JFReturns' TVR Chimaera 4.0
Discussion
Got a few bits done today; ordered some magnecor leads and spark plugs shrouds. Mine are rusted and I suspect are the cause of my stuttering problem. Ordered an ACT induction kit to replace the nasty heatsoaked K&N in there at the moment. Also removed the wheels, sealed them and cleaned all the dirt and stones that have collected round the corners of the outriggers. Pleased to say each corner is solid, other than some surface rust.
Also gave her a first clean! Bodywork is very, very good for a 15 year old car. A few pics to stop this being a boring update:
Also gave her a first clean! Bodywork is very, very good for a 15 year old car. A few pics to stop this being a boring update:
Not sure, haven't fitted them yet John. I don't think it is ignition coil, as the problem seems to get slightly better when hot, whereas a failed coil is the other way round. Might be dodgy distributor cap, I'll replace that next.
Hopefully I'll get a chance Sunday, will update this thread when I do.
Hopefully I'll get a chance Sunday, will update this thread when I do.
JFReturns said:
Look what presents turned up today 
Anyone got any tips for fitting this gear, especially the ACT induction kit?
Yes, it is likely that you will have to cut / trim the complicated twisty hose quite a lot to get it to fit nicely. The best way to trim these hoses is to push the steel tube in one end, then fit and tighten the jubilee clip up so the edge of the clip is where you want to cut it and use a sharp knife. This leaves a lovely square edged clean cut. If unsure PM me. Cheers.Anyone got any tips for fitting this gear, especially the ACT induction kit?
Stuttering solved!
So I started off by replacing all the leads and shrouds. The shrouds in particular were minging:
However, the car wouldn't start! I checked and double checked the leads, then noticed a tube looked slightly split. I must have knocked it and made it worse changing the leads. I think it is the vacuum advance pipe - snipped the end of, reattached and boom.
I'm pretty sure this was the cause of the stuttering, so I've replaced the shrouds and leads unnecessarily, but who cares they are SHINY
Just need to tidy up the leads and fit the induction kit next.
So I started off by replacing all the leads and shrouds. The shrouds in particular were minging:
However, the car wouldn't start! I checked and double checked the leads, then noticed a tube looked slightly split. I must have knocked it and made it worse changing the leads. I think it is the vacuum advance pipe - snipped the end of, reattached and boom.
I'm pretty sure this was the cause of the stuttering, so I've replaced the shrouds and leads unnecessarily, but who cares they are SHINY
Just need to tidy up the leads and fit the induction kit next.
I fiited the induction kit to my old Chimaera (M145 KUH - where are you now?)
It's an easy job provided you have all three elbows on you right arm
First connect it all together off the car (except AFM) so you can work out which bends go where. The awkward area is where the steel adaptor tube goes through the front bulkhead as the bulkhead is vertical, but the steel tube goes through at an angle, so the silicone tubes don't butt up flush to each side of the bulkhead. Once you've worked that out in your head, dry fit it all off the car so that you can see whatdo the bulkhead connection first:
- connect the silicon tube that runs in front of the radiator to the steel tube first outside the car then insert through the bulkhead - don't push the silicon tube onto the steel tube too far.
- now connect the silicon tube on the other end of the steel tube so that the silicon tubes on both sides are touching the bulkhead somewhere to hold it all in place.
- add the heat shield to the long tube (bulkhead to AFM)
- the rest is obvious.
Also, makes sure that you have a can of very hot water - put the ends of the silicon tubes into it for 30 seconds to soften them before trying to fit them to the steel tube - makes lfe easier.
Shouldn't take more than an hour, including swear words. Good luck
It's an easy job provided you have all three elbows on you right arm
First connect it all together off the car (except AFM) so you can work out which bends go where. The awkward area is where the steel adaptor tube goes through the front bulkhead as the bulkhead is vertical, but the steel tube goes through at an angle, so the silicone tubes don't butt up flush to each side of the bulkhead. Once you've worked that out in your head, dry fit it all off the car so that you can see whatdo the bulkhead connection first:
- connect the silicon tube that runs in front of the radiator to the steel tube first outside the car then insert through the bulkhead - don't push the silicon tube onto the steel tube too far.
- now connect the silicon tube on the other end of the steel tube so that the silicon tubes on both sides are touching the bulkhead somewhere to hold it all in place.
- add the heat shield to the long tube (bulkhead to AFM)
- the rest is obvious.
Also, makes sure that you have a can of very hot water - put the ends of the silicon tubes into it for 30 seconds to soften them before trying to fit them to the steel tube - makes lfe easier.
Shouldn't take more than an hour, including swear words. Good luck
TV8 said:
JFReturns said:
Not been pulled even when the BIB pulled up next to me in the petrol station, but I've been told they are illegal so will replace with the normal plates tomorrow. They look fantastic though!
Did you change the plates? I know two people who run them and have been told by the BiB that having them is a risk to the cars security. Apparently, the cameras can't read old style number plates. 
fausTVR said:
Going a bit OT but my daily has old style plates (legally as it's in it's 51st year), does this mean I'm effectively invisible to the whole big brother surviellance system we call a road network? Shame I'm not a crimminal really. ..hmm...
Hi FausYou are in our part of the world I see ( I am in Norfolk, but work around Cambridge) - do you ever do track days? Do you fancy trying one?
QBee said:
fausTVR said:
Going a bit OT but my daily has old style plates (legally as it's in it's 51st year), does this mean I'm effectively invisible to the whole big brother surviellance system we call a road network? Shame I'm not a crimminal really. ..hmm...
Hi FausYou are in our part of the world I see ( I am in Norfolk, but work around Cambridge) - do you ever do track days? Do you fancy trying one?
I need to break out the man maths to justify a slight 'downgrade' or a TIV stablemate for the chim.
fausTVR said:
Hi QBee and thanks. I'm in Letchworth so fairly central. A trackday or similar is an itch that needs to be scratched for me, but my TIV I have to admit is a bit of a garage queen (but still with a few of the usual foilbles) and I determined I wouldn't track it for that reason. It seems that I should have bought a cheaper one with a few more miles on, so I would have no qualms about winter use, ragging it around a track and some modifying, all of which I know I'd love to do, I'm well aware I'm missing out here.
I need to break out the man maths to justify a slight 'downgrade' or a TIV stablemate for the chim.
Furry nuff.I need to break out the man maths to justify a slight 'downgrade' or a TIV stablemate for the chim.
I wouldn't dream of trying to persuade you that they are designed for the track, that you don't need to "rag it", just drive it smoothly and quickly, and that you would have a great time finding the limits of both you and the car if you choose somewhere like Snetterton or Bedford that has a lot of run off and very few loose stones to chip your paintwork (ie no worse than the public highway)
And I would be mortified if you did go on one and managed to crash into the scenery or break it. Cars don't tend to crash into each other on track days, the rules are strict and nothing is timed.
If you can bear to come along and watch or passenger the first time, rather than drive, then let me know and i am sure we can arrange something
QBee said:
fausTVR said:
Hi QBee and thanks. I'm in Letchworth so fairly central. A trackday or similar is an itch that needs to be scratched for me, but my TIV I have to admit is a bit of a garage queen (but still with a few of the usual foilbles) and I determined I wouldn't track it for that reason. It seems that I should have bought a cheaper one with a few more miles on, so I would have no qualms about winter use, ragging it around a track and some modifying, all of which I know I'd love to do, I'm well aware I'm missing out here.
I need to break out the man maths to justify a slight 'downgrade' or a TIV stablemate for the chim.
Furry nuff.I need to break out the man maths to justify a slight 'downgrade' or a TIV stablemate for the chim.
I wouldn't dream of trying to persuade you that they are designed for the track, that you don't need to "rag it", just drive it smoothly and quickly, and that you would have a great time finding the limits of both you and the car if you choose somewhere like Snetterton or Bedford that has a lot of run off and very few loose stones to chip your paintwork (ie no worse than the public highway)
And I would be mortified if you did go on one and managed to crash into the scenery or break it. Cars don't tend to crash into each other on track days, the rules are strict and nothing is timed.
If you can bear to come along and watch or passenger the first time, rather than drive, then let me know and i am sure we can arrange something
Konrod said:
~ Helpful post ~
Thanks very much for this, very useful.Took me three hours, found it tough! But then I'm a mechanical n00b
The hardest bit was connecting the large engine bay pipe to the metal tube by the radiator bulkhead. Actually scrap that, the hardest bit was getting a jubilee clip on that connection! I'm still not convinced it is on properly.... I started her and she sounded okay, but I'm going to jack her up and try and get my eyes on the bottom of the connection to check it is flush.
Quite surprised by how much need trimming! We're talking inches, especially from the plenum to AFM elbow.
Still, should help the old girl breath nice cold air instead of heat soaked stuffy air from the engine bay. Some (bad) pics, please let me know if you spot anything wrong:
The old girl is booked in for a 6k service tomorrow so thought I'd give her a good clean up. Found some cubby holes I didn't know existed, and found this:
The owners manual and service book! I bought the car knowing it had no history, so finding this is a bonus.... the previous owner obviously didn't know it was there. The history starts from 2003 so I imagine the first owner lost the manual as it really is brand new looking. Also another immobiliser key.
Oh, and does this mean I've got a 5.0?
I suspect not... And finally I fed the leather (smells nice) and gave her a good clean. Shiny:
Hopefully I won't have a list as long as my arm that needs doing tomorrow.
The owners manual and service book! I bought the car knowing it had no history, so finding this is a bonus.... the previous owner obviously didn't know it was there. The history starts from 2003 so I imagine the first owner lost the manual as it really is brand new looking. Also another immobiliser key.
Oh, and does this mean I've got a 5.0?
I suspect not... And finally I fed the leather (smells nice) and gave her a good clean. Shiny:
Hopefully I won't have a list as long as my arm that needs doing tomorrow.
Just got back the Chim back home, she's had a good going over to find out bits that need doing. Firtly, and most importantly, the entire chassis needs a good clean up and paint but is otherwise sound She has also had a new clutch at some point, which is nice to know. A few little bits and pieces were done, but stuff that needs doing is:
- Rear offside shock is clunking
- Clutch master cylinder leaking
- Gear box bung and plate missing
- Hood ears missing
- Exhaust mount rear worn, slight crack around joint requires welding
I'll clean the chassis over the winter when I take her off road, so the most important thing is the master cylinder leak which I'll get done ASAP.
As for the shocks, I'm not keen on GAZ / Nitrons or any other track biased aftermarket shocks as I like how comfortable the Chim is (had to sell my VX220 on GAZ Gold Pro 2's as it caused neck pain). So if anyone has some standard Bilsteins available, let me know!
Robert
She has also had a new clutch at some point, which is nice to know. A few little bits and pieces were done, but stuff that needs doing is:- Rear offside shock is clunking
- Clutch master cylinder leaking
- Gear box bung and plate missing
- Hood ears missing
- Exhaust mount rear worn, slight crack around joint requires welding
I'll clean the chassis over the winter when I take her off road, so the most important thing is the master cylinder leak which I'll get done ASAP.
As for the shocks, I'm not keen on GAZ / Nitrons or any other track biased aftermarket shocks as I like how comfortable the Chim is (had to sell my VX220 on GAZ Gold Pro 2's as it caused neck pain). So if anyone has some standard Bilsteins available, let me know!
Robert
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff