JFReturns' TVR Chimaera 4.0
Discussion
L40JRC said:
I notice you have the old style number plates on your Chim, any trouble with the boys in blue, i fancy having these on mine but didn't want the risk. Anybody else using these? Also, think they might be an MOT failure?
Nice motor.............
Not been pulled even when the BIB pulled up next to me in the petrol station, but I've been told they are illegal so will replace with the normal plates tomorrow. They look fantastic though! Nice motor.............
Had a great day out at a posh restaurant, took the tiv and it didn't look out of place amongst all the mega expensive barges. I love this car.
A relative has just bought a diesel XF-S, good Lord it is rapid... there was not much in it on the straights, but you can guess which sounded better
JFReturns said:
Not been pulled even when the BIB pulled up next to me in the petrol station, but I've been told they are illegal so will replace with the normal plates tomorrow. They look fantastic though!
Had a great day out at a posh restaurant, took the tiv and it didn't look out of place amongst all the mega expensive barges. I love this car.
A relative has just bought a diesel XF-S, good Lord it is rapid... there was not much in it on the straights, but you can guess which sounded better
You have to admit, the old style plates do look good; I'd be tempted to risk it and keep them! Agree, these cars look fantastic and certainly look expensive. The jag may be nice but will it hold the same appeal as your Chim in 15 - 20 years from now, I suspect not?Had a great day out at a posh restaurant, took the tiv and it didn't look out of place amongst all the mega expensive barges. I love this car.
A relative has just bought a diesel XF-S, good Lord it is rapid... there was not much in it on the straights, but you can guess which sounded better
Sure.....but you will flatten it again sooner or later. Mine was flattened by an immobiliser fault, the one on my Audi by leaving the lights on, the one on my 4x4 by not using it often enough or for long enough.
And what I was really saying was try charging it first before you decide to change it. Charge it even if it won't jump start. A large engined car often won't jump start if the battery is really flat.
And what I was really saying was try charging it first before you decide to change it. Charge it even if it won't jump start. A large engined car often won't jump start if the battery is really flat.
Edited by QBee on Saturday 9th February 21:13
Help please chaps - the Chim has always been a bit grumpy on start up in the cold... hunting idle, spluttering for a minute or two until warmed up then fine. However, of late she really stutters below 2,000 rpm for a good while. After 30 minutes and really warm she is fine, but it seems to be getting a bit worse.
So I've gone through the forum, and I think I should:
- Clean stepper motor
- Replace distributor cap, ignition coil
- Get some magnecor leads and replace sparks
Two questions; am I in the right direction? Can a novice like myself fit the above, or is it for the more experienced mechanics?
On a different note, got her some new shoes today after the Toyos were past their best:
£380 all in including tracking check and adjustment - toe and camber were within tolerance, track rods required a little adjusting and she feels great. Steering is lighter, and she doesn't seem to crash over bumps so much now. Had a bit of a moment when giving it some beans, guess the tyres need scrubbing in a bit!
So I've gone through the forum, and I think I should:
- Clean stepper motor
- Replace distributor cap, ignition coil
- Get some magnecor leads and replace sparks
Two questions; am I in the right direction? Can a novice like myself fit the above, or is it for the more experienced mechanics?
On a different note, got her some new shoes today after the Toyos were past their best:
£380 all in including tracking check and adjustment - toe and camber were within tolerance, track rods required a little adjusting and she feels great. Steering is lighter, and she doesn't seem to crash over bumps so much now. Had a bit of a moment when giving it some beans, guess the tyres need scrubbing in a bit!
Replace the plug leads one at a time.........getting them muddled is Rubik's cube time for beginners
Plugs - you can get Iridium 6s if you like - they run hotter and seem to give a more responsive drive and so on. Doubt they will help the start up.
There is a rubber hose running from around near the plenum. If it is partially blocked, it can cause the car to tend to stall until warmed up, but you are only talking 90 seconds on my car. I will post a photo below. Yours sounds to me like poor spark, so change plugs, leads, distributor cap, coil.......one at a time and test
Rubber hose:
Plugs - you can get Iridium 6s if you like - they run hotter and seem to give a more responsive drive and so on. Doubt they will help the start up.
There is a rubber hose running from around near the plenum. If it is partially blocked, it can cause the car to tend to stall until warmed up, but you are only talking 90 seconds on my car. I will post a photo below. Yours sounds to me like poor spark, so change plugs, leads, distributor cap, coil.......one at a time and test
Rubber hose:
JFReturns said:
Help please chaps - the Chim has always been a bit grumpy on start up in the cold... hunting idle, spluttering for a minute or two until warmed up then fine. However, of late she really stutters below 2,000 rpm for a good while. After 30 minutes and really warm she is fine, but it seems to be getting a bit worse.
So I've gone through the forum, and I think I should:
- Clean stepper motor
- Replace distributor cap, ignition coil
- Get some magnecor leads and replace sparks
Two questions; am I in the right direction? Can a novice like myself fit the above, or is it for the more experienced mechanics?
On a different note, got her some new shoes today after the Toyos were past their best:
£380 all in including tracking check and adjustment - toe and camber were within tolerance, track rods required a little adjusting and she feels great. Steering is lighter, and she doesn't seem to crash over bumps so much now. Had a bit of a moment when giving it some beans, guess the tyres need scrubbing in a bit!
Are they KU31`s ,think they are the new Toyo T1R !So I've gone through the forum, and I think I should:
- Clean stepper motor
- Replace distributor cap, ignition coil
- Get some magnecor leads and replace sparks
Two questions; am I in the right direction? Can a novice like myself fit the above, or is it for the more experienced mechanics?
On a different note, got her some new shoes today after the Toyos were past their best:
£380 all in including tracking check and adjustment - toe and camber were within tolerance, track rods required a little adjusting and she feels great. Steering is lighter, and she doesn't seem to crash over bumps so much now. Had a bit of a moment when giving it some beans, guess the tyres need scrubbing in a bit!
Actually replacing the leads all at the same time is easier, providing you know which is No.1 on the distributor. I got muddled on mine until somebody on PH very kindly supplied me with a diagram. If you've already got the leads, rotor arm and distributor cap, you may as well do them all at the same time. The dizzy cap is pain to take off with the HT leads attached and you run the risk of damaging the carbon brush on the inside of the cap. I've not done my plugs yet. I gather they could do with a clean, but they're quite tight and I think I could do a bit of a little penetrating oil to loosen them.
See below for diagram.
See below for diagram.
Took mine out yesterday for a leak down test. The access was more the problem, especially at the start when the exhausts were still hot. Short extension (about 4-5 inches, plus a ratchet handle. I have a feeling it was a 14mm plug socket, but they weren't my tools. They actually came out quite easily, threading them correctly to go back in was more of a problem, made easier by putting the plug into the socket spanner first with out the handle attached, and turning it gently with my fingers
SILICONEKID350HP said:
The spark plug spanner is the secret ,i tried one out of the socket set .waste of time ! I bought a cheapy thing which seems to have more movement ..start with your fingers the block is only aluminum !
.
I agree Daz, should be fingers - I kept either cross threading them or dropping them, and in desperation tried them in the socket (very gently) and it was actually easier to line them up correctly..
Edited by SILICONEKID350HP on Friday 22 February 20:38
The easiest way to fit the plugs that you cant start by hand is to use a piece of coolant hose (about 12" long) which is a push fit over the plug, this works as a handy flexible drive and you can screw them in fully, pull the hose off the plug and then tighten the last 1/2" turn with the 14mm plug socket. All 8 out and new in less than 30 minutes. Thanks
JFReturns said:
Not been pulled even when the BIB pulled up next to me in the petrol station, but I've been told they are illegal so will replace with the normal plates tomorrow. They look fantastic though!
Did you change the plates? I know two people who run them and have been told by the BiB that having them is a risk to the cars security. Apparently, the cameras can't read old style number plates. 
TV8 said:
Did you change the plates? I know two people who run them and have been told by the BiB that having them is a risk to the cars security. Apparently, the cameras can't read old style number plates.
Not quite sure I see that as a security issue.......more a problem with their charity collections.... 
I was told by a BiB once, when pulled over, that if there was just one thing wrong they wouldn't normally bother to stop you, as it was too much hassle to be worth it. Two warranted a pull. So if you are on illegal number plates, you might not get away with the stop light bulb that had just blown, or being a bit noisy, or pulling out of a side road into a TVR sized gap in the traffic.
Thanks for the replies all. I've spoken to the mechanic who I bought the Chim from and he did the plugs a month before I got it, so I'll leave them for the time being and just do distributor cap, ignition coil and leads.
Cleaned the stepper motor and butterfly valve in the throttle opening. Stepper motor wasn't bad but the butterfly valve was pretty caked in soot.
As for plates, yes, I put the (boring) standard ones on and they look poop!
Took a wheel off and had a good look at the chassis - seems solid, though with surface rust. But I spotted a small hole that I don't think should be there. It had been painted over and now the paint flaked off to expose it
Meh, at some point I'll probably replace the outriggers - it should increase it's sale value so its money well spent imo.
Cleaned the stepper motor and butterfly valve in the throttle opening. Stepper motor wasn't bad but the butterfly valve was pretty caked in soot.
As for plates, yes, I put the (boring) standard ones on and they look poop!
Took a wheel off and had a good look at the chassis - seems solid, though with surface rust. But I spotted a small hole that I don't think should be there. It had been painted over and now the paint flaked off to expose it
Meh, at some point I'll probably replace the outriggers - it should increase it's sale value so its money well spent imo.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff