JFReturns' TVR Chimaera 4.0
Discussion
Hi all,
I've been lurking on the Chim sub forum for a while, soaking up the collective knowledge and reading up about what is my favourite (affordable) TVR. Now I've got one, so thought I would introduce myself and keep a record of ownership!
I've got a copy of Steve Heath's Chimaera / Griffith bible and will use it to learn the car. I've got very little mechanical knowledge or skills so I might have a few questions here and there. Other than, the only immediate plans are to sort the paint work and get some new rear tyres. Oh and drive it, and soon as the weather improves!
Robert.
P.S. I still can't believe I own this car; I keep going out the garage and staring at it!
I've been lurking on the Chim sub forum for a while, soaking up the collective knowledge and reading up about what is my favourite (affordable) TVR. Now I've got one, so thought I would introduce myself and keep a record of ownership!
I've got a copy of Steve Heath's Chimaera / Griffith bible and will use it to learn the car. I've got very little mechanical knowledge or skills so I might have a few questions here and there. Other than, the only immediate plans are to sort the paint work and get some new rear tyres. Oh and drive it, and soon as the weather improves!
Robert.
P.S. I still can't believe I own this car; I keep going out the garage and staring at it!
Thanks for the replies and warm welcome chaps 
She's a 98, nothing wrong with the paint (bloody good actually), just a few swirls marks and light scratches that I'll polish out. I'll also seal and wax the wheels and bodywork.
Just got back from a drive, I had to take her out couldn't wait any more! She felt quick, more so than any of my other cars with a brutal delivery that even the WRX STi couldn't match. And the sound
If anyone lives around Whitstable high street, I apologise for driving around in first gear 
Rubbishy interior shot as requested:
She's a 98, nothing wrong with the paint (bloody good actually), just a few swirls marks and light scratches that I'll polish out. I'll also seal and wax the wheels and bodywork.
Just got back from a drive, I had to take her out couldn't wait any more! She felt quick, more so than any of my other cars with a brutal delivery that even the WRX STi couldn't match. And the sound
If anyone lives around Whitstable high street, I apologise for driving around in first gear Rubbishy interior shot as requested:
Weather still cold and rubbish so not had a drive since Saturday. To keep the battery charged and oil circulating I've been starting her up and gently revving for ten minutes or so until the fans kick in. Also checking the coolant, oil etc.
What I have noticed:
- There are some minor oil leaks, but the oil level on the dipstick hasn't moved
- There is also a coolant leak, with a small 2 inch puddle forming since my last drive
- She is grumpy when cold! Starts fine, idle hunts and car does not rev cleanly until warmed slightly (about two or three minutes)
I'm not too bothered by the oil leaks as they are minor, but the coolant leak is a bit more concerning. I've topped it up via the expansion tank and will check before and after every drive. I'll also get her up on the ramps and see if I can pin point the leak, but if anyone has any tips for a mechanical novice please let me know!
I think I have a serpentine engine, please someone correct me if I'm wrong:
She runs beautifully once warm, belts look tight, no knocks or anything of concern. However, there does seem to be an after market air filter (K&N by the looks of things). I'm not too keen on the idea of this, as the engine bay gets very hot so there may be some heatsoak? Does anyone else run one, or should I plug in the standard air feed (will check the filter is present first)?
Robert
What I have noticed:
- There are some minor oil leaks, but the oil level on the dipstick hasn't moved
- There is also a coolant leak, with a small 2 inch puddle forming since my last drive
- She is grumpy when cold! Starts fine, idle hunts and car does not rev cleanly until warmed slightly (about two or three minutes)
I'm not too bothered by the oil leaks as they are minor, but the coolant leak is a bit more concerning. I've topped it up via the expansion tank and will check before and after every drive. I'll also get her up on the ramps and see if I can pin point the leak, but if anyone has any tips for a mechanical novice please let me know!
I think I have a serpentine engine, please someone correct me if I'm wrong:
She runs beautifully once warm, belts look tight, no knocks or anything of concern. However, there does seem to be an after market air filter (K&N by the looks of things). I'm not too keen on the idea of this, as the engine bay gets very hot so there may be some heatsoak? Does anyone else run one, or should I plug in the standard air feed (will check the filter is present first)?
Robert
Mine's a bit grumpy on first startup too, fine after a minute or so. Coolant leak is obviously a must fix. Rad recore isn't too bad, £160-180. No need to pay any more.
Ditch the silly filter deffo or stick it in the nose on the end of the original pipe. It will be getting warm air in that position as you say.
Ditch the silly filter deffo or stick it in the nose on the end of the original pipe. It will be getting warm air in that position as you say.
They should definately draw cold air from the front of the radiator, not hot enginebay air like yours. Mine has a special long KN filter coming out of the left side of the nose in front of the radiator. All air travel parts in the engine bay should have heat reflectant stuff around them 
helps in the summer
helps in the summer
Just spoke to Carl, it seems for a reasonable (but not small) amount he will upgrade the immobiliser / alarm and provide two keys. This is something I would like to do, just not yet! Anyone know who could carry out a minor, fiddly repair like this?
The good news is I managed to start the car so the fob can't be terribly damaged. Ideally I would like to repair it for now, then use Carl's services early next year.
The good news is I managed to start the car so the fob can't be terribly damaged. Ideally I would like to repair it for now, then use Carl's services early next year.
Just to confirm that you have the serp(entine) engine, name comes from the auxiliary drive belt.
A couple of things to check re coolant leaks, in addition to the obvious hose clips/expansion cap:
Check that the coolant swirl tank (aluminium one top hose feeds into) is full (nut can be v.tight) - although this won't cause a leak in itself
Check no air locks
Check that the inlet connection on the base of the expansion tank isn't leaking, - the small diameter aluminium connector can also become blocked
Check the metal S shaped pipe that the bottom hose connects to - they are steel and corrode
If you do find that you have a leaky rad., consider silicone hoses at the same time if you replace/recore, and also consider replacing the S pipe with a stainless one. There are 2 types, you would need the serp one.
They can leak oil from the usual places, but worth checking that your sump plug is tight (std one is 29mm from memory).
A couple of things to check re coolant leaks, in addition to the obvious hose clips/expansion cap:
Check that the coolant swirl tank (aluminium one top hose feeds into) is full (nut can be v.tight) - although this won't cause a leak in itself
Check no air locks
Check that the inlet connection on the base of the expansion tank isn't leaking, - the small diameter aluminium connector can also become blocked
Check the metal S shaped pipe that the bottom hose connects to - they are steel and corrode
If you do find that you have a leaky rad., consider silicone hoses at the same time if you replace/recore, and also consider replacing the S pipe with a stainless one. There are 2 types, you would need the serp one.
They can leak oil from the usual places, but worth checking that your sump plug is tight (std one is 29mm from memory).
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