ignition module how to tell if its a lucas part ?
Discussion
hi all
I fitted a new lucas ignition module 3 months ago and last week it started playing up and now not working at all
when I ordered the part I asked for a lucas original not a made in china look alike
now how do you tell if your ign module is lucas or not ? my new module doesn't have anything on it to let you know
but my supplier has said it is a lucas part
the old original module "still working" does have made in the uk on it so I guess that's a lucas
anyone bought a new lucas module lately does it have anything written on it
cheers keith
I fitted a new lucas ignition module 3 months ago and last week it started playing up and now not working at all
when I ordered the part I asked for a lucas original not a made in china look alike
now how do you tell if your ign module is lucas or not ? my new module doesn't have anything on it to let you know
but my supplier has said it is a lucas part
the old original module "still working" does have made in the uk on it so I guess that's a lucas
anyone bought a new lucas module lately does it have anything written on it
cheers keith
tter sold you a chinky part
blitzracing said:
No shortage of the genuine units on ebay- its the same as the Austin metro DAB118
Not genuine Mark 
they look like Lucas rationalized/cheap alternative replacements 
hence why they don't look like the original generic by the looks of it even down to the white paint marking
keep looking new old stock genuine does surface especially on Ebay [url]
Edited by Sardonicus on Sunday 2nd June 10:12
EGB , The fault I had was a misfire at 3,500 to 4,000 rpm so in my case I changed the leads cap and rotor arm
The car then didn't even fire up at all ? refitted old coil "no spark" refitted old ign module and she fired up straight away
I thought I was doing a good maintenance job on replacing old parts that were not faulty so lesson learnt leave alone if working ok sometimes
The car then didn't even fire up at all ? refitted old coil "no spark" refitted old ign module and she fired up straight away
I thought I was doing a good maintenance job on replacing old parts that were not faulty so lesson learnt leave alone if working ok sometimes
The factory fitted genuine Lucas units are very robust and long lasting providing people are not daft enough driving round with HT leads hanging off etc 
that's what kills them 
don't fit CI ignition, Intermotor, Motorquip, Unipart etc all crap modules IMO these have the Lucas embossed logo on the corner if this is what they actually serve you (worth asking) http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Electric...
that's what kills them don't fit CI ignition, Intermotor, Motorquip, Unipart etc all crap modules IMO these have the Lucas embossed logo on the corner if this is what they actually serve you (worth asking) http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Electric...Edited by Sardonicus on Sunday 2nd June 11:14
EGB said:
Keith and Ian and Mark et al.
Question, what are the symptoms of a failed/failing ignition module. Is there a test. Can the tvr RV8 run without one. The original Rover 3.5 V8 did not have one.
Thanks...............Eddie.
I had the problem of misfire and cutting out occasionally when idling - especially in traffic. Replaced coil and ignition amp (mine was in lucas packaging with heat sink compound) and it solved all my running problems. It was an intermittent fault and this was the last part o had not looked at - wish i had done it first now after looking for bad earths etc.Question, what are the symptoms of a failed/failing ignition module. Is there a test. Can the tvr RV8 run without one. The original Rover 3.5 V8 did not have one.
Thanks...............Eddie.
As a matter of interest the standard amp makes a good front end switch for the Veillman ignition amp that
Maplin do for £10. The advantage here is that you remove the heavy switching current from the stock amp, that uses a hot distributor as a heatsink! This makes the stock amp run a lot cooler, and the new amp can be mounted somewhere cooler in the engine bay. You need to buy a small box to go with the kit- but its all less than £20. Ive run these amps on various engines over the years and not blow one up yet. It does not mess around with the spark voltage or duration, unlike the RPI offering for £100 more!
http://www.maplin.co.uk/ignition-amplifier-kit-316...
Maplin do for £10. The advantage here is that you remove the heavy switching current from the stock amp, that uses a hot distributor as a heatsink! This makes the stock amp run a lot cooler, and the new amp can be mounted somewhere cooler in the engine bay. You need to buy a small box to go with the kit- but its all less than £20. Ive run these amps on various engines over the years and not blow one up yet. It does not mess around with the spark voltage or duration, unlike the RPI offering for £100 more!
http://www.maplin.co.uk/ignition-amplifier-kit-316...
blitzracing said:
As a matter of interest the standard amp makes a good front end switch for the Veillman ignition amp that
Maplin do for £10. The advantage here is that you remove the heavy switching current from the stock amp, that uses a hot distributor as a heatsink! This makes the stock amp run a lot cooler, and the new amp can be mounted somewhere cooler in the engine bay. You need to buy a small box to go with the kit- but its all less than £20. Ive run these amps on various engines over the years and not blow one up yet. It does not mess around with the spark voltage or duration, unlike the RPI offering for £100 more!
http://www.maplin.co.uk/ignition-amplifier-kit-316...
Thanks Mark. Does the Maplin Amp fit between the dizzy and the standard Lucas amp? If so it has connections. Does it mean a longer re-routed king lead perhaps routed from behind the fans in a cool place? Maplin do for £10. The advantage here is that you remove the heavy switching current from the stock amp, that uses a hot distributor as a heatsink! This makes the stock amp run a lot cooler, and the new amp can be mounted somewhere cooler in the engine bay. You need to buy a small box to go with the kit- but its all less than £20. Ive run these amps on various engines over the years and not blow one up yet. It does not mess around with the spark voltage or duration, unlike the RPI offering for £100 more!
http://www.maplin.co.uk/ignition-amplifier-kit-316...
Perhaps a daft question. Will the TVR RV8 run with the king lead connected directly between the dizzy and the coil without the need of an amp?
Edited by EGB on Monday 3rd June 23:09
Mark
Can you tell me a bit more about the connections for the Velleman kit? How did you wire it up? I am trying to marry up what Velleman are saying with the wiring diagram for my V8S.
FYI
It looks like Maplin no longer stock the kit, however I have found them a the following location.
http://www.esr.co.uk/velleman/
Can you tell me a bit more about the connections for the Velleman kit? How did you wire it up? I am trying to marry up what Velleman are saying with the wiring diagram for my V8S.
FYI
It looks like Maplin no longer stock the kit, however I have found them a the following location.
http://www.esr.co.uk/velleman/
Sardonicus said:
blitzracing said:
No shortage of the genuine units on ebay- its the same as the Austin metro DAB118
Not genuine Mark they look like Lucas rationalized/cheap alternative replacements hence why they don't look like the original generic by the looks of it even down to the white paint marking
keep looking new old stock genuine does surface especially on Ebay [url]Edited by Sardonicus on Sunday 2nd June 10:12
EGB said:
Which of the two modules pictured is a genuine Lucas? Thanks.
Neither are kosher Lucas Found these 
look and you will find, snap em up they don't come up often http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-FORD-ESCORT-FIESTA-O...Edited by Sardonicus on Thursday 17th April 09:46
Oldred_V8S said:
Mark
Can you tell me a bit more about the connections for the Velleman kit? How did you wire it up? I am trying to marry up what Velleman are saying with the wiring diagram for my V8S.
FYI
It looks like Maplin no longer stock the kit, however I have found them a the following location.
http://www.esr.co.uk/velleman/
Simply think of the Lucas amp as a set of points that switch the negative side of the coil to ground. You need to disconnect the negative wire from the coil and connect it to the "points" wire on the Velleman, and then attach the coil trigger wire from the Velleman to the -ve coil connection. In reality you are using a transistor switch (lucas) to switch another transistor switch (velleman). I thought it would be a good idea to reduce the switching current in the Lucas unit so it would run cooler, and last for longer (hopefully). I ran this set up for about a year without any issues, but have now switched to using an Amethyst / Lucas in a simular manner, thats seems fine so far.Can you tell me a bit more about the connections for the Velleman kit? How did you wire it up? I am trying to marry up what Velleman are saying with the wiring diagram for my V8S.
FYI
It looks like Maplin no longer stock the kit, however I have found them a the following location.
http://www.esr.co.uk/velleman/
blitzracing said:
Simply think of the Lucas amp as a set of points that switch the negative side of the coil to ground. You need to disconnect the negative wire from the coil and connect it to the "points" wire on the Velleman, and then attach the coil trigger wire from the Velleman to the -ve coil connection. In reality you are using a transistor switch (lucas) to switch another transistor switch (velleman). I thought it would be a good idea to reduce the switching current in the Lucas unit so it would run cooler, and last for longer (hopefully). I ran this set up for about a year without any issues, but have now switched to using an Amethyst / Lucas in a simular manner, thats seems fine so far.
Many thanks Mark. I have just been reading your write-up on the Amethyst; it makes for interesting reading.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff