Connection / Plug for Range Rover Temp Sender

[Malcster]

Hi Guys,


Just wondering - for those that have completed the Range Rover Temp Sender mod, what sort of plug did you use to connect to the sender?

I was planning on making up a lead with a crimp kit:
Femal Spade --> 170-Ohn resistor --> something to attach to range rover sender

But I'm not sure what the neatest way to do that is?
It just seems to be a nub sticking out, not a proper spade connector etc:



Cheers in advance!

[Naybr]

I used an old-style automotive 'bullet' connector - or rather the female in-line socket for one.

[ChimpofDarkness]

As said above, a simple female bullet connector is perfect.

[chris1972]

How did you connect your resistor, did you solder it? Have you a picture of the lead you made up?

[Malcster]

Yeah, I've not made up the lead as yet, but will be crimping the bullet at one end, the female spade at the other, then soldering the 170Ohm resister in the middle.

Hopefully that way it's easy to put back to "standard" form.

[Prizam]

Does anyone have a pic of the Range Rover Temp Sender in the engine? I cant find mine and would love to do this modification. The temp gauge swinging around really annoys me!

[Malcster]

Ok, here's how I did it.
First I created a lead using a crimp tool, and soldering iron.
Spade - Wire - resistor - Wire



I went for a 160-Ohm resistor, as I've read suggestions of 150-Ohm and 170-Ohm in different places, so I decided to split the difference. At 60p a pop it's not gonna break the bank to replace it if its out a little.

Anyway, next some heat-shrink to neaten it up, and protect it:



Finally, I added a yellow inline crimp connector on the other end, squished it a little, and pushed it onto the range rover sender...



Then un-hooked the gauge connector from the cruddy TVR sender, and onto the spade connector of my adapter lead...



Finally I tucked the wire back down where it was before, under the dizzy... Job Done!
Hope that helps!

I'll report back how well it works after i give it a shot tomorrow.

[Malcster]

So, it looks like it's reading around 10degrees to high, so I'd say you should go with a 170ohm resistor.

I'll make the change later in the week.

[Malcster]

Malcster said:

So, it looks like it's reading around 10degrees to high, so I'd say you should go with a 170ohm resistor.

I'll make the change later in the week.

After a bit of trial and error, I think I have settled on an 180 Ohm metal-film resister (from Maplin).
This shows the fans switching on at around 85-87 degrees.

Easy peasy fix, and it really makes a difference seeing the gauge move gradually and fairly accurately, as opposed to the eratic readings of the standard setup.

[chris1972]

Excellent, thanks for that. Very useful!

[Andav469]

Malcster said:

After a bit of trial and error, I think I have settled on an 180 Ohm metal-film resister (from Maplin).
This shows the fans switching on at around 85-87 degrees.

Easy peasy fix, and it really makes a difference seeing the gauge move gradually and fairly accurately, as opposed to the eratic readings of the standard setup.

I did mine using a 170 Ohm resistor and got similar results, doesn't it warm up quick

[chris1972]

Andav469 said:

I did mine using a 170 Ohm resistor and got similar results, doesn't it warm up quick

Where did you get your 170Ω resistor from? I can't see any at Maplin on their web. Mind you their web site is awful, it won't search for anything. I was thinking of a variable resistor as a few have used those, but can't one of those on their web either.

[Andav469]

Chris, the Maplin Website is awful, they have them in stock, mine was 39p

[chris1972]

Thanks for that. I'll go in and ask them. All looks pretty straight forward, although I should be getting the Rovergauge software and lead pretty soon, so I may go the variable resistor route and set that way.

[Andav469]

If you get roverguage, there is no need for an unsightly variable resistor, you can trial and error until you have the correct one, with the previous work done on this mod, you have a close start already.
With a 170 Ohm resistor, my car sits at a guage reading of 82/85deg in normal driving with the fans kicking in at 90deg, whether its perfectly accurate or not I will be under no doubt that something is wrong if the reading climbs too high

[jeffwithaj]

I have done some measurements with various resistors. The use of the range rover temperature sensor with the added resistor give a accurate reading at one temperature only. Below that temperature the gauge reads over the actual and above that temperature the gauge reads low.From my measurements
130 ohms is accurate at 87.5 degrees C
150 ohms is accurate at 84 degrees C
160 ohms is accurate at 80 degrees C
170 ohms is accurate at 77 degrees
It is not surprising the engine appears to warm up quickly with the mod. since the gauge give a higher reading than actual. More worrying is the gauge under reads at temperatures above the "accurate reading"
I have chosen a resistor that gives me a vertical needle on the gauge at "normal" running. Hence I can quickly see any changes from norm.
Hope this may help those considering the modification.

[chris1972]

Andav469 said:

If you get roverguage, there is no need for an unsightly variable resistor, you can trial and error until you have the correct one, with the previous work done on this mod, you have a close start already.
With a 170 Ohm resistor, my car sits at a guage reading of 82/85deg in normal driving with the fans kicking in at 90deg, whether its perfectly accurate or not I will be under no doubt that something is wrong if the reading climbs too high

Regardless, it has to be more accurate than the current sender!

[chris1972]

jeffwithaj said:

I have done some measurements with various resistors. The use of the range rover temperature sensor with the added resistor give a accurate reading at one temperature only. Below that temperature the gauge reads over the actual and above that temperature the gauge reads low.From my measurements
130 ohms is accurate at 87.5 degrees C
150 ohms is accurate at 84 degrees C
160 ohms is accurate at 80 degrees C
170 ohms is accurate at 77 degrees
It is not surprising the engine appears to warm up quickly with the mod. since the gauge give a higher reading than actual. More worrying is the gauge under reads at temperatures above the "accurate reading"
I have chosen a resistor that gives me a vertical needle on the gauge at "normal" running. Hence I can quickly see any changes from norm.
Hope this may help those considering the modification.

Does this happen with all senders or just the mod?

[jeffwithaj]

chris1972 said:

jeffwithaj said:

I have done some measurements with various resistors. The use of the range rover temperature sensor with the added resistor give a accurate reading at one temperature only. Below that temperature the gauge reads over the actual and above that temperature the gauge reads low.From my measurements
130 ohms is accurate at 87.5 degrees C
150 ohms is accurate at 84 degrees C
160 ohms is accurate at 80 degrees C
170 ohms is accurate at 77 degrees
It is not surprising the engine appears to warm up quickly with the mod. since the gauge give a higher reading than actual. More worrying is the gauge under reads at temperatures above the "accurate reading"
I have chosen a resistor that gives me a vertical needle on the gauge at "normal" running. Hence I can quickly see any changes from norm.
Hope this may help those considering the modification.

Does this happen with all senders or just the mod?

The sensor has to match the gauge. The resistor is a crude fiddle to get the range rover sensor to roughly give a meaningful Chimaera gauge reading. Do not know if it makes any difference but my Chimaera is a 2000 450

[Smudger33uk]

Had a google for the switch and there appears to be many variants. What one do I need and where to buy?
Cheers.