to

I may ask Honda to install one for me, just in case. What's with the marine fuse box, I've googled it but it seems like a box of fuses

You can buy "motorcycle distribution blocks". No idea whether they are worth the extra cost over knocking up your own with a waterproof fuse box, an inline fuse, a 30/40 amp relay operated by a switched live, and some suitably rated cable feeding one side of all the fuses.

I should say that this is all Greek to me, but being Cypriot that doesn't quite work... you get my drift though, I'm a luddite.

gareth_r said:

bolidemichael said:

Fascinating -- do you think that it's something that a Honda dealer are likely to go off-piste to accommodate?

If you're not happy to do it yourself, you could try an auto electrician?

Good point - I've never tried using one.

[gareth_r]

bolidemichael said:

gareth_r said:

bolidemichael said:

Fascinating -- do you think that it's something that a Honda dealer are likely to go off-piste to accommodate?

If you're not happy to do it yourself, you could try an auto electrician?

Good point - I've never tried using one.

The obvious problem is that most are accustomed to dismantling cars and vans rather than motorcycles, and bike specialists like Ferret and Rupe's Rewires are few and far between, but if they were prepared to do something simple "while you wait" it might be worth a ride.

Edited by gareth_r on Monday 11th October 15:11

[bolidemichael]

A replacement OE screen arrived today



It cost £35, by far the cheapest on ebay (as opposed to about £130 new). As a bonus, the one purchased wasn't in the condition as described (as queried it, too) so they contacted me and told me that they were exchanging it for another in far better condition for the same price.

[bolidemichael]

Another couple of arrivals today



and



I also dropped the cracked pannier off with LV Custom which is run by a very nice Frenchman (I'm presuming from the accent) named Ludo. He told me that Candy Prominence Red is a very tough colour to replicate, as it is made up of layers of red sprayed onto silver -- it can be very easy to overcook with even a single additional layer. Also, if his colleague takes it over, the variation in spraying style can alter the effect too...

All rather technical which suggests that he's either very good, or that it's a very tough ask! I await the quotation.

[bolidemichael]

I got a little bit of riding in today... a five mile commute to work and back with a lift for the daughter in the morning and for the son in the evening.



I still think that it looks pretty cool, even by today's standards... but the handling isn't too friendly for me on the current set up and I keep finding myself changing to first on all of the slower bends... second in low revs is very notchy.

Edited by bolidemichael on Friday 15th October 21:08

[carinaman]

bolidemichael said:

I got a little bit of riding in today... a five mile commute to work and back with a lift for the daughter in the morning and for the son in the evening.



I still think that it looks pretty cool, even by today's standards... but the handling isn't too friendly for my on the current set up and I keep finding myself changing to first on all of the slower bends... second in low revs is very notchy.

Looks good and it's good it's getting used.

[bolidemichael]

myvision said:

bolidemichael said:

I'm 5' 7", if there's any reference points from you both.

I'm 5'9'' and i have a puig screen on mine and find that it deflects the wind really well for me.
On the VFR1200 facebook page there is a lad that makes custom seats they look good but i don't have one so don't know if they are comfy. Mine came with a different comfort seat already on it.
I can recommend a PC5 for it as I had mine tuned on a dyno to lose the snatchy low down throttle it runs two maps which i can switch between from the left bar.

MV, does the PC5 come with a pre-set mapping?

[myvision]

bolidemichael said:

MV, does the PC5 come with a pre-set mapping?

The PC5 was on my bike when i bought it.
I had the snatchy throttle at low speeds so I spoke to Chris Gunster as he is the nearest Dynojet tuner to me and he was certain he could do something about it.
I then asked for two seperate maps that's why i have the switch and now there is no snatchy throttle at low speed on map 2. I presume you can get maps out of the Power Commander but computers aren't really my thing. There are maps for the VFR1200 on the dynojet website but mine is now way better than whatever was loaded on to it before which i presume was one from the website.

[bolidemichael]

I'll look into that, thanks.

[bolidemichael]

I dropped the bike again today - at the junction of a roundabout, releasing the clutch in first to set off and the bike cut out and the weight was too much to bear.

In hinsight, this is what happened the first time that I dropped it too - it's as though there is a dip in the revs at the same time that I release the cltuch. Is it fuelling, or the fact that it isn't as smooth from low revs as an inline four?

Whatever it is, it's getting me down (pardon the pun) and also damaging the finish on the panels of this lovely bike - replacements are about £415 each side, which I'm happy to replace as and when, but I'd really like to get on top of the low speed stalling issues that keep catching my unawares.

