What did you do in the garage yesterday?

[OleVix]

Alexdaredevils said:

QBee said:

gacksen said:

OleVix said:

Changed Engine oil and filter, Gulf 10-60 racing

Edited by OleVix on Thursday 17th July 08:27

expect a noisy engine....

Mine is on Shell 10-60 Racing - sounds no different

+1 on that

Mine ran smoother, cooler and had better pressures when running on castrol 10-60

Me too, good pressure when very hot

[900T-R]

Same here, Castrol 10/60

[JWzed]

Me too

[gacksen]

hm thats strange and can´t validate that thinner oil makes more oil pressure. maybe my spa gauge tells me wrong who knows what is a must have is a high zddp in the oil. most oils with current spec´s don´t have that. of course you can use an additive. based on my experience with 20W60 engine runs perfectly smooth means less top end noise as with any other thinner oil.

Edited by gacksen on Friday 18th July 10:23

[Chuffmeister]

I've just put in Penrite HPR15. 20 litres for £110 iirc from Classic Oils. High Zinc content. I haven't ran on it yet as I'm in the process of putting the car back together, but ChimpOn Gas swears by it. That's good enough for me. Before that, I was using 10w60 Extended Life. Did the trick, but expensive at £40 for 5 litres.

[QBee]

gacksen said:

hm thats strange and can´t validate as thinner oil makes more oil pressure. maybe my spa gauge tells me wrong who knows what is a must have is a high zddp in the oil. most oils with current spec´s don´t have that. of course you can use an additive. based on my experience with 20W60 engine runs perfectly smooth.

I assume zddp is zinc?

I called Castrol before putting racing oil in my road/track Chim. Long chat with a friendly technical expert in his 40s/50s with a love of British sports cars. He said we should put the best modern oil we could in the cars, and that 10/60 racing gave us the best combination of cold start protection combined with track running protection by far for TVRs.

He said the only time you needed the protection afforded by extra zinc was when you had lost all the protection of the oil and were running the crank and pistons bare metal to bare metal. And even then it wouldn't last long before the engine broke. With the oils of 25-50 years ago that could be more critical. With fully synthetic oils today, so long as you had oil in the car you would never be in that position.

Us guys with TVRs always watch our pressure gauges and check the oil regularly. As long as the drive stays clean, I never remember to check the oil in my Audi.

Not arguing with you zinc devotees......just passing on what an oil technologist told me.

[900T-R]

Apart from this, the more 'exotic' spec oils that are bandied around as a (still) better match for the engine aren't stocked anywhere (at least not here) and special order items at the single Millers/Motul/Silkolene etc. distributor we have in The Netherlands.
I'd rather consistently run a good spec oil that my TVR whisperer fills the sump with as a matter of course and which I can get at my local motor factor before I go on a 1,200 mile trip than hunting for the 'perfect' spec and then have to top up with anything that happens to be available at that point...

[gacksen]

of course oil type is everbody´s own choice. let me say it like this. when you have the chance to do so try 20w60 e.g. from penrite.
does not cost much has a high zddp level in it. when i bought the car 2 years ago it was running 10W40 castrol semi. switched then
to 15w50 motul classic and now to penrite classic light 20w60. as i said it is just based on my experience after the oil change top end
noise even from cold start is reduced at a high percentage with the thicker oil. oil pressure when hot comming from a blast on the autobahn
rose about 5-7 psi as per spa gauge.

[QBee]

gacksen said:

of course oil type is everbody´s own choice. let me say it like this. when you have the chance to do so try 20w60 e.g. from penrite.
does not cost much has a high zddp level in it. when i bought the car 2 years ago it was running 10W40 castrol semi. switched then
to 15w50 motul classic and now to penrite classic light 20w60. as i said it is just based on my experience after the oil change top end
noise even from cold start is reduced at a high percentage with the thicker oil. oil pressure when hot comming from a blast on the autobahn
rose about 5-7 psi as per spa gauge.

Then that is good advice - the 60 end protects your engine when hot. Do you drive the car in the german winters gacksen?

[gacksen]

normally i dont drive it in the winter but it seems winter in general is not really existing anymore in the part of germany i live. can remember that i drove with open roof on christmas last ir the year before at 20c sunshine on the 24.12.
for any other occasions have a sump heater pad installed to get the oil on temp if needed.

[QBee]

gacksen said:

normally i dont drive it in the winter but it seems winter in general is not really existing anymore in the part of germany i live. can remember that i drove with open roof on christmas last ir the year before at 20c sunshine on the 24.12.
for any other occasions have a sump heater pad installed to get the oil on temp if needed.

Hence why you don't need to go as low as 10 on the oil - 20w60 would suit fine. As we don't get a lot of snow here I do drive my car all year around, so prefer the protection at low temperatures afforded by 10w60.

Both good oils, both the correct choice for the car concerned.

[Chuffmeister]

Exhaust back on, rear ARB and new drop links. All cables tied to the chassis. Just need to get a new exhaust clamp for the exhaust/ y-piece join. Hopefully ready to get wheels back on and then remove crank pulley. I wasn't sure that the new flexi joint was going to fit, but it's fits in okay. Close fit, but it goes.

New flexi


ARB and drop links

[phazed]

Looking good Chris.

if the drop links don't line up as good as you think, i assume you are using the Ford ones, get the bends on the ARB tightened up for a more vertical line.

[over_the_hill]

Actually this afternoon and on the drive

From this



To this

[phazed]

Completed head swap on the 4.6, car still goes very quick with just a small loss in power.

Moving the 5.5 in to the garage for its brain transplant, conversion to electric PS pump and a bit of frontal chassis titillation prior to Emerald installation, blended base and remapping

[PJ57]

phazed said:

Completed head swap on the 4.6, car still goes very quick with just a small loss in power.

Moving the 5.5 in to the garage for its brain transplant, conversion to electric PS pump and a bit of frontal chassis titillation prior to Emerald installation, blended base and remapping

You make it sound so easy Think it would take me a week to do what you've achieved in a couple of days
Do you have a build thread with your progress to follow??

[QBee]

Think I need some go faster stripes if I am going to keep up with a man with an emerald in his blended base. Where did I put that can of Dulux?

[gacksen]

QBee said:

Hence why you don't need to go as low as 10 on the oil - 20w60 would suit fine. As we don't get a lot of snow here I do drive my car all year around, so prefer the protection at low temperatures afforded by 10w60.

Both good oils, both the correct choice for the car concerned.

you are right once you drive it in the cold maybe go down a little bit lower. have used the oil pre heater in the past just once
but it works. now time to go back in the garage to finish wet sanding the datsun and giving the coolant system of the chim a flush
before driving to southern france and corse.

[TV8]

phazed said:

Completed head swap on the 4.6, car still goes very quick with just a small loss in power.

Moving the 5.5 in to the garage for its brain transplant, conversion to electric PS pump and a bit of frontal chassis titillation prior to Emerald installation, blended base and remapping

Going all in then Pete! Good work. Did you get a chance to take the pictures of the differences please?

[SILICONEKIDOBHP]

phazed said:

Completed head swap on the 4.6, car still goes very quick with just a small loss in power.

Moving the 5.5 in to the garage for its brain transplant, conversion to electric PS pump and a bit of frontal chassis titillation prior to Emerald installation, blended base and remapping

Is it a bolt on job for the electric power steering or serious modification ? do you have power steering ?What base are you removing ?


I think you have 380bhp in the back of your head