Discussion
graham22 said:
Didn't think forced induction works on a two stroke - you'll end up pressuring the crankcase, the crankcase volume will need 'pumping' up the transfer ports which will be pointless as the exhaust port is open at the same time.
Surely flowing/filling the bottom end would have better scavenging results in getting all of the mixture already there into the combustion chamber.
I would imagine any power gains are simply by having the air intake in such an area that it's taking in more colder air than the warm air which is behind the motor, above the gearbox between the fram spars etc.
http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=2683135400295297703#Surely flowing/filling the bottom end would have better scavenging results in getting all of the mixture already there into the combustion chamber.
I would imagine any power gains are simply by having the air intake in such an area that it's taking in more colder air than the warm air which is behind the motor, above the gearbox between the fram spars etc.
rhinochopig said:
graham22 said:
........
http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=2683135400295297703#
Have a look at the intake tanks from a 03 600RR, they fit inside the side panels, you may be able to modify them to fit the 250.
You would also be able to use the fairing ducts that fit into the nose cone.
seal your air box would be a good idea to, god knows where to start jetting the bike though, maybe a bit richer than it is at present as a starting point.
Oh, I don't have a scooby do what I'm talking about.
You would also be able to use the fairing ducts that fit into the nose cone.
seal your air box would be a good idea to, god knows where to start jetting the bike though, maybe a bit richer than it is at present as a starting point.
Oh, I don't have a scooby do what I'm talking about.
From what ive read and seen before, you need to be doing around 150MPH to get a worthwhile increase from any ram air effect..Then the gains seem to vary between 8-12HP, I know thats what Kawasaki claimed for their ZX12 when it was launched.
The problem is replicating that and measuring it on a static dyno...
The problem is replicating that and measuring it on a static dyno...
podman said:
From what ive read and seen before, you need to be doing around 150MPH to get a worthwhile increase from any ram air effect..Then the gains seem to vary between 8-12HP, I know thats what Kawasaki claimed for their ZX12 when it was launched.
The problem is replicating that and measuring it on a static dyno...
wind tunnel with rolling dyno. not uncommon....surely within budget of the average clubby.The problem is replicating that and measuring it on a static dyno...
sprinter1050 said:
Fleegle said:
sprinter1050 said:
Ride with you gob open then when a boost is needed "let it out" the other end for a turbo effect.
I have nothing left to let out.How do you think I get down to race weight on a race day???
jp-speed-triple said:
podman said:
From what ive read and seen before, you need to be doing around 150MPH to get a worthwhile increase from any ram air effect..Then the gains seem to vary between 8-12HP, I know thats what Kawasaki claimed for their ZX12 when it was launched.
The problem is replicating that and measuring it on a static dyno...
wind tunnel with rolling dyno. not uncommon....surely within budget of the average clubby.The problem is replicating that and measuring it on a static dyno...
As I reacll from when I raced steel frame CBR6, to keep the mixture correct at high speed/top end in a sealed ram-air system, you need to connect the float bowl air vent/overflow pipes into the ram air duct, so that the fuel in the float bowl is seeing the correct reference pressure. If the float bowl is seeing only base atmo pressure, but the pressure of the air feeding the engine is higher than atmo due to ram-air effect, then it can run lean at top end. I guess that is even worse consquences for 2-stroke than 4-stroke. Take a look at the plumbing on an old CBR6 or ZZR1100 (with carbs) to see what I mean.
As for how you physically fit all that stuff to your particular bike, pass...
As for how you physically fit all that stuff to your particular bike, pass...
Purely in the name of science, you could do some proper work here. If you speak to a company called Race Technology, they make a device called a DL1 data logger. Pair that up with an atmo pressure sensore, and you could hook said sensor up (or up to 13 of them!!) and ride your steed, logging the different pressures found around the bike. You might find that the airbox intake is a major negative pressure point at speed, whereas other points are in neutral or even positive pressure. By identifying these points, you would know where to locate any air feeds or suchlike. guesswork is no substitute for hard facts.
This way you would see if there is any discrepancy between the dyno set up and real world conditions
This way you would see if there is any discrepancy between the dyno set up and real world conditions
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