4 wheel alignment specs

[dbv8]

Happy Christmas to you to Derek. Such a nice name.

What would be your geo recommendations for my car on the dragstrip.
I am hoping i can take the rear camber out at track and set it back close enough for the drive home.

[Alexdaredevilz]

Lol Peter

Yes can check and adjust thrust angle,

I've managed to get chim and griff specs from pro align

[BliarOut]

I've got the Centre gravity specs I had put on mine, they do need reinputting since I had a rack rebuild

[Ab Shocks]

dbv8 said:

Happy Christmas to you to Derek. Such a nice name.

What would be your geo recommendations for my car on the dragstrip.
I am hoping i can take the rear camber out at track and set it back close enough for the drive home.

It depends on what rubber you are using! but here are a few ideas.

Rear
Not heaps of camber, maybe 1.0 to 1.2 degrees neg
Toe= Can of worms here, if you are using drag tyres just a tad of toe in to stabilise it on braking at the other end or if on road / moulded slicks (888 etc) about 4mm/36minutes will give better traction off the line.

Front
Caster= it is possible to move the spacer from the rear to the front on the upper wishbone and that will increase caster to about 5 degrees, this will help stability no end.
Camber= 1 degree neg will be fine
Toe= run it parallel

[BliarOut]

[dbv8]

Ab Shocks said:

It depends on what rubber you are using! but here are a few ideas.

Rear
Not heaps of camber, maybe 1.0 to 1.2 degrees neg
Toe= Can of worms here, if you are using drag tyres just a tad of toe in to stabilise it on braking at the other end or if on road / moulded slicks (888 etc) about 4mm/36minutes will give better traction off the line.

Front
Caster= it is possible to move the spacer from the rear to the front on the upper wishbone and that will increase caster to about 5 degrees, this will help stability no end.
Camber= 1 degree neg will be fine
Toe= run it parallel

Traction at launch is my priority. I hit 60 foot in 1.83 but i know there is a tenth to be had at least.
I run 255/50/16 Mickey Thompson Street ETs on track at about 14 psi.
I also have Nitrons. 3 way rears that i need to learn how to set up.

[M@H]

Ab Shocks said:

Caster= it is possible to move the spacer from the rear to the front on the upper wishbone and that will increase caster to about 5 degrees, this will help stability no end.

..for the benefit of others, you can buy 3mm balljoint spacers too from the usual suspects, so rather than one 6mm one you can use a 3mm one each side and change the caster by half the amount of just swapping the spacer

[Ab Shocks]

M@H said:

..for the benefit of others, you can buy 3mm balljoint spacers too from the usual suspects, so rather than one 6mm one you can use a 3mm one each side and change the caster by half the amount of just swapping the spacer

Yes you can but 5 degrees of caster is perfect IMHO and thats what you get by moving the spacer, simples

[Ab Shocks]

dbv8 said:

Traction at launch is my priority. I hit 60 foot in 1.83 but i know there is a tenth to be had at least.
I run 255/50/16 Mickey Thompson Street ETs on track at about 14 psi.
I also have Nitrons. 3 way rears that i need to learn how to set up.

Ooo, the three ways in conjuction with a bit more toe in on the back will defo help, just make sure you set up the rebound first with no bump.

[M@H]

Ab Shocks said:

M@H said:

..for the benefit of others, you can buy 3mm balljoint spacers too from the usual suspects, so rather than one 6mm one you can use a 3mm one each side and change the caster by half the amount of just swapping the spacer

Yes you can but 5 degrees of caster is perfect IMHO and thats what you get by moving the spacer, simples

..any thoughts as to why it was designed the other way round?

[Ab Shocks]

M@H said:

..any thoughts as to why it was designed the other way round?

Hmm, thats difficult but as a first offering how about early cars not having power steering and running 5 degrees of caster might wear drivers arms out.
TBH 4 degrees of caster on a Chimmy isn't that bad, it has a far greater benefit to increase to 5 degrees on a Tuscan but for my example for the drag strip, it would help stability.

[JR]

BliarOut said:

Some print outs

Is it just me but when you look at the left camber it appears to be:-
low
lower than when it went in
a long way different to the right camber

[BliarOut]

JR said:

BliarOut said:

Some print outs

Is it just me but when you look at the left camber it appears to be:-
low
lower than when it went in
a long way different to the right camber

You do know which side the initial readings are on, don't you

[JR]

BliarOut said:

JR said:

BliarOut said:

Some print outs

Is it just me but when you look at the left camber it appears to be:-
low
lower than when it went in
a long way different to the right camber

You do know which side the initial readings are on, don't you

I hope so. I assumed that the initial reading was the one below where it says initial measurement @ 4.16 and r 5.22 giving a difference of 1.08. Final measurement of 3.46 and 5.06 giving a difference of 1.20 does not look good when read against the NA advice. In fact the difference increasing doesn't lokk good in any light.

[M@H]

It's you?

Front looks practically identical at 0.5x degrees final measurement...

[JR]

M@H said:

It's you?

Front looks practically identical at 0.5x degrees final measurement...

Ah, but I meant castor and typed camber. Sorry.

[Ab Shocks]

I noticed that myself but its caster not camber and I would suspect that this car had had some sort of dink or hit a nasty pothole and done some damage to the lower wishbone.
Its a bit wierd though because they are normally 4.25 degrees ish with the top spacers each side so one side is low and the other one high.

[M@H]

JR said:

M@H said:

It's you?

Front looks practically identical at 0.5x degrees final measurement...

Ah, but I meant castor and typed camber. Sorry.

Aaah.. the problem with Castor angle is how are you going to adjust it? ..you get what you get unless you start re-spacing the balljoints.

[BliarOut]

M@H said:

JR said:

M@H said:

It's you?

Front looks practically identical at 0.5x degrees final measurement...

Ah, but I meant castor and typed camber. Sorry.

Aaah.. the problem with Castor angle is how are you going to adjust it? ..you get what you get unless you start re-spacing the balljoints.

It handled fantastically when it left

[M@H]

They are very local to Mrs H's parents so I may well pay them a visit - what sort of cost was it if you don't mind me asking (I have been quoted £95 locally for standard alignment check and anadjustment)