What did you do in the garage yesterday?
Discussion
900T-R said:
So how did it lose the cam bearing then - just a duff batch? What were the others like?
It was the end bearing.There were 2 types of bearings.
One, the later and more commonly used ones I believe that are fully spherical and the earlier ones that had a split in them.
Mine was the earlier.
Why it spun out is a mystery to me.
Edited to say "earlier" not "later"!
Edited by phazed on Thursday 13th November 08:41
phazed said:
Well, engine dropped a cam bearing for no good reason at Cadwell Park at 8K miles, reeeeally p1ssed off at that.
Returned engine to Rob who inspected all and declared that there was no damage and that it just needed a full set of bearings.
While it was stripped I asked him to fit a solid H404 cam and lifters.
So, engine sat in the garage and will slot in at the weekend,.....that's the plan.
Will it need re mapping and how does it change low rpm driving ? Will there be a delay in power until it hits higher RPM ?Returned engine to Rob who inspected all and declared that there was no damage and that it just needed a full set of bearings.
While it was stripped I asked him to fit a solid H404 cam and lifters.
So, engine sat in the garage and will slot in at the weekend,.....that's the plan.
No Worries Ged, all advice greatly appreciated.
I had assumed the gap was factory and ok to leave as is. The car sits at just below 80 degrees on the motorway even in the hot summer days, so thought all is ok. Touch wood, have no overheating issues with the old rad either, just the leak.
Is it not worth leaving the gap to allow some cooler air through to cool the engine bay if there are no overheating issues?
If not, what's the best way to seal the area?
Thanks
Phil
I had assumed the gap was factory and ok to leave as is. The car sits at just below 80 degrees on the motorway even in the hot summer days, so thought all is ok. Touch wood, have no overheating issues with the old rad either, just the leak.
Is it not worth leaving the gap to allow some cooler air through to cool the engine bay if there are no overheating issues?
If not, what's the best way to seal the area?
Thanks
Phil
J400GED said:
PJ57, I know you probably will anyway, but don't forget to seal round the radiator to stop air bleeding round it instead of through it. Apologies if it's teaching you to suck eggs, only trying to help.
Ged
Ged
[quote=PJ57]No Worries Ged, all advice greatly appreciated.
I had assumed the gap was factory and ok to leave as is. The car sits at just below 80 degrees on the motorway even in the hot summer days, so thought all is ok. Touch wood, have no overheating issues with the old rad either, just the leak.
Is it not worth leaving the gap to allow some cooler air through to cool the engine bay if there are no overheating issues?
If not, what's the best way to seal the area?
Thanks
Phil
It's more beneficial to have as much air going through the radiator cooling the coolant which will then re-circulate around the engine rather than air blowing around the radiator and then across the engine.
As for sealing round the radiator, you can get stick on foam and stick it around the edge of the radiator so that it seals the gap between the radiator and the body.
Similar to this
Ged
I had assumed the gap was factory and ok to leave as is. The car sits at just below 80 degrees on the motorway even in the hot summer days, so thought all is ok. Touch wood, have no overheating issues with the old rad either, just the leak.
Is it not worth leaving the gap to allow some cooler air through to cool the engine bay if there are no overheating issues?
If not, what's the best way to seal the area?
Thanks
Phil
It's more beneficial to have as much air going through the radiator cooling the coolant which will then re-circulate around the engine rather than air blowing around the radiator and then across the engine.
As for sealing round the radiator, you can get stick on foam and stick it around the edge of the radiator so that it seals the gap between the radiator and the body.
Similar to this
Ged
Awesome. Thanks Ged, will get me some of that 
Just about to tackle the Targa and door seals, so hopefully lose the minor leak the car has sprung now the rain's come in
Cheers for the advice
P
Just about to tackle the Targa and door seals, so hopefully lose the minor leak the car has sprung now the rain's come in
Cheers for the advice
P
J400GED]J57 said:
No Worries Ged, all advice greatly appreciated.
I had assumed the gap was factory and ok to leave as is. The car sits at just below 80 degrees on the motorway even in the hot summer days, so thought all is ok. Touch wood, have no overheating issues with the old rad either, just the leak.
Is it not worth leaving the gap to allow some cooler air through to cool the engine bay if there are no overheating issues?
If not, what's the best way to seal the area?
Thanks
Phil
It's more beneficial to have as much air going through the radiator cooling the coolant which will then re-circulate around the engine rather than air blowing around the radiator and then across the engine.
As for sealing round the radiator, you can get stick on foam and stick it around the edge of the radiator so that it seals the gap between the radiator and the body.
Similar to this
Ged
I had assumed the gap was factory and ok to leave as is. The car sits at just below 80 degrees on the motorway even in the hot summer days, so thought all is ok. Touch wood, have no overheating issues with the old rad either, just the leak.
Is it not worth leaving the gap to allow some cooler air through to cool the engine bay if there are no overheating issues?
If not, what's the best way to seal the area?
Thanks
Phil
It's more beneficial to have as much air going through the radiator cooling the coolant which will then re-circulate around the engine rather than air blowing around the radiator and then across the engine.
As for sealing round the radiator, you can get stick on foam and stick it around the edge of the radiator so that it seals the gap between the radiator and the body.
Similar to this
Ged
Alexdaredevils said:
Sardonicus said:
SILICONEKID345HP said:
Will it need re mapping and how does it change low rpm driving ? Will there be a delay in power until it hits higher RPM ?
Daz its still on the pallet 
how long is a piece of string? you know by now nothings an exact science 
Good luck with it Peter, surely the bearing span cos it picked up on the cam, that has to be an oil supply thing?
Good to see Rob is looking after you, he's definitely one of the few good guys in a sea of shysters
If it was an oil hole alignment or supply issue Dave it's taken 8k to do it and numerous track days, I reckon it just walked out of it housing the solid non split bearings from the states are my prefered especially when pushing the envelope, Peters block must move about some I reckon.
Sardonicus said:
If it was an oil hole alignment or supply issue Dave it's taken 8k to do it and numerous track days, I reckon it just walked out of it housing the solid non split bearings from the states are my prefered especially when pushing the envelope, Peters block must move about some I reckon.
You could be right mate, I doubt we'll ever know for sure 
Sometimes its just a case of "Ship Happens".
The important bit is the builder stands by his work, then sorts it.
Sardonicus said:
ChimpOnGas said:
You could be right mate, I doubt we'll ever know for sure
Sometimes its just a case of "Ship Happens".
The important bit is the builder stands by his work, then sorts it.
It all costs though Sometimes its just a case of "Ship Happens".
The important bit is the builder stands by his work, then sorts it.
Edited by Sardonicus on Thursday 13th November 19:58
Typically there is TOO MUCH oil supply to the cam bearings.......
Builders often try and offset the bearing holes to reduce the orifice size. I find that method too hit & miss whilst trying to press in the bearing, I personally prefer to drill smaller holes in the bearings and insert them in line with the block oil supply. I always stick with real Clevites from the US (even if you have to make up sets from other strange cars), as never sure about the quality of some bearings on offer....
Builders often try and offset the bearing holes to reduce the orifice size. I find that method too hit & miss whilst trying to press in the bearing, I personally prefer to drill smaller holes in the bearings and insert them in line with the block oil supply. I always stick with real Clevites from the US (even if you have to make up sets from other strange cars), as never sure about the quality of some bearings on offer....
had I have spoke to Spend sooner before fitting my Clevite C B's I could have used this tip 
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