Temperature guage what do u normally see ?
Discussion
jojackson4 said:
Thinking of doing the range rover mod are the gauges all the same resistance wise?
I have a mk 1
Make of gauges I don't know
If you have the original ETB black rimmed gauges then they are different to the later gauges but ETB Instruments sold me the correct sensor for those gauges to go into a 1/8 NPT hole (which is the RR sender size as far as I know) - still need to fit mine but just been rushed into hospital today so it may be a bit before I get chance. I have a mk 1
Make of gauges I don't know
I am on the later Caerbont gauges and I see 70 most of the time. In traffic it rises to 80/85 and the fans come on. Original temperature sender and otter switch in the radiator. Before I bled the system it wouldn't get up to temperature but it would rise to 90 or so in traffic with the fans cutting in an and out.
On a cold day it sits at 60 but since I bled it the heater is so much better.
On a cold day it sits at 60 but since I bled it the heater is so much better.
Edited by Trevor450 on Wednesday 15th May 23:13
Bassfiend229hp said:
If you have the original ETB black rimmed gauges then they are different to the later gauges but ETB Instruments sold me the correct sensor for those gauges to go into a 1/8 NPT hole (which is the RR sender size as far as I know) - still need to fit mine but just been rushed into hospital today so it may be a bit before I get chance.
Get well soon Phil, hope you're OK mate?Dave.
Bassfiend229hp said:
jojackson4 said:
Thinking of doing the range rover mod are the gauges all the same resistance wise?
I have a mk 1
Make of gauges I don't know
If you have the original ETB black rimmed gauges then they are different to the later gauges but ETB Instruments sold me the correct sensor for those gauges to go into a 1/8 NPT hole (which is the RR sender size as far as I know) - still need to fit mine but just been rushed into hospital today so it may be a bit before I get chance. I have a mk 1
Make of gauges I don't know
What are they?
Get well soon
s
t photo but I hope you get the driftEdited by jojackson4 on Thursday 16th May 17:16
There will be a plug & play kit available soon to solve the under reading gauge problem once & for all.
The system will correctly match the later Caerbont temperature gauge with the normally unused (but much better positioned) Range Rover temperature sender.
Rather than the simple (but flawed) 170 Ohm resistor currently used by people doing this mod, the new system will provide correction for gain & offset.
This means for the first time your TVR gauge will show you the true coolant temperature readings throughout the full range of the gauge, rather than just a small area on the gauge.
Knowing if your engine is about to overheat is clearly an essential function of a temperature gauge and ultimately a failing of the 170 Ohm resistor mod.
Finally a over temperature buzzer will be offered, in summary you'll always know the true coolant temperature & have an early warning of overheating so you can avoid costly overheating engine damage before it happens.
The system will correctly match the later Caerbont temperature gauge with the normally unused (but much better positioned) Range Rover temperature sender.
Rather than the simple (but flawed) 170 Ohm resistor currently used by people doing this mod, the new system will provide correction for gain & offset.
This means for the first time your TVR gauge will show you the true coolant temperature readings throughout the full range of the gauge, rather than just a small area on the gauge.
Knowing if your engine is about to overheat is clearly an essential function of a temperature gauge and ultimately a failing of the 170 Ohm resistor mod.
Finally a over temperature buzzer will be offered, in summary you'll always know the true coolant temperature & have an early warning of overheating so you can avoid costly overheating engine damage before it happens.
ChimpOnGas said:
There will be a plug & play kit available soon to solve the under reading gauge problem once & for all.
The system will correctly match the later Caerbont temperature gauge with the normally unused (but much better positioned) Range Rover temperature sender.
Rather than the simple (but flawed) 170 Ohm resistor currently used by people doing this mod, the new system will provide correction for gain & offset.
This means for the first time your TVR gauge will show you the true coolant temperature readings throughout the full range of the gauge, rather than just a small area on the gauge.
Knowing if your engine is about to overheat is clearly an essential function of a temperature gauge and ultimately a failing of the 170 Ohm resistor mod.
Finally a over temperature buzzer will be offered, in summary you'll always know the true coolant temperature & have an early warning of overheating so you can avoid costly overheating engine damage before it happens.
I'll be up for one of those Dave, I could never get the range rover mod to work as well as I'd liked.The system will correctly match the later Caerbont temperature gauge with the normally unused (but much better positioned) Range Rover temperature sender.
Rather than the simple (but flawed) 170 Ohm resistor currently used by people doing this mod, the new system will provide correction for gain & offset.
This means for the first time your TVR gauge will show you the true coolant temperature readings throughout the full range of the gauge, rather than just a small area on the gauge.
Knowing if your engine is about to overheat is clearly an essential function of a temperature gauge and ultimately a failing of the 170 Ohm resistor mod.
Finally a over temperature buzzer will be offered, in summary you'll always know the true coolant temperature & have an early warning of overheating so you can avoid costly overheating engine damage before it happens.
What temp is the buzzer set to?
Discopotatoes said:
I'll be up for one of those Dave, I could never get the range rover mod to work as well as I'd liked.
What temp is the buzzer set to?
Hi mate, the buzzer will come supplied pre-set at whatever temperature you want (say 98 degrees), but ultimately its completely user configurable.What temp is the buzzer set to?
At a later date if you prefer it to come on at 95, 100, 105 degrees ect, simply make the necessary adjustment.
The sender resistance will be plotted throughout the temperature range and shown on a graph provided with the fitting instructions, just turn the dial until the buzzer comes on at your chosen resistance value (IE temp).
Simples
HKGriff said:
Was this P&P kit completed, and, if so, where can it be obtained?
TIA.
No, the resistor I fitted on the Range Rover sender worked so well I never pursued it.TIA.
I did however add an LED to my temp gauge which cycles from blue to green to red, but this is wired to a temp sensor on my LPG vaporiser rather than the coolant temp sensor itself.
HKGriff said:
That's comforting to know. Added to the 'to do list'. I think I may have also sent you a PM about the electric water pump you have fitted ...!
I've been running a staged fan and electric booster pump set up for some time now, running fan one and the electric booster pump (EBP) early triggered by the otter switch which are now wired on a permanent live so both run after the ignition is switched off. My Canems ECU brings on the second fan at a slightly higher temperature just to assist the primary system which is sufficient in itself to control idle coolant temps 90% of the time, on a really hot day in a traffic jam fan one & the pump run more or less continually with fan two cycling on and off.
Like I say 90% of the time fan one & the EBP does the job of holding the coolant at the perfect 88-90 degrees, with the second fan only really needed after extended idling time in hot weather. I've been running this system for over a year now and it works perfectly, more recently I put it through a punishing traffic jam test in France where ambiant temperatures rose above 98 degrees, this test showed my coolant temps never exceeded a very upper limit of 93 degrees.
I've seen temps surge up to 98 degrees plus with the traditional no fans & no water flow on switch off set up, running fan one and the EBP off a permanent live eliminates this heat surge as both will run on for approximately 30 seconds with the engine switched off on a really hot day.
With this set up I run an 88 degree Range Rover thermostat which I found holds temps much more consistently at the target 90 degrees than the old 82 degree one TVR specified. TBH the electric water pump started out as a way of driving coolant through my LPG vaporiser as the car warms up, the idea was to speed up the point I can switch to LPG on cold mornings but I actually found it was largely unnecessary.
The idea then came to me I could also use the pump to help control engine temps at the upper end and assist in eliminating heat soak when you switch the engine off, heat surge on engine switch off is often overlooked. People tend to solely focus on controlling coolant temps while the engine is running but fail to realise engine coolant tempts are at their hottest point shortly after the engine is switched off, this is because the mechanical water pump isn't turning and in the standard TVR set up the fans don't run with the ignition switched off no matter how hot the coolant becomes.
With the standard arrangement when you switch your Chimaera engine off there's no coolant flow other than thermosyphon and because there are no fans running too there's zero airflow through the rad, all cars for the last 20 years or more are wired so the fans continue to run after switch off, only TVR in their wisdom decided the fans should go completely dead when you turn the ignition off
My system has just an added line of defence against heat surge which may leave hot spots in the water ways around the heads after a hot switch off, many modern cars are running electric water pumps these days and like all manufacturers run electric fans after switch off they also run the pump after switch off too.
My observations of how the coolant temperatures behave on my Canems software shows airflow and coolant circulation after switch off eliminates heat surge, if you think the pump is a step too far for you I would still recommend wiring your fans so the stay on after switch off, there's very good reason why all car manufacturers do it this way. Or at the very least, turn your ignition back on after turning the engine off so the fans will run, leave it this way until the fans go off before the final switch off of your ignition.
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