New gearbox dont fit
Discussion
Just taken the car out for its test drive. Ran so smooth and gearchanges are easier and precise.
Then as i am manouvering to put it back in the garage the noise comes back!
Not as bad but its there. I now think its metal to metal between the clutch plate and fly.
Can anyone tell me why i didnt remove the clutch and inspect it while the box was out?
Another one for the list i think. Oh well.
Then as i am manouvering to put it back in the garage the noise comes back!
Not as bad but its there. I now think its metal to metal between the clutch plate and fly.
Can anyone tell me why i didnt remove the clutch and inspect it while the box was out?
Another one for the list i think. Oh well.
dbv8 said:
Just taken the car out for its test drive. Ran so smooth and gearchanges are easier and precise.
Then as i am manouvering to put it back in the garage the noise comes back!
Not as bad but its there. I now think its metal to metal between the clutch plate and fly.
Can anyone tell me why i didnt remove the clutch and inspect it while the box was out?ll
Another one for the list i think. Oh well.
Oh bugger, did you not replace the spigot bearing then? You could have checked the clutch too Derek. Then as i am manouvering to put it back in the garage the noise comes back!
Not as bad but its there. I now think its metal to metal between the clutch plate and fly.
Can anyone tell me why i didnt remove the clutch and inspect it while the box was out?ll
Another one for the list i think. Oh well.
describe the noise growling or scraping/squealing?Simon says said:
h bugger, did you not replace the spigot bearing then? You could have checked the clutch too Derek. describe the noise growling or scraping/squealing?
I had a closer look at the spigot bearing and checked its internal diameter with a similar size socket to the shaft. Was close enough IMHO. describe the noise growling or scraping/squealing?The noise is a scraping but with a gearish tone to it. It happens just as you engage the clutch. Ie it seems to be doing it as the plate is slipping on the fly. Before the gearbox rebuild it was also making the noise (moreso) while out of gear and no clutch touched. It is also intermittent.
haircutmike said:
An, "Oh bugger" from me to.
At least we're getting really quick at removing boxes and engines
.
On another note, did you get my text Derek?
Yes i emailed you back.At least we're getting really quick at removing boxes and engines
.On another note, did you get my text Derek?
Can divert down to the M25 this afternoon.
I think i will drop the gearbox first tho and check the clutch.
I should have it all apart by 1. Clean up then set off about 3.
Simon says said:
Hi Derek, think i would have to have a look at the driven plate for cracks play in the Cush drive etc followed closely by the pressure plate. 
I agree. Its a John Eales 500 lb cerametallic kit i put in about 3 years ago. I guess its on its way out.After careful consideration i have decided to not bother today.
Gonna set off soon Peter so will meet up somewhere about 4ish if the traffic allows.
dbv8
I know exactly the issues you are faced fitting the later style T5 gearbox in the Chimaera/Griffith chassis as I fitted one in my Precat Griffith. I realise this installation creates extra work but two friends are now copying it because in the future they won’t have to remove the centre console when removing the gearbox.
I guess John Reid suggested changing the rear housing as he changed mine and a friends over for this very reason. So maybe I’m to blame for John Reid suggesting this installation, Sorry. It’s also encouraging to know the last 100 Griffiths also had this later style T5 gearbox but with a different lower bracket arrangement to mine.
If you are interested in how I made my lower bracket then please read on.
With the gearbox installed, jack it up higher than normal and bolt the T5 gearbox cross member to the chassis as normal with the rubber mounts and then lower the gearbox onto it. Now temporarily fit the exhaust and prop to check you are happy with the gearbox position and nothing is fouling. Once happy remove the exhaust and then cut & weld 2 pieces of metal to the cross member as in my picture below. One going forward to the two threaded boltholes and the other going backwards and up the sides of the long bolthole running across the box.
Please note, I'm not in the motor trade nor a qualified engineer so the above does not come with a guarantee.
I know exactly the issues you are faced fitting the later style T5 gearbox in the Chimaera/Griffith chassis as I fitted one in my Precat Griffith. I realise this installation creates extra work but two friends are now copying it because in the future they won’t have to remove the centre console when removing the gearbox.
I guess John Reid suggested changing the rear housing as he changed mine and a friends over for this very reason. So maybe I’m to blame for John Reid suggesting this installation, Sorry. It’s also encouraging to know the last 100 Griffiths also had this later style T5 gearbox but with a different lower bracket arrangement to mine.
If you are interested in how I made my lower bracket then please read on.
With the gearbox installed, jack it up higher than normal and bolt the T5 gearbox cross member to the chassis as normal with the rubber mounts and then lower the gearbox onto it. Now temporarily fit the exhaust and prop to check you are happy with the gearbox position and nothing is fouling. Once happy remove the exhaust and then cut & weld 2 pieces of metal to the cross member as in my picture below. One going forward to the two threaded boltholes and the other going backwards and up the sides of the long bolthole running across the box.
Please note, I'm not in the motor trade nor a qualified engineer so the above does not come with a guarantee.
I didnt have the time, materials etc to make such a bracket.
When John suggested the new tail housing nothing was mentioned about differences in mountings. He also stated the gearstick would be in the same place. It wouldnt be without some work to this also to offset it to the right to line up with interior trim.
It was easier for me at the time to just return and have the old tail refitted which John gladly did on Saturday afternoon. Hes a nice guy but i guess something was lost in translation.
I am pleased i have a fresh stronger gearbox that is working very nicely.
