Gen 3 oil cooler lines

[sonicbloo]

I've just noticed a drop of oil on the garage floor, and it's coming from the oil cooler lines. I know its a recognized problem with gen 3 Vipers, and also that it's not a good idea to replace with OEM items, as they will also fail over time.

Has anyone else had this issue, and where did they get replacements from?

I've contacted VPS, but it could be quite a while before they can ship a set over, and Jon B only lists OEM items.

Thanks in advance

[ViperDave]

I think Mark and Stuart had some made up in the UK for Gen2, shouldn't be any reason not to do the same for Gen 3 i would have thought

[Dr-Bob]

Gen3 are different as they go into the block.... My SRT Ram had after market ones from Tony Sawyer at Venom performace ..

http://shop.jtsvp.com/product.sc;jsessionid=4F788C...

Baz

Edited by Dr-Bob on Monday 26th October 22:41

Edited by Dr-Bob on Wednesday 28th October 03:58

[sonicbloo]

Many thanks guys.

The car is now off the road for most of the coming winter, and will probably only emerge when I take it to get the front bumper repainted, so I'll sort the problem over the next few months. Just glad I've not done the planned oil change yet, or I would have wasted the £72 worth of oil I just bought a couple of weeks ago!

Edited by sonicbloo on Monday 26th October 23:37

[fatboy18]

These guys will make you up anything you want
http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/Hoses--Pipes---F...

They have all the tooling to make swaged fittings if you so require it.

I've been using them for years, very helpful.

[v82fas]

Pirtek Paul, take the lines off and take em with fittings to pirtek, they should replace like for like. Unless as baz says, theyre slightly different on gen 3.

[sonicbloo]

After some deliberation, I decided to take the easy option, and order factory replacements from my local Jeep/fiat dealer. The originals lasted 10 years and nearly 15,000 miles so I figure they should last a good while.

Obviously i'll keep a close eye on them though

Cost for the 2 lines and 4 new end fittings was a shade under £200 and they'll be here in 5 days

[v82fas]

Recently changed mine Paul, nose had to come off and the bolts at either end of the line were a bit awkward to fit a spanner around, but I Managed it and I'm hardly a mechanic. There's some oil that will leak out so have a rag and a bowl handy. Something I realised I needed after taking the nose off was the retaining clips that you pull out while taking the nose off. Grab em off ebay they're silly cheap. Does the gen 3 have retaining clips???

[sonicbloo]

Hi Stu, there's no mention of taking the nose off in anything I've read, so hopefully shouldn't be too bad. I'll take it along to my mate who has a 4 poster lift, and will be doing the oil change at the same time, as well as other lubricants ( I'm still waiting some Mopar additive for the rear diff )

[v82fas]

Ahh k must be different on Gen 3. Nose had to come off on mine to get at them. If you need any other lines making up, the company Barry got me in touch with were pirtek! They made them there and then, took about 10 minutes!

Have you managed to swap em yet?

[sonicbloo]

I got genuine Mopar lines and new end fittings, ordered through the local Jeep/Fiat/Alfa garage in York. They came within a week, but not got them swapped over yet. Total cost was a whisker under £200. Should get them done in the next week or so, then its off to the paintshop to get rid of those nasty stonechips and scrapes under the nose.

[sonicbloo]

Oil cooler pipes changed tonight, and an oil/filter change. Took maybe 90 minutes without rushing. Nice and easy when you have the use of a 4 post lift and a decent tool kit.

Whilst up in the air, I noticed several missing screws from the side sills ( they were there earlier in the year when we changed the exhausts - so must have fallen out) this time I won't be buying genuine Mopar at $8.50 per screw.

Next jobs, change more fluids, replace screws (check for tightness on completion!) and bumper repaint.

[v82fas]

Paul, I've just replaced my side sill screws, if they're the same size I can send u some up?? I've literally got hundreds...I also found out mine were different sizes as you got closer to the engine...double check yours and I can send some up for you.

[fatboy18]

YOU NEED Stainless steel Rivnuts

[Leatherman]

Check you don't have any stuck in your tyres

[sonicbloo]

v82fas said:

Paul, I've just replaced my side sill screws, if they're the same size I can send u some up?? I've literally got hundreds...I also found out mine were different sizes as you got closer to the engine...double check yours and I can send some up for you.

Thanks Stu, I'll check locally first, I'm sure they'll be a matter of pence - if not I'll be in touch

Rivnuts? Must admit I've not heard of them - but will check 'em out, cheers Mark

Will also check my tyres !!!!!!!

[fatboy18]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfQIYLSKGwI

No need for expensive tools

This video is a bit more long winded
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzWj5y00sVg

but you will clearly see how they work
Using these eliminates all the rotten old self tappers and you get a decent thread to tighten up to. You can get the nut inserts (rivnuts) in stainless steel too.

I have been replacing all the self tappers on Steve's 91 Car

Edited by fatboy18 on Tuesday 24th November 18:08

[Dr-Bob]

Changed all mine on my RT for SS inc Rivnuts

[ViperDave]

The downside to rivnuts is if they come loose, you then end up with a spinning rivnut and no way to get hold of the back and undo the screw. You also have to take into consideration this is more likely to happen on the side sills due to the heating and cooling cycles and differing expansion rates. So if you use them make sure they are very tight. It is also an area that is already prone to galvanic corrosion so not sure how the SS will affect that.

Personally not had any troubles with the sheet metal screws, Do them up tight but not over tight and use a small 1/4" ratchet handle to help avoid over tightening them.

[fatboy18]

ALL my sheet metal screws have been lost at some point! Two reasons, the lowering of the car and catching the heads of the screws on speed humps and also the addition of aluminium side splitters which makes the heads of the screws non recessed

once you drill out the hole for the rivnut you are into nice fresh metal and there's nothing wrong with adding a bit of waxoil or paint to the area prior to squeezing the rivnut up.