Motorbikes- would they fit this purpose
Discussion
Now that i'm back to being single I am left with one rather slow off roader as my every day vehicle.
soo i want something small/cheap that can be parked outside the flat.
have £7k to spend to get the most fun, without it costing an arm and a leg- would a bike be worth it?
need to take into account running costs, license, getting setup, depreciation, insurance and servicing costs.
I'm 29, dont have any responsibilities (bar my staff), and want to have some fun!
soo i want something small/cheap that can be parked outside the flat.
have £7k to spend to get the most fun, without it costing an arm and a leg- would a bike be worth it?
need to take into account running costs, license, getting setup, depreciation, insurance and servicing costs.
I'm 29, dont have any responsibilities (bar my staff), and want to have some fun!
Yes, but I am assuming that you are using the £7k in the 1st year?
For example
-theory test £30 (I think)
-CBT £100-£125 (depends on area)
-Test pre-change - lots of places hiking the price up, I would say £600-£800 depending on area, and good luck getting a test slot
-Test post-change - about the same, but good luck getting a test slot
-Fuel £20 to fill up 2005 CBR600F, lasts til the reserve light comes on
- Helmet - the only legal requirement re safety - £50 upwards, but mine cost £200 for my current, £300 for my Arai. Also budget £50 or so for a tinted visor, much needed when sunny.
- leathers -recommended for any fast riding £350 for 2 piece Frank Thomas gear
-Gloves - highly recommended for all riding £50+
-Boots - have heard some nasty stuff when not used, £190 for my waterproof ones, but can be cheaper
-Depreciation - depends how soon you want to change your bike, I would suggest getting an older jap bike (cheaper to buy and insure) rather than a brand new anything, can be had for £1500 or so.
-Tyres depends on what you want, Michelin 2CTs cost me £260 for the pair.
-Fun factor - have driven a car only a few times since getting the bike, it feels so mundane (but then again the car is nothing special) even the commute is quite fun on the bike. The 125 that I had to run around on was a laugh too, just way too slow.
For example
-theory test £30 (I think)
-CBT £100-£125 (depends on area)
-Test pre-change - lots of places hiking the price up, I would say £600-£800 depending on area, and good luck getting a test slot
-Test post-change - about the same, but good luck getting a test slot
-Fuel £20 to fill up 2005 CBR600F, lasts til the reserve light comes on
- Helmet - the only legal requirement re safety - £50 upwards, but mine cost £200 for my current, £300 for my Arai. Also budget £50 or so for a tinted visor, much needed when sunny.
- leathers -recommended for any fast riding £350 for 2 piece Frank Thomas gear
-Gloves - highly recommended for all riding £50+
-Boots - have heard some nasty stuff when not used, £190 for my waterproof ones, but can be cheaper
-Depreciation - depends how soon you want to change your bike, I would suggest getting an older jap bike (cheaper to buy and insure) rather than a brand new anything, can be had for £1500 or so.
-Tyres depends on what you want, Michelin 2CTs cost me £260 for the pair.
-Fun factor - have driven a car only a few times since getting the bike, it feels so mundane (but then again the car is nothing special) even the commute is quite fun on the bike. The 125 that I had to run around on was a laugh too, just way too slow.
If you factor £2k for training and decent gear, the remaining £5k gets you a hell of a lot of bike.
Look up the stats on a GSX-R 600 or CBR600.. there is a F or S version of the CBR which is slightly more sensible than the CBR600RR but i belive that even the RR has some of the best ergonomics in the class.
(and you could do training and gear cheaper quite easily)
Do a CBT for about £100 and you'll get a feel for wether you'll take to biking or not!
Look up the stats on a GSX-R 600 or CBR600.. there is a F or S version of the CBR which is slightly more sensible than the CBR600RR but i belive that even the RR has some of the best ergonomics in the class.
(and you could do training and gear cheaper quite easily)
Do a CBT for about £100 and you'll get a feel for wether you'll take to biking or not!
lol
ok so for 7k i want a big bike (being 6ft2 and 22 stone) although not really a racer as i don't have any skills- a quick tourer would be fine as i would use it to get round the country. i have thought about a big BMW like a K series or one of off road type bikes (a la long way round) but does anyone have any input? the bike has to be quite adaptable so NOT just a weekend toy that gets used for sunday afternoon blats round the southwest. can you do your weekly shop on a bike?
how much does insurance typically cost for a new rider in a low risk area? road tax? likely mpg at cruise? how often do you need to get bikes serviced and what is high miles for a bike? how useable are bikes in the winter if i just want to potter round on them?
ok so for 7k i want a big bike (being 6ft2 and 22 stone) although not really a racer as i don't have any skills- a quick tourer would be fine as i would use it to get round the country. i have thought about a big BMW like a K series or one of off road type bikes (a la long way round) but does anyone have any input? the bike has to be quite adaptable so NOT just a weekend toy that gets used for sunday afternoon blats round the southwest. can you do your weekly shop on a bike?
how much does insurance typically cost for a new rider in a low risk area? road tax? likely mpg at cruise? how often do you need to get bikes serviced and what is high miles for a bike? how useable are bikes in the winter if i just want to potter round on them?
Glade said:
If you factor £2k for training and decent gear, the remaining £5k gets you a hell of a lot of bike.
Look up the stats on a GSX-R 600 or CBR600.. there is a F or S version of the CBR which is slightly more sensible than the CBR600RR but i belive that even the RR has some of the best ergonomics in the class.
(and you could do training and gear cheaper quite easily)
Do a CBT for about £100 and you'll get a feel for wether you'll take to biking or not!
CBR 600s do not depreciate as fast as the big bikes.Look up the stats on a GSX-R 600 or CBR600.. there is a F or S version of the CBR which is slightly more sensible than the CBR600RR but i belive that even the RR has some of the best ergonomics in the class.
(and you could do training and gear cheaper quite easily)
Do a CBT for about £100 and you'll get a feel for wether you'll take to biking or not!
Good luck with your test.
I'd skimp on the bike rather than the training and gear myself.
I've just picked up a CBR600F4 (ally frame) for £1700 and it may have a few miles on the clock but it rides beautifully, and the engine feels strong as hell. It may be knackered as it's my first sports bike
but I'd have thought I'd feel a shagged engine.
Spending £5k on the first bike will get you something either very very very fast, or brand new - but I'd buy nicer boots / lid / gloves / jacket (or full leathers, depending on what you plan to do with it) and more training rather than get the cheapest gear and minimum training just so you can afford that gixxer thou... even coming from properly fast cars, even sports 600s are a bit, well, fast... a litre bike is probably not a good idea for a first bike and a Hayabusa less so. A turbo Hayabusa with nitrous is most definitely NOT a good idea for a first bike, apparently.
I've just picked up a CBR600F4 (ally frame) for £1700 and it may have a few miles on the clock but it rides beautifully, and the engine feels strong as hell. It may be knackered as it's my first sports bike
but I'd have thought I'd feel a shagged engine.Spending £5k on the first bike will get you something either very very very fast, or brand new - but I'd buy nicer boots / lid / gloves / jacket (or full leathers, depending on what you plan to do with it) and more training rather than get the cheapest gear and minimum training just so you can afford that gixxer thou... even coming from properly fast cars, even sports 600s are a bit, well, fast... a litre bike is probably not a good idea for a first bike and a Hayabusa less so. A turbo Hayabusa with nitrous is most definitely NOT a good idea for a first bike, apparently.
I use my bike to commute all year round bar ice/snow.
Average MPG over 2 years commuting/weekend blasts is 42.2mpg (Suzuki SV650S)
Bike is no good for the shopping, take the Mrs car. (Though if you had a tourer with panniers and topbox maybe it would be OK!)
