Help - Clutch slipping on Fazer 600 1998
Discussion
Hi all,
little help needed or some opinons on this: from cold at 30mph the clutch slips at about 5000 rpm in 3rd.
Is it possible that this is just the clutch springs gone soft or the cable needing some adjustment? Or is the clutch dead already? If it's just the springs is that DIY'able for a relatively inept rider (changed the Final Stage Resistor in my e46 but that's probably the most techinical thing I've done for a while!)?
For reference the bike is a well maintained '98 Fazer FZS 600 with 21k miles on the clock.
Thanks in advance
little help needed or some opinons on this: from cold at 30mph the clutch slips at about 5000 rpm in 3rd.
Is it possible that this is just the clutch springs gone soft or the cable needing some adjustment? Or is the clutch dead already? If it's just the springs is that DIY'able for a relatively inept rider (changed the Final Stage Resistor in my e46 but that's probably the most techinical thing I've done for a while!)?
For reference the bike is a well maintained '98 Fazer FZS 600 with 21k miles on the clock.
Thanks in advance
Cartwheel said:
Hi all,
little help needed or some opinons on this: from cold at 30mph the clutch slips at about 5000 rpm in 3rd.
Is it possible that this is just the clutch springs gone soft or the cable needing some adjustment? Or is the clutch dead already? If it's just the springs is that DIY'able for a relatively inept rider (changed the Final Stage Resistor in my e46 but that's probably the most techinical thing I've done for a while!)?
For reference the bike is a well maintained '98 Fazer FZS 600 with 21k miles on the clock.
Thanks in advance
I changed a clutch on the bike earlier this year.little help needed or some opinons on this: from cold at 30mph the clutch slips at about 5000 rpm in 3rd.
Is it possible that this is just the clutch springs gone soft or the cable needing some adjustment? Or is the clutch dead already? If it's just the springs is that DIY'able for a relatively inept rider (changed the Final Stage Resistor in my e46 but that's probably the most techinical thing I've done for a while!)?
For reference the bike is a well maintained '98 Fazer FZS 600 with 21k miles on the clock.
Thanks in advance
You sound a hell of a lot more mechanically minded than me, as I didn't have a clue why it had springs (to be honest I still don't)
If you can find out how long your springs should be, you will be able to tell if they are shot, as there will be a minimum serviceable length.
If your springs measure less then they are shagged.
Having the same problem with my Mille at the moment but it has the added complication of a hydrualic clutch.
If your springs measure less then they are shagged.
Having the same problem with my Mille at the moment but it has the added complication of a hydrualic clutch.
clutch change is an easy job on a bike.
Lay it over on it's side, undo the clutch cover, undo the bolts, take out the springs, pull out the metal and cork plates, and put the new ones in, and reassemble.
Soak the corks in oil overnight beforehand.
If it's a cable clutch, you'll need to adjust it after installing the new plates.
If you've been slipping it a lot, you'll probably need the steel plates as well. Price up a clutch kit, they're not expensive and come with replacement springs. FWIW i would not go to the trouble of taking it all apart just to measure the springs, and then having to reassemble it whilst you wait for new ones, and then have to repeat the procedure to change them.
Lay it over on it's side, undo the clutch cover, undo the bolts, take out the springs, pull out the metal and cork plates, and put the new ones in, and reassemble.
Soak the corks in oil overnight beforehand.
If it's a cable clutch, you'll need to adjust it after installing the new plates.
If you've been slipping it a lot, you'll probably need the steel plates as well. Price up a clutch kit, they're not expensive and come with replacement springs. FWIW i would not go to the trouble of taking it all apart just to measure the springs, and then having to reassemble it whilst you wait for new ones, and then have to repeat the procedure to change them.
twizellb said:
If you can find out how long your springs should be, you will be able to tell if they are shot, as there will be a minimum serviceable length.
If your springs measure less then they are shagged.
Having the same problem with my Mille at the moment but it has the added complication of a hydrualic clutch.
Why would changing the springs (or indeed the whole clutch) be any more difficult with a hydraulic clutch? Easier, in fact - no adjustments to make afterwards?If your springs measure less then they are shagged.
Having the same problem with my Mille at the moment but it has the added complication of a hydrualic clutch.
C8PPO said:
twizellb said:
If you can find out how long your springs should be, you will be able to tell if they are shot, as there will be a minimum serviceable length.
If your springs measure less then they are shagged.
Having the same problem with my Mille at the moment but it has the added complication of a hydrualic clutch.
Why would changing the springs (or indeed the whole clutch) be any more difficult with a hydraulic clutch? Easier, in fact - no adjustments to make afterwards?If your springs measure less then they are shagged.
Having the same problem with my Mille at the moment but it has the added complication of a hydrualic clutch.
Have just fitted a 'Barnett' clutch to mine after having it slip above 8.5k, only to find it's slipping worse
Never mentioned it being more difficult to change the springs.
The 'added complication' is the slave cylinder and the master cylinder;)
Edited by twizellb on Tuesday 28th September 17:36
Cunny DK said:
R1 Loon said:
Cunny DK said:
I watched loon change his clutch and have to admit it looks dead easy.
Shhhhh, I was trying to impress people with my mechanical prowess.Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff