What did you do in the garage yesterday?
Discussion
angus337 said:
Thanks guys,
Pull and twist technique worked worked eventually with more penetrating fluid.
Only three bolts to go. One above the engine mount on the near side is a real PITA. Hangover isn't helping either.
Take care if you've not done it before, a couple of the lower bolts jam against the pipes so you have to withdraw the manifold AS you loosen them. Best to leave the top outside bolts loosely supporting the manifold as you work on the others IIRC.Pull and twist technique worked worked eventually with more penetrating fluid.
Only three bolts to go. One above the engine mount on the near side is a real PITA. Hangover isn't helping either.
Slotting the lower flanges gets round this whether you use bolts or studs BTW.
You can do the O/S bolts without removing the starter motor, it's fiddly but imo quicker and easier than taking the starter motor off. You can do the back one from on top, put your left hand over the back of the manifold to hold a ring spanner onto the bolt with your fingers and move the spanner by going through the bigger hole in the middle of the manifold. I've got shovels for hands and could do it, once you've knocked it loose it's easy to do. The one on cylinder 6 I think I did from underneath by reaching around the back and over the top of the starter motor.
Right, safety first here guys - if you're under the car and working on the manifold fasteners above the starter, please disconnect the battery first. A dropped spanner can short some high amperages and/or energise the starter which might not be pretty if the car is in gear with the wheels able to drive...
Pupp said:
Right, safety first here guys - if you're under the car and working on the manifold fasteners above the starter, please disconnect the battery first. A dropped spanner can short some high amperages and/or energise the starter which might not be pretty if the car is in gear with the wheels able to drive...
This ^ and if your underneath and looking up when you get that arc I am sure I dont need to tell remind you of the permanent damage molten metal can do to an eyeball you have been warned All Bolts now removed!
A few other jobs to do then start fitting the new ones.
haven't decided yet whether to slot the bottom holes on the manifolds. hoping that the smaller headed bolts from ACT will make re-fitting a bit easier.
Definitely disconnect the battery before attempting this. lost count of the number of dropped spanners while doing this.
A few other jobs to do then start fitting the new ones.
haven't decided yet whether to slot the bottom holes on the manifolds. hoping that the smaller headed bolts from ACT will make re-fitting a bit easier.
Definitely disconnect the battery before attempting this. lost count of the number of dropped spanners while doing this.
Decat manifolds now fitted.
The ARP Bolts with the 10mm heads certainly make it easier. Didn't bother slotting the lower bolt holes but may be would if I ever have to do the job again.
Now just need to get the new exhaust on, replace the seat-belts, fix the handbrake, fix the rev counter,....................
The ARP Bolts with the 10mm heads certainly make it easier. Didn't bother slotting the lower bolt holes but may be would if I ever have to do the job again.
Now just need to get the new exhaust on, replace the seat-belts, fix the handbrake, fix the rev counter,....................
angus337 said:
Decat manifolds now fitted.
The ARP Bolts with the 10mm heads certainly make it easier. Didn't bother slotting the lower bolt holes but may be would if I ever have to do the job again.
Now just need to get the new exhaust on, replace the seat-belts, fix the handbrake, fix the rev counter,....................
Those ARP bolt heads are 3/8 A/F out of interest The ARP Bolts with the 10mm heads certainly make it easier. Didn't bother slotting the lower bolt holes but may be would if I ever have to do the job again.
Now just need to get the new exhaust on, replace the seat-belts, fix the handbrake, fix the rev counter,....................
Edited by Sardonicus on Sunday 20th April 19:37
Removed 'spare' coolant temp gauge sender from top of inlet manifold and replaced with new SPA one (straight swap); removed TVR gauge sender from front of manifold, then brass hex bar extension piece, and then steel adaptor. Identified adaptor/manifold thread as M19 x 1.5, established not going to be easy to find a hydraulic bung (judging by ebay and Google) so tapped centre hole of adaptor to M10 and sealed with stainless bung and crush washer. Reinstalled adaptor having saved about two ounces of surplus metal and got rid of offensive lump
Confused Alex in process!
Confused Alex in process!
Pupp said:
Removed 'spare' coolant temp gauge sender from top of inlet manifold and replaced with new SPA one (straight swap); removed TVR gauge sender from front of manifold, then brass hex bar extension piece, and then steel adaptor. Identified adaptor/manifold thread as M19 x 1.5, established not going to be easy to find a hydraulic bung (judging by ebay and Google) so tapped centre hole of adaptor to M10 and sealed with stainless bung and crush washer. Reinstalled adaptor having saved about two ounces of surplus metal and got rid of offensive lump
Confused Alex in process!
Is this what you were looking for ?Confused Alex in process!
Sorry it's a st pick
Striped it all out of a £50 inlet with injectors and steper motor
If you knead the bung it's yours
Edited by jojackson4 on Sunday 20th April 21:22
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