Take a look at a Yamaha Fazer 1000. Big comfortable, got a decent amount of grunt and handle nicely, won't look out of place with hard luggage strapped on either. I've only ridden a carbed version (pre 03?) but it was very smooth, and very capable.
Apart from Honda VFR which are supposed to be good all rounders I haven't heard much about touring bikes.
HTH
Average MPG over 2 years commuting/weekend blasts is 42.2mpg (Suzuki SV650S)
Bike is no good for the shopping, take the Mrs car. (Though if you had a tourer with panniers and topbox maybe it would be OK!)
Take a look at a Yamaha Fazer 1000. Big comfortable, got a decent amount of grunt and handle nicely, won't look out of place with hard luggage strapped on either. I've only ridden a carbed version (pre 03?) but it was very smooth, and very capable.
Apart from Honda VFR which are supposed to be good all rounders I haven't heard much about touring bikes.
HTH
If you want it to be your main transport then make sure you have half decent all weather textiles... I've never been miserable on a bike except when I'm wet/cold/both.
You can buy good bikes from 2k so there's no need to skimp. Also, unless you buy new or pay over the odds bikes don't tend to depreciate like cars so there's no reason not to get something sensible and middle of the road now and then see how your fancy takes you next year with regard to speed, handling, comfort, looks, etc.
I'm thinking about a K1200RS for my commuter to replace the blade and having had something heavy in the past (a GPZ1100E1) I'd tend to steer clear of bike heavy stuff to start with. You don't have to of course and you'd probably be fine but I did find that the lighter a bike was the less initimidating it was doing all the suff I was s
t at as a noob such as slow speed riding.
You can buy good bikes from 2k so there's no need to skimp. Also, unless you buy new or pay over the odds bikes don't tend to depreciate like cars so there's no reason not to get something sensible and middle of the road now and then see how your fancy takes you next year with regard to speed, handling, comfort, looks, etc.
I'm thinking about a K1200RS for my commuter to replace the blade and having had something heavy in the past (a GPZ1100E1) I'd tend to steer clear of bike heavy stuff to start with. You don't have to of course and you'd probably be fine but I did find that the lighter a bike was the less initimidating it was doing all the suff I was s
t at as a noob such as slow speed riding.Edited by dern on Thursday 7th August 13:32
dern said:
I'm thinking about a K1200RS for my commuter to replace the blade and having had something heavy in the past (a GPZ1100E1) I'd tend to steer clear of bike heavy stuff to start with. You don't have to of course and you'd probably be fine but I did find that the lighter a bike was the less initimidating it was doing all the suff I was st at as a noob such as slow speed riding.
He said he was 22 stone - he can probably manhandle most bikes around without too much difficulty!!!! That's literally double my weight, and my CBR600 doesn't feel 'heavy' to me like the Monster 600 did.t at as a noob such as slow speed riding.Edited by dern on Thursday 7th August 13:32
Much of the 'weight' you feel on a bike seems to be due to centre of mass - bikes with a higher centre of mass feel heavier to manoeuvre in my state of noobness, but I guess 22 stone on top of a light bike would be similar, so perhaps this guy *needs* a big bike to keep the centre of mass low...
cyberface said:
Much of the 'weight' you feel on a bike seems to be due to centre of mass - bikes with a higher centre of mass feel heavier to manoeuvre in my state of noobness, but I guess 22 stone on top of a light bike would be similar, so perhaps this guy *needs* a big bike to keep the centre of mass low...
Yeah, maybe... I always felt that I perceived more effort was required to keep a bike upright when I started than when I do now but maybe that's just me
I ended up with a new bike... I wanted a monster 695, and the 2 year old ones were comming in at about 3750.. In the end I got a brand new one with 2year warranty and recovery for 4200 inc vat, then claimed the vat back as a company bike and paid less than a second hand one ( not vat recoverable).. so i was a happy bunny.. I had intended to buy a 2nd hand bike as a first bike, bt ecomomics and availaility swayed me..
I didnt want a sport bike, or a heavy tourer so the monster fitted the bill. plenty of poke 80-85 bhp with the termis and ecu and easy to ride with plenty of tourque and light weight...
having to run it in was an advantage as it forced me to ride gently to start with...
Having said that I fancy an ST4 or ST3 to join in next year, as the monster doesnt have much carrying capacity bar a rucksac... not helped by th high level termis I put on it
G
I didnt want a sport bike, or a heavy tourer so the monster fitted the bill. plenty of poke 80-85 bhp with the termis and ecu and easy to ride with plenty of tourque and light weight...
having to run it in was an advantage as it forced me to ride gently to start with...
Having said that I fancy an ST4 or ST3 to join in next year, as the monster doesnt have much carrying capacity bar a rucksac... not helped by th high level termis I put on it
G
dern said:
cyberface said:
Much of the 'weight' you feel on a bike seems to be due to centre of mass - bikes with a higher centre of mass feel heavier to manoeuvre in my state of noobness, but I guess 22 stone on top of a light bike would be similar, so perhaps this guy *needs* a big bike to keep the centre of mass low...
Yeah, maybe... I always felt that I perceived more effort was required to keep a bike upright when I started than when I do now but maybe that's just meThe OP is 22 stone so *any* bike will be top-heavy unless he gets a proper big bike. The big BMW GS 'long way round' bike sounds just the ticket...
cyberface said:
dern said:
cyberface said:
Much of the 'weight' you feel on a bike seems to be due to centre of mass - bikes with a higher centre of mass feel heavier to manoeuvre in my state of noobness, but I guess 22 stone on top of a light bike would be similar, so perhaps this guy *needs* a big bike to keep the centre of mass low...
Yeah, maybe... I always felt that I perceived more effort was required to keep a bike upright when I started than when I do now but maybe that's just meThe OP is 22 stone so *any* bike will be top-heavy unless he gets a proper big bike. The big BMW GS 'long way round' bike sounds just the ticket...
Whilst I can't shout too loudly seeing as I'm a big fella myself, I think that if a 22 stone chappie attempts to ride a CBR600. he's going to end up wondering:
a) where did my bike go, and
b) damn, I wish I'd wiped that tagnut off my ass this morning
For the record, I'm 16st and when I did the Haslam school on a 600RR, the instructor said that my lap times were being hampered by the fact that the bike was struggling to haul me out of the slow corners.
a) where did my bike go, and
b) damn, I wish I'd wiped that tagnut off my ass this morning
For the record, I'm 16st and when I did the Haslam school on a 600RR, the instructor said that my lap times were being hampered by the fact that the bike was struggling to haul me out of the slow corners.
my weight is a bit of an issue- i'm not too worried about handling a big bike fomthe point of picking it up off the floor- i'm a bit into powerlifting and a couple of hundred kg of weight doesn't fuss me. is it a real skill maneuvering a bike at low speed?
BUT i did have a lightweight Fisher Fury kit car once and my weight caused all sorts of problems- it was bike engined and cornered fantastically to the right but dreadfully to the left because of my weight!
i think a 600cc bike might struggle with me a bit which is where i thought a big bike would be a better idea.
i'm not going to be moving round the bike that much so couldn't really see the point of a pure sports bike- surely one of the other big bikes would be just as much fun compared to a car?
BUT i did have a lightweight Fisher Fury kit car once and my weight caused all sorts of problems- it was bike engined and cornered fantastically to the right but dreadfully to the left because of my weight!
i think a 600cc bike might struggle with me a bit which is where i thought a big bike would be a better idea.
i'm not going to be moving round the bike that much so couldn't really see the point of a pure sports bike- surely one of the other big bikes would be just as much fun compared to a car?
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