Maybe you or John should make a few more of those brackets. I would have bought one and it would have saved me a lot of grief and 150 mile 3rd trip.
When John suggested the new tail housing nothing was mentioned about differences in mountings. He also stated the gearstick would be in the same place. It wouldnt be without some work to this also to offset it to the right to line up with interior trim.
It was easier for me at the time to just return and have the old tail refitted which John gladly did on Saturday afternoon. Hes a nice guy but i guess something was lost in translation.
I am pleased i have a fresh stronger gearbox that is working very nicely.
Maybe you or John should make a few more of those brackets. I would have bought one and it would have saved me a lot of grief and 150 mile 3rd trip.
stevesprint said:
dbv8
I know exactly the issues you are faced fitting the later style T5 gearbox in the Chimaera/Griffith chassis as I fitted one in my Precat Griffith. I realise this installation creates extra work but two friends are now copying it because in the future they won’t have to remove the centre console when removing the gearbox.
I guess John Reid suggested changing the rear housing as he changed mine and a friends over for this very reason. So maybe I’m to blame for John Reid suggesting this installation, Sorry. It’s also encouraging to know the last 100 Griffiths also had this later style T5 gearbox but with a different lower bracket arrangement to mine.
If you are interested in how I made my lower bracket then please read on.
With the gearbox installed, jack it up higher than normal and bolt the T5 gearbox cross member to the chassis as normal with the rubber mounts and then lower the gearbox onto it. Now temporarily fit the exhaust and prop to check you are happy with the gearbox position and nothing is fouling. Once happy remove the exhaust and then cut & weld 2 pieces of metal to the cross member as in my picture below. One going forward to the two threaded boltholes and the other going backwards and up the sides of the long bolthole running across the box.
Please note, I'm not in the motor trade nor a qualified engineer so the above does not come with a guarantee.
Steve, have you any pictures of this setup in your pre cat Griff.I know exactly the issues you are faced fitting the later style T5 gearbox in the Chimaera/Griffith chassis as I fitted one in my Precat Griffith. I realise this installation creates extra work but two friends are now copying it because in the future they won’t have to remove the centre console when removing the gearbox.
I guess John Reid suggested changing the rear housing as he changed mine and a friends over for this very reason. So maybe I’m to blame for John Reid suggesting this installation, Sorry. It’s also encouraging to know the last 100 Griffiths also had this later style T5 gearbox but with a different lower bracket arrangement to mine.
If you are interested in how I made my lower bracket then please read on.
With the gearbox installed, jack it up higher than normal and bolt the T5 gearbox cross member to the chassis as normal with the rubber mounts and then lower the gearbox onto it. Now temporarily fit the exhaust and prop to check you are happy with the gearbox position and nothing is fouling. Once happy remove the exhaust and then cut & weld 2 pieces of metal to the cross member as in my picture below. One going forward to the two threaded boltholes and the other going backwards and up the sides of the long bolthole running across the box.
Please note, I'm not in the motor trade nor a qualified engineer so the above does not come with a guarantee.
Carsy
Thank you for your email. The following should answer your questions and maybe create some more question.
Yes mine is also a Precat Griffith and yes the later T5 does do away with the external gearlever linkage and yes I successfully installed this later style T5 without modifying the TOP of the chassis. BUT!! You do have to weld the T5 style lower gearbox mounts to the chassis that are already on every T5 chassis, sorry.
In my Precat the lever came up in the correct forwards/backwards position, give or take a few mm, but unfortunately it does have to be offset to the right. Offsetting the lever in a Precat is tricky if you don’t want to cut the fibreglass where the lever comes up. You can see this in the first pictures. I guess offsetting the lever in a 500 that previously had an external linkage would be easier due to the extra space and access panel.
The other issues to convert a Griffith/Chimaera from LT77 to T5 are as follows:
1. Fit a road speed sensor to the propshaft as the T5 does not have one. It will have to be compatible with the speedo and the ECU.
2. Buy and shorten a Griffith 500 propshaft.
3. Install a Griffith 500 chassis brace where the LT77 gearbox bracket bolted to the chassis. It’s the white bracket in the top of the picture below.
4. Grind down the bell housing where the external lever rose joint screws into the bell housing.
Although this installation has worked for me for the last 2 years I can’t guarantee it will work for you.
Thank you for your email. The following should answer your questions and maybe create some more question.
Yes mine is also a Precat Griffith and yes the later T5 does do away with the external gearlever linkage and yes I successfully installed this later style T5 without modifying the TOP of the chassis. BUT!! You do have to weld the T5 style lower gearbox mounts to the chassis that are already on every T5 chassis, sorry.
In my Precat the lever came up in the correct forwards/backwards position, give or take a few mm, but unfortunately it does have to be offset to the right. Offsetting the lever in a Precat is tricky if you don’t want to cut the fibreglass where the lever comes up. You can see this in the first pictures. I guess offsetting the lever in a 500 that previously had an external linkage would be easier due to the extra space and access panel.
The other issues to convert a Griffith/Chimaera from LT77 to T5 are as follows:
1. Fit a road speed sensor to the propshaft as the T5 does not have one. It will have to be compatible with the speedo and the ECU.
2. Buy and shorten a Griffith 500 propshaft.
3. Install a Griffith 500 chassis brace where the LT77 gearbox bracket bolted to the chassis. It’s the white bracket in the top of the picture below.
4. Grind down the bell housing where the external lever rose joint screws into the bell housing.
Although this installation has worked for me for the last 2 years I can’t guarantee it will work for you.
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