I also think that the front rebound is too hard, as the bike is reluctant to turn in easily to low speed changes of direction and I find myself wobbling around like a really unconfident rider.

Perhaps I'll start by getting the tyres swapped from the Dunlop Roadsmarts to Metzeler M9RRs, as I first point of call.

For now, I've bent the gear shift level too, so can only access first and second.

[carinaman]

Sorry to learn you've had another spill. I stalled pulling out of a giveway with terrible vision due to a large van parked right up against the junction and on a terrible surface last week. I can't blame the bike. I may have been in second or third.

Due to another thread from Monday evening I've been watching Tuono 660 reviews. There's a Dave Moss one where he sits on it and takes measurements and I think he takes it out on the track, adjusts the suspension and just adjusting the suspension altered the way the front tyre was wearing at the tread edges. If the rebound on your VFR1200 is set wrong that may impact on tread wear as well as the front tyre is behaving? Just a suggestion that may be wrong.

Edited by carinaman on Thursday 21st October 02:32

[black-k1]

Likewise, I too am sorry to hear of another drop. I don't think it's the configuration (v4 or IL4) as, engineering wise, a correctly angled V engine is generally smoother than the equivalent IL engine as it has inherent primary and secondary balance.

It may be that the fueling needs looking at but, unfortunately, I think this is just a feature of "getting used to" a new engine. It sounds like it needs more revs and probably more clutch slip when pulling away.

Edited by black-k1 on Thursday 21st October 12:00

[A993LAD]

Oh dear that's unlucky but doubt it will happen a 3rd time as you'll be careful to rev it more I expect.

It's not a great bike for slow speed manoeuvres, but not too bad. I regularly use mine for central London commuting and find it pretty good.

For side panels, they regularly come up on ebay where bikes have been crashed with one side clean and undamaged. I've bought several for mine at £50 - £100 just in case.

I'm on my second 1200F and have done 72k miles combined. Great bike for my needs so stick with it and hopefully lots of trouble free miles ahead for you.

I upgraded the suspension at both ends, including professional setup and this is the single best investment you can make in my view. It transformed the way the bike handles.

The next best investment is new tyres if yours are squared off at all.

[guitarcarfanatic]

Sorry about the second drop, you will get the hang of it. I remember a reviewer when they first came out had similar issues - dropped it twice in a week moving it around at low speed.

Persist and you will get it dialled in

[Biker9090]

bolidemichael said:

I dropped the bike again today - at the junction of a roundabout, releasing the clutch in first to set off and the bike cut out and the weight was too much to bear.

In hinsight, this is what happened the first time that I dropped it too - it's as though there is a dip in the revs at the same time that I release the cltuch. Is it fuelling, or the fact that it isn't as smooth from low revs as an inline four?

I also think that the front rebound is too hard, as the bike is reluctant to turn in easily to low speed changes of direction and I find myself wobbling around like a really unconfident rider.

For now, I've bent the gear shift level too, so can only access first and second.

"The springs in the forks are actually on the soft side, the reason the forks feel so hard is that they have far too much compression damping. There is also not enough rebound damping in the forks so when you let go of the brake the front end returns very quickly causing the bike to run wide out of corners."

That is the response from Maxton. The combination of K tech springs and the Nitron R1 completely cured any turning issues. The only time I still have issues on tight walking speed turns are if I mess up my rear brake control or don't use enough force on the bars. I've never had any low speed stalling issues in 2000 miles of owning. The only thing is the clutch biting point is quite far out.

[Paulus200sx]

sorry about the drops, I dropped mine on first day of ownership, tis very annoying ! stick with it you will become as one eventually. I agree with previous comment give it more beans when pulling away and use clutch slip to control it. I have grown to love my VFR1200. but it takes time. I also find the suspension a little hard but mine handles fine so I am reluctant to mess with settings.

[Salted_Peanut]

I’m sorry to hear about another drop (but who hasn’t dropped a bike?) and agree with getting a professional suspension setup.

bolidemichael said:

Perhaps I'll start by getting the tyres swapped from the Dunlop Roadsmarts to Metzeler M9RRs, as I first point of call.

Before looking at tyre choice, I highly recommend a session with Rapid Training as the first port of call. I owned a VFR1200 and have used Dunlop Roadsmarts and Metzeler M9RRs. Your riding technique could make considerably more difference than any difference between these tyres on the road. Treat yourself and invest in a fresh set of eyes on your riding from a top-level coach like Rapid.

[bolidemichael]

carinaman said:

Sorry to learn you've had another spill. I stalled pulling out of a giveway with terrible vision due to a large van parked right up against the junction and on a terrible surface last week. I can't blame the bike. I may have been in second or third.

