anti roll bar link gators
Discussion
Mark, do use a correct BJ splitter tool, the wish bone can fracture around the casting if you shock it, they are not expensive to purchase (I'll get pic for you) from memory 20-30 quid, some where like Machinemart... http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...
Also while your replacing them, make some simple heat shield cone hats to slip on, this will really extend their life, just from the fibreglass ali foil type cloth...I'll post pic soon as I get a chance, so you can see what you need to make. They should not be under tension, but since they are both fixed length drop link (ie not one adjustable) they could be a little pre-loaded, and certainly will be if you just jack one side of the car. Make sure your ARB is free to move in the bushes, not binding when you have the links off. The ones I've been using are universal, about £15 for a box full made by this company http://www.mecatech.co.uk/
Tips... read your service manual (!) I also copper-grease the threads and stud part.
Also while your replacing them, make some simple heat shield cone hats to slip on, this will really extend their life, just from the fibreglass ali foil type cloth...I'll post pic soon as I get a chance, so you can see what you need to make. They should not be under tension, but since they are both fixed length drop link (ie not one adjustable) they could be a little pre-loaded, and certainly will be if you just jack one side of the car. Make sure your ARB is free to move in the bushes, not binding when you have the links off. The ones I've been using are universal, about £15 for a box full made by this company http://www.mecatech.co.uk/
Tips... read your service manual (!) I also copper-grease the threads and stud part.
N GTS said:
Mark, do use a correct BJ splitter tool, the wish bone can fracture around the casting if you shock it, they are not expensive to purchase (I'll get pic for you) from memory 20-30 quid, some where like Machinemart... http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...
Tips... read your service manual (!) I also copper-grease the threads and stud part.
Mine fell apart and i used molly slip I have the splitter tool if you want to borrow it Tips... read your service manual (!) I also copper-grease the threads and stud part.
Bit of a thread resurrection here but I'm in the midst of this on the rear of the car. I've got the tool and the manual. The manual says to remove the lower end (on the wishbone) first by unscrewing the nut to the end to protect the thread and then use a punch to shock it out. Now, I don't want to break anything but have been giving it a good whack and its not going anywhere. Whilst I know it won't do much I have WD-40'd it and am leaving it for now. Any hints?
Also the Laser ball joint tool is being fouled by the suspension fork. Should I remove this (seems to be only 2 bolts to take it out, just worried about things being compressed and expanding suddenly!).
Yes, I know, I apologise for my beginners idiocy.
Also a bit surprised at the condition of my links, definitely need a clean up and a paint, along with a load of other bits in there - I mean, its 15 years old and doesn't look new! Outrageous!
Also the Laser ball joint tool is being fouled by the suspension fork. Should I remove this (seems to be only 2 bolts to take it out, just worried about things being compressed and expanding suddenly!).
Yes, I know, I apologise for my beginners idiocy.
Also a bit surprised at the condition of my links, definitely need a clean up and a paint, along with a load of other bits in there - I mean, its 15 years old and doesn't look new! Outrageous!
Undo the lower nut so its just past the end of the threds, place a socket on the nut (I used a deep reach inpact) use a trolly jack and lift on the socket till its taking the weight of the spring not the car, then with a copper hide thumper give the side of the ball joint a cloute this worked for me
buggered if i cant remember what it was i did that suddenly meant i went from way to long trying to get it to pop out to Ahh that was easy. I think it was just getting it high enough in the air to get a proper look at the angle to hit it at and being able to place the hammer just where it was needed in the direction needed. IIRC they don't want to be hit straight up, i think it was more towards the rear, but get under there and make sure you are hitting it squarely in the direction it needs to go.
Ginja said:
Yeah, I've seen that the angle means you need to hit from towards the front of the car, looks like its locked in good and proper though. I'm not in any rush and will try Neils way carefully when I next have time - I'm sure on reflection I've seen my dad do something similar.
If you are stuck I will pop over On the rear the angle means jacking up on the link isn't a good option. So, reverting to the manual and Daves thoughts I raised it higher and got a bigger hammer. Using the most solid punch I have, the nut safely on the end of the thread and off enough to stop the punch flying off I used the side of the club hammer to give it a harder tap. Lo and behold it moved, not a sudden 'free' just movement. A couple more taps took it to the end, removed the top from the anti roll bar using a cup style separator (the adjustable scissor type one is fouled by the shock) and we're off!
On the basis of this I would say the top tips would be to get the car high enough to see the right angle to hit at as its not straight. I was being too careful with the force I used, so using a better (bigger) hammer carefully seems to be more effective and less damaging than a smaller one.
Thanks all for the help, the boots are completely shot but the ball joints look and feel like new still so probably doing this just in time
Mark
On the basis of this I would say the top tips would be to get the car high enough to see the right angle to hit at as its not straight. I was being too careful with the force I used, so using a better (bigger) hammer carefully seems to be more effective and less damaging than a smaller one.
Thanks all for the help, the boots are completely shot but the ball joints look and feel like new still so probably doing this just in time
Mark
Took one of mine off the car the other evening. I had a slightly different problem to you guys, the bottom nut under the lower wish bone was very very tight on the roll bar link, after plenty of WD 40 I managed to get it turning but the problem was the drop link tapered shaft was also turning in the wishbone! I had to get a big pair of mole grips to hold the drop link shaft wile I undid the nut.
Bottom line is the drop link is now buggered. But I have two brand new ones anyway
What I'm more concerned about is the tapered hole in the wishbone its self, it seems slightly worn!
I'm worried that the new drop link shaft will tighten down into the wishbone too far, which will compress the new gator on the drop link too much!
If you get my drift?
Bottom line is the drop link is now buggered. But I have two brand new ones anyway
What I'm more concerned about is the tapered hole in the wishbone its self, it seems slightly worn!
I'm worried that the new drop link shaft will tighten down into the wishbone too far, which will compress the new gator on the drop link too much!
If you get my drift?
Gassing Station | Vipers | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff