Cool heater in the cold weather

[Harrytsg]

For info, and assuming my dash gauge is wrong and the ECU temp sender is correct, I have my 2 stage fan control set up to compensate for the 10 degree difference (Ecu temp higher, read via Ecumate), this also corresponds with a infra red temp gauge.

[QBee]

Goaty Bill said:

I have attached a large flower pot to the top of mine

Showing my age here. My first thought was "flobbalob". Probably means I need some "weed".
If you are over 58 you will instantly know what I mean.....

Going outside to run the engine while holding the top hose. Told my wife what I was going to do, but she thought I said I wanted to hold the top of her hose until it got warm, which got me a sharp slap and a suggestion of sex and travel.

[QBee]

Harrytsg said:

For info, and assuming my dash gauge is wrong and the ECU temp sender is correct, I have my 2 stage fan control set up to compensate for the 10 degree difference (Ecu temp higher, read via Ecumate), this also corresponds with a infra red temp gauge.

I actually think my temp gauge is quite accurate. It matched Rovergauge pretty well. Also, my otter switch was tarka'd earlier this summer, so I replaced it with a new one, and I noticed that, per the temp gauge, my fans were cutting in and out exactly at the temp it said on the otter switch box.

Mine does what the recent poster said, re 90/80/60 degrees. Only difference this time of year to his observations is that my car requires me to wear thermals on a long motorway drive......not a style that I wish to dwell on.

[MethylatedSpirit]

ChimpOnGas said:

Definitely an airlock, no matter how much you've convinced yourself it isn't.

Tbh, it could be an air lock or a dodgy stat... AIRLOCK THERMOSTAT


Bleed the air out the system (that costs nothing) and then move on to checking the thermostat if that doesn't solve your problems.


These cars can drive you crazy

[Goaty Bill]

For QBee's benefit



Well, you get the idea.
The funnel screws neatly into the swirlpot, and the flower pot adds considerable capacity.

[QBee]

Ok guys.
Assume my temp gauge is accurate, as the fans do cut in and out at the correct temperature.

I have just started the car and waited with my hand on the top hose. And waited. And waited. Got bored, revved the engine and finally got the gauge to 50 degrees. Hand onto top hose, universally warm along its entire length, which suggests it is full of warm water.

At what temperature should the thermostat open?
Where is it located?

[Harrytsg]

74 or 82 degrees depending on stat fitted.

For info, scroll down to 2 different value stats.

http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-parts-search.a...

Edited by Harrytsg on Sunday 24th November 12:54

[QBee]

Ok, I will change the stat. Where us it?

[A900ss]

The fact that my top hose warms up gradually rather than a gush as the thermostat opens suggests to me thermostat or does an air lock also show those characteristics?

[Harrytsg]

QBee said:

Ok, I will change the stat. Where us it?

I'm not clever enough to draw arrows, so, if you follow the top hose from the swirl pot, it connects to the thermostat housing which is just behind (to the left of) the distributor.

Edited by Harrytsg on Sunday 24th November 13:05

[QBee]

Thanks Andy, so its about as inaccessible as anything else TVR? Had a feeling it was there, was just hoping it wasn't!

[BIGMIKE1]

Its actually easier to get to than it looks, I think I removed the dizzy cap which gave a bit more room and a UJ on an extension then your pretty much on the bolts. Probably an hours job including bleeding.

[QBee]

[quote]Probably an hours job including bleeding.
[/quote]
Knuckles or radiator?

[Chuffmeister]

Remove belt, remove lower bolt alternator to move it out of the way. Stat housing should now be accessible. As opposed to refiling the whole system, try refilling the manifold from the heater rail hose on the off-side and bleed through the closed-off hose on the near side. Just an idea...

Edited by Chuffmeister on Sunday 24th November 15:45

[TV8]

QBee said:

Only difference this time of year to his observations is that my car requires me to wear thermals on a long motorway drive......not a style that I wish to dwell on.

Hi Anthony,
assuming the heater is properly burped, you may need to stop the cold coming into the foot well.

The bottom left corner of the door seal can be a problem.
There are holes behind the carpet in the inner sill. These indirectly vent through to around the indicator mesh. Lots of cold air can come through these..
Behind the air vent by the wiper control (on the early cars at least) can be a source of lots of cold air. I could never seal it so wedged a micro fibre towel in there to contain the breeze on long winter journeys.

[QBee]

TV8 said:

Hi Anthony,
assuming the heater is properly burped, you may need to stop the cold coming into the foot well.

The bottom left corner of the door seal can be a problem.
There are holes behind the carpet in the inner sill. These indirectly vent through to around the indicator mesh. Lots of cold air can come through these..
Behind the air vent by the wiper control (on the early cars at least) can be a source of lots of cold air. I could never seal it so wedged a micro fibre towel in there to contain the breeze on long winter journeys.

I have always assumed that "they all do that sir" and that too hot in summer, chilled nuts in winter was standard.
Clearly from this thread:
A) my engine temps are standard
B) my temperature gauge is ok
C) i need to burp

[TV8]

Burping is still a good thing according to http://www.worldburpingfederation.com/

Burping and temperatures are all about making you hot. If you need thermals, then something is also making you cold, so I would check for wind as well!

[QBee]

TV8 said:

Burping is still a good thing according to http://www.worldburpingfederation.com/

Burping and temperatures are all about making you hot. If you need thermals, then something is also making you cold, so I would check for wind as well!

No problem locating the wind issue - dog is looking very guilty!!

[ChimpOnGas]

TV8 said:

Hi Anthony,
assuming the heater is properly burped, you may need to stop the cold coming into the foot well.

The bottom left corner of the door seal can be a problem.
There are holes behind the carpet in the inner sill. These indirectly vent through to around the indicator mesh. Lots of cold air can come through these..
Behind the air vent by the wiper control (on the early cars at least) can be a source of lots of cold air. I could never seal it so wedged a micro fibre towel in there to contain the breeze on long winter journeys.

When the system is bled up properly & you've taped up the holes behind the carpet covering the inner sill (as above).

Finish the job by blocking the holes under the front indicators, freezing cold air gets rammed through these holes on a winters day when driving at speed.

This chilly air then gets channeled up the inner wings & is forced into the cabin, there seems to be a number of points of ingress, in my car it's around the radio panel in the dash.

Block up those holes under the indicators and do all the other stuff too, & you'll be roasty toasty this winter

[A900ss]

I'm replacing my thermostat this weekend and can somebody give me a heads up on how long to do and what involved?

I've just read a piece that suggested removing the dizzy and removing the serp belt. Is all that really necessary?

I was just hoping to remove dizzy cap and that would be enough room (or am I deluding myself?)

Thanks.