Due to another thread from Monday evening I've been watching Tuono 660 reviews. There's a Dave Moss one where he sits on it and takes measurements and I think he takes it out on the track, adjusts the suspension and just adjusting the suspension altered the way the front tyre was wearing at the tread edges. If the rebound on your VFR1200 is set wrong that may impact on tread wear as well as the front tyre is behaving? Just a suggestion that may be wrong.

Edited by carinaman on Thursday 21st October 02:32

Thanks for volunteering your own experience, it does somehow feel better to read of someone else's woes! Suspension is a bot of a dark art and I am intending to have it done in February. I'll just get the appraisal from Honda from November 2nd onwards before chucking more money, as I'll be bringing the 32k service forward, as there's no evidence of it having been done.

black-k1 said:

Likewise, I too am sorry to hear of another drop. I don't think it's the configuration (v4 or IL4) as, engineering wise, a correctly angled V engine is generally smoother than the equivalent IL engine as it has inherent primary and secondary balance.

It may be that the fueling needs looking at but, unfortunately, I think this is just a feature of "getting used to" a new engine. It sounds like it needs more revs and probably more clutch slip when pulling away.

Edited by black-k1 on Thursday 21st October 12:00

Possibly all of the above; additionally, I think that the bike is in need of a fettle and also perhaps an acclimitisation of my part.

A993LAD said:

Oh dear that's unlucky but doubt it will happen a 3rd time as you'll be careful to rev it more I expect.

It's not a great bike for slow speed manoeuvres, but not too bad. I regularly use mine for central London commuting and find it pretty good.

For side panels, they regularly come up on ebay where bikes have been crashed with one side clean and undamaged. I've bought several for mine at £50 - £100 just in case.

I'm on my second 1200F and have done 72k miles combined. Great bike for my needs so stick with it and hopefully lots of trouble free miles ahead for you.

I upgraded the suspension at both ends, including professional setup and this is the single best investment you can make in my view. It transformed the way the bike handles.

The next best investment is new tyres if yours are squared off at all.

That's good to know AL, also about the availability of panels. What colour is yours?

I'll be doing the Nitron upgrade through MCT, soon enough.

guitarcarfanatic said:

Sorry about the second drop, you will get the hang of it. I remember a reviewer when they first came out had similar issues - dropped it twice in a week moving it around at low speed.

Persist and you will get it dialled in

Thanks, I'll keep plugging away, but I'm just so astounded how I've been caught off-guard twice. It's not as though operating a clutch is really a cognitive act, it's more of a muscle memory behaviour for any of us that have become accustomed to it over years of repetition.

Biker9090 said:

"The springs in the forks are actually on the soft side, the reason the forks feel so hard is that they have far too much compression damping. There is also not enough rebound damping in the forks so when you let go of the brake the front end returns very quickly causing the bike to run wide out of corners."

That is the response from Maxton. The combination of K tech springs and the Nitron R1 completely cured any turning issues. The only time I still have issues on tight walking speed turns are if I mess up my rear brake control or don't use enough force on the bars. I've never had any low speed stalling issues in 2000 miles of owning. The only thing is the clutch biting point is quite far out.

Thank you B9090 -- I do find suspension something that I really have to think about every time I engage with it -- even reading that, I have to remind myself that rebound damping controls the rate at which the forks 'de-compress', so it does make sense. Perhaps until the suspension is upgraded, I should soften the rebound damping on the front.

Paulus200sx said:

sorry about the drops, I dropped mine on first day of ownership, tis very annoying ! stick with it you will become as one eventually. I agree with previous comment give it more beans when pulling away and use clutch slip to control it. I have grown to love my VFR1200. but it takes time. I also find the suspension a little hard but mine handles fine so I am reluctant to mess with settings.

Thanks Paul -0 what colour is yours? I'll hopefully fettle it and make it a peach to ride (fingers crossed!).

Salted_Peanut said:

Before looking at tyre choice, I highly recommend a session with Rapid Training as the first port of call. I owned a VFR1200 and have used Dunlop Roadsmarts and Metzeler M9RRs. Your riding technique could make considerably more difference than any difference between these tyres on the road. Treat yourself and invest in a fresh set of eyes on your riding from a top-level coach like Rapid.

Which set of tyres did you prefer?

I would consider Rapid Training, absolutely. More training is never a bad thing, especially with these ex-Police class one riders. In fact, when I did my IAM tests, I purposefully requested Jon Taylor -- he was the examiner for Police Class 1 riders. I wanted to pass (be invited to join the IAM) with the toughest examiner and I was so proud when I achieved it.