Spark plugs

Spark plugs

Author
Discussion

whipmawhopma

Original Poster:

460 posts

151 months

Sunday 8th July 2012
quotequote all
Planning to do my own basic service i.e. engine and gearbox oil change, filter and spark plugs.
Noticed in the "bible" it states that to remove and replace the NGK B7ECS plugs he uses both 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch sockets.
Anyone else use 2 sockets and why?

Thanks

Russell Mc

573 posts

152 months

Sunday 8th July 2012
quotequote all
Is that not that you can use either 3/8 or 1/2 inch DRIVE socket set to do the job?

Harrytsg

1,264 posts

163 months

Sunday 8th July 2012
quotequote all
I used 3/8 drive sockets because I have more bits that make it agile when trying to access the harder plugs, wobble drives, uj's etc

Simon says

18,962 posts

222 months

Sunday 8th July 2012
quotequote all
3/8 drive much more versatile in the enclosed space on these cars (especially the rear cylinders) and more than man enough for the job in hand thumbup

taylormj4

1,563 posts

267 months

Monday 9th July 2012
quotequote all
You may have a problem before you get at the spark plugs. I just cannot get the spark plug extender off the off side front plug. Have pulled as hard as I can but it just will not come off.

Simon says

18,962 posts

222 months

Monday 9th July 2012
quotequote all
taylormj4 said:
You may have a problem before you get at the spark plugs. I just cannot get the spark plug extender off the off side front plug. Have pulled as hard as I can but it just will not come off.
While your pulling wiggle the extender in a rotational pattern keeping a firm pull and it should release wink

taylormj4

1,563 posts

267 months

Tuesday 10th July 2012
quotequote all
Simon says said:
hile your pulling wiggle the extender in a rotational pattern keeping a firm pull and it should release wink
Tried that and also hauling back and forth. All that seems to have happened is that the extender now will move back and forth against the plug, which suggests it is now partially damaged. All the others come off OK but not this one.
Am a bit concerned it's welded itself to the plug.
I removed another one and it looks a bit like someones sanded the top of the plug, the dome has flat spots around the sides, which is a bit strange.

I pulled as hard as I could and tried the wiggle and different rotations etc but still stuck fast. Worried I will damage the plug thread in the block if I pull andy harder or use leverage.

Ribol

11,298 posts

259 months

Tuesday 10th July 2012
quotequote all
taylormj4 said:
...............the extender now will move back and forth against the plug, which suggests it is now partially damaged. All the others come off OK but not this one. Am a bit concerned it's welded itself to the plug. I removed another one and it looks a bit like someones sanded the top of the plug, the dome has flat spots around the sides, which is a bit strange.

I pulled as hard as I could and tried the wiggle and different rotations etc but still stuck fast. Worried I will damage the plug thread in the block if I pull andy harder or use leverage.
If the extender is loose now then it is probably knackered anyway in which case you have nothing to lose by yanking it off with waterpump pliers or similar. Nothing you do(*) to the plug is going to damage the plug threads, all you will do is break the ceramic bit off the top of the plug.

(*) unless you are a complete animal wink

carsy

3,018 posts

166 months

Tuesday 10th July 2012
quotequote all
When you have got the extenders off bin them and put on some of these instead.

They protect a lot more of your ht lead than the small extenders.

Mine arrived from America in about 10 days.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spark-Plug-Wire-High-Hea...

whipmawhopma

Original Poster:

460 posts

151 months

Tuesday 10th July 2012
quotequote all
carsy said:
When you have got the extenders off bin them and put on some of these instead.

They protect a lot more of your ht lead than the small extenders.

Mine arrived from America in about 10 days.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spark-Plug-Wire-High-Hea...
These look great.... I assume you have had these on a while now without issue?

SILICONEKID340HP

14,997 posts

232 months

Tuesday 10th July 2012
quotequote all
I would still fit the extenders ,the socks would fit over the extenders ,lengthening the life of the plug extenders and leads, stopping problems like damaging plug extenders due to them being seized from the heat.



These are cheap enough worth a punt at £20

http://www.cableorganizer.com/insultherm-spark/

carsy

3,018 posts

166 months

Tuesday 10th July 2012
quotequote all
There is no need to fit the extenders at all Daz. With these socks they are a waste of time IMO. These socks provide loads more heat protection covering all the vulnerable parts of the leads.

The extenders were just an attempt to keep the leads a bit further away from the manifolds and as has been recently said, they are just an unecessary piece in the jigsaw with the potential to give problems.

Simon says

18,962 posts

222 months

Tuesday 10th July 2012
quotequote all
carsy said:
There is no need to fit the extenders at all Daz. With these socks they are a waste of time IMO. These socks provide loads more heat protection covering all the vulnerable parts of the leads.

The extenders were just an attempt to keep the leads a bit further away from the manifolds and as has been recently said, they are just an unecessary piece in the jigsaw with the potential to give problems.
+1

SILICONEKID340HP

14,997 posts

232 months

Tuesday 10th July 2012
quotequote all
Problem is the leads are still closer the the very hot manifolds , who is to say these socks are going to last the test of time .. Once the socks fail the leads will be finished in a very short time..

Iv`e not seen any manifolds so close to the leads as Chimaera..!

ChimpofDarkness

9,637 posts

180 months

Tuesday 10th July 2012
quotequote all
+ 2

Ditched mine a couple of years ago, adding glass woven socks & Magnecore KV85 leads at the same time.

Never had an issue, in fact the extenders are just another connection, so in my opinion only serve to add 8 potential points of failure.

Just make sure you use decent high temp silicone HT leads with the glass woven socks, & you won't have an issue.

Deleting the extenders scratchchin

It's a no-brainer yes


SILICONEKID340HP

14,997 posts

232 months

Tuesday 10th July 2012
quotequote all
Are these good enough ?The ones from Demon Tweaks and other UK sites are over £70

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spark-Plug-Wire-High-Hea...

SILICONEKID340HP

14,997 posts

232 months

Tuesday 10th July 2012
quotequote all
Simon says said:
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Problem is the leads are still closer the the very hot manifolds , who is to say these socks are going to last the test of time .. Once the socks fail the leads will be finished in a very short time..

Iv`e not seen any manifolds so close to the leads as Chimaera..!
Thats what maintenance is all about Daz wink time will tell but there is an awful lot of yanks using them and they don't suffer performance parts that don't work lightly scratchchin if you want to see leads that have a tough time then look no further than a SB Chevy with Fuelie heads fitted frown
Ok ,my plug extenders are past there best ,falling to bits ,there resistive so if i go for the boots the plugs will be swapped ..

The B7ECS will need to go, there raedy to be changed.

There has been major discussions on here and im aware the B7ECS are not available in Resistive form so which one is it

BR7ES or BPR7ES ? im aware the BP7ES are a popular alternitive but there not resistive cheers.



Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Tuesday 10th July 23:02

Simon says

18,962 posts

222 months

Tuesday 10th July 2012
quotequote all
If you intend to fit Yank leads i.e Accel etc you can change to the small bodied plugs like NGK - BCPR7E/BCPR7ES failing that just fit BPR7ES/BPR7E if you do away with the extenders but keep your leads wink

taylormj4

1,563 posts

267 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
Liking the boots in place of the extenders as long as they are up to the job.

Can someone explain the resistive plug / extenders / Magnecor issues again to me. I'm an electrical engineer but I can't understand the theory behind these resistive elements in the circuit. No one seems to change the coil to match the plug / lead / extender combination.

The coil provides low current / high voltage. It's the voltage that is needed to initiate the spark plus a reasonable amount of stored energy to maintain the arc long enough to start the flame front off. Extra resistance is going to drop the resistance at the plug (seemingly not a good idea) but could increase the duration of the spark by increasing the discharge time.

What is the purpose of having resistive plugs / leads / extenders and why have Magnecor gone a different route ? Which are the best - anyone done comparisons, maybe with one of those spark/combustion viewing devices ?

Edited by taylormj4 on Wednesday 11th July 13:56

SILICONEKID340HP

14,997 posts

232 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
taylormj4 said:
Liking the boots in place of the extenders as long as they are up to the job.

Can someone explain the resistive plug / extenders / Magnecor issues again to me. I'm an electrical engineer but I can't understand the theory behind these resistive elements in the circuit. No one seems to change the coil to match the plug / lead / extender combination.

The coil provides low current / high voltage. It's the voltage that is needed to initiate the spark plus a reasonable amount of stored energy to maintain the arc long enough to start the flame front off. Extra resistance is going to drop the resistance at the plug (seemingly not a good idea) but could increase the duration of the spark by increasing the discharge time.

What is the purpose of having resistive plugs / leads / extenders and why have Magnecor gone a different route ? Which are the best - anyone done comparisons, maybe with one of those spark/combustion viewing devices ?

Edited by taylormj4 on Wednesday 11th July 13:56
Its more of a problem with after market ECU`s ,if i remove the resisted plug extenders 8ohms the plugs need to be resistive ..

I`ve had my Megasquirt looked at on datalogs and to date no spikes interference etc.