Serp Oil Pressure sender
Discussion
I need to change mine as it is acting up. I am assuming if I change it over fast enough, I will avoid a pool of oil on the floor? I also assume that I will need to earth the sender above somehow as I think the TVR one is earthed through the block?
ETA I've ordered the eBay one mentioned to give it a go. Mine is losing pressure on throttle when cruising which promptly appears as soon as I back off.
ETA I've ordered the eBay one mentioned to give it a go. Mine is losing pressure on throttle when cruising which promptly appears as soon as I back off.
Edited by Trevor450 on Friday 29th November 15:44
With the original cheapo Ebay sender I get the following:
Cold start idle 60psi
Hot Idle 45psi
Hot over 2500rpm 55-60psi
I don't let my oil level get below half way (normally topped right up) and have changed the oil every three months. I'm using the Mobil 10w60 Extended Life at the moment, but will switch next year to a more zinc concentrated oil.
I'd be interesting in seeing what the new Ebay sender offers though.
As you did such a thorough job of the last one Dave, I think the job of testing the latest sender is definitely for you… the only way of keeping the results consistent!!!
Cold start idle 60psi
Hot Idle 45psi
Hot over 2500rpm 55-60psi
I don't let my oil level get below half way (normally topped right up) and have changed the oil every three months. I'm using the Mobil 10w60 Extended Life at the moment, but will switch next year to a more zinc concentrated oil.
I'd be interesting in seeing what the new Ebay sender offers though.
As you did such a thorough job of the last one Dave, I think the job of testing the latest sender is definitely for you… the only way of keeping the results consistent!!!
I've also ordered the slightly more expensive alternative from Ebay as per Dave's (Chimpongas)suggestion although car up on jacks for a few weeks for winter work so won't get proper comparison until spring (apart from idle cold & warm whilst stationary) Intend to try 0-80 psi sender first.
Richard 858 said:
I've also ordered the slightly more expensive alternative from Ebay as per Dave's (Chimpongas)suggestion although car up on jacks for a few weeks for winter work so won't get proper comparison until spring (apart from idle cold & warm whilst stationary) Intend to try 0-80 psi sender first.
great news, let us know how it performs.Richard 858 said:
I've also ordered the slightly more expensive alternative from Ebay as per Dave's (Chimpongas)suggestion although car up on jacks for a few weeks for winter work so won't get proper comparison until spring (apart from idle cold & warm whilst stationary) Intend to try 0-80 psi sender first.
great news, let us know how it performs.ChimpOnGas said:
Edited by ChimpOnGas on Friday 29th November 14:01
As far as fitting goes it's straight forward, just needs earthing. It is however approx 50% longer than the original so not much room between terminals & cross brace, but it does fit. As explained before my car is on jacks for fettling so readings are stationary in a partly heated garage. Engine is a N/A 450 decatted but otherwise standard, running on Millers CSS 20/60 oil.
Cold Idle: 65 psi
at Water Temp 60 degrees - Idle: 55 psi & @2500 rpm: 70 psi
at Water Temp 80 degrees - Idle: 45 psi & @2500 rpm: 65 psi
I'll keep this one in & see how it does when back on the road (with SC) in the spring.
Hope this helps.
Edited by Richard 858 on Wednesday 11th December 14:02
Chuffmeister said:
Hmmm… those readings are quite different to the original sender then
On the same basis my original readings were 30-35 psi lower ! As I believe my engine to be healthy (15,000 miles on full rebuild & 275 hp at flywheel) I would surmise these new readings to be more accurate, particularly on fairly fresh 20w60. I think it will also be useful to show a range of pressure more central to the gauge rather than it always reading in the lowest third regardless. It will now be easier to tell on the gauge if I do get a distinct drop in pressure.Richard 858 said:
ChimpOnGas said:
Edited by ChimpOnGas on Friday 29th November 14:01
As far as fitting goes it's straight forward, just needs earthing. It is however approx 50% longer than the original so not much room between terminals & cross brace, but it does fit. As explained before my car is on jacks for fettling so readings are stationary in a partly heated garage. Engine is a N/A 450 decatted but otherwise standard, running on Millers CSS 20/60 oil.
Cold Idle: 65 psi
at Water Temp 60 degrees - Idle: 55 psi & @2500 rpm: 70 psi
at Water Temp 80 degrees - Idle: 45 psi & @2500 rpm: 65 psi
I'll keep this one in & see how it does when back on the road (with SC) in the spring.
Hope this helps.
Edited by Richard 858 on Wednesday 11th December 14:02
When I put mine in I'm going to put a T in and a machanical gauge and get a comparison hopefully they will read the same
Richard 858 said:
On the same basis my original readings were 30-35 psi lower ! As I believe my engine to be healthy (15,000 miles on full rebuild & 275 hp at flywheel) I would surmise these new readings to be more accurate, particularly on fairly fresh 20w60. I think it will also be useful to show a range of pressure more central to the gauge rather than it always reading in the lowest third regardless. It will now be easier to tell on the gauge if I do get a distinct drop in pressure.
If you know your car to be healthy, I guess you could get any sender within reason and just look for changes.Chuffmeister said:
If you know your car to be healthy, I guess you could get any sender within reason and just look for changes.
You're absolutely right, I really don't know why I bothered ! Oh yes, that's it, wanted to experiment & gladly act as a bit of a guinea pig for the benefit of others. Dunno why I'm bothering with any other improvements & mods, car runs ok as it is. I heard a nasty rumour the other day that the earth might not be flat ! Do you think anyone will ever volunteer to sail to the edge & see what happens !! Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff