What did you do in the garage yesterday?
Discussion
phazed said:
All the above is a labour of love!
Satisfying once it's done.
It certainly is, but I'll be pleased when it's all done. I didn't remove the top ball joint as it looked very difficult to do and it seemed ok. No excessive play. I'm going to replace all of the others as they're off anyway. Satisfying once it's done.
PS. I really miss driving the TVR!! I do like the Caterham, but I would rather have the TVR on the road!! Must get it finished ASAP!
Edited by zed4 on Thursday 18th December 10:45
For some strange reason I posted this under the engine thread, I'd only had one G &T!
Hopefully I'll have this lot fitted at the end of the weekend.
Varley Red Top gel battery mounted with bespoke padded bracket above fuel tank.
Isolator mounted beside it, (more for convenience than security).
Insulated live post for power in the engine bay.
Daz, the live post is for jump starting or any reason you might need power, (I carry a proper 12v compressor in the boot).
Hopefully I'll have this lot fitted at the end of the weekend.
Varley Red Top gel battery mounted with bespoke padded bracket above fuel tank.
Isolator mounted beside it, (more for convenience than security).
Insulated live post for power in the engine bay.
Daz, the live post is for jump starting or any reason you might need power, (I carry a proper 12v compressor in the boot).
Refitted my driver's side mirror having had it re-sprayed and got it all back in place first time - a 1 in 360 chance!
Decided to stop the passenger side one from wobbling......and managed to snap it off at the point where the casting attaches to the toadstool. Clearly already fractured, which was why it was wobbly.
Dismantled the whole thing, ordered a new casting from Racetech, then managed to glue the old one back together again using some washers and Evostick serious glue. A penny washer on the top side, an M16 washer on the bottom around the post. Reassembled it this evening, goes back on the car tomorrow. If I can get it back on tight without breaking it then job's a good 'un.
Decided to stop the passenger side one from wobbling......and managed to snap it off at the point where the casting attaches to the toadstool. Clearly already fractured, which was why it was wobbly.
Dismantled the whole thing, ordered a new casting from Racetech, then managed to glue the old one back together again using some washers and Evostick serious glue. A penny washer on the top side, an M16 washer on the bottom around the post. Reassembled it this evening, goes back on the car tomorrow. If I can get it back on tight without breaking it then job's a good 'un.
Nothing on the scale of what you chaps do, but got a new printer and tweaked the fresh air vent design so now fits together perfectly.
Printed a couple out and fitted ready to try out next year and see if they work better facing forwards or backwards.
If anyone wants to print their own or tweak this, feel free to make use of the file I made for it.
http://www.dazee.net/tempfiles/tvr_vent_adapter_-f...
Printed a couple out and fitted ready to try out next year and see if they work better facing forwards or backwards.
If anyone wants to print their own or tweak this, feel free to make use of the file I made for it.
http://www.dazee.net/tempfiles/tvr_vent_adapter_-f...
Those 3d printers sound like a great tool. Only problem is I imagine I would spend a week trying to achieve what you have done there, then give up and fabricate them out of metal. Still would like to give it a go one day. Is the idea to create a low pressure in the boot space to draw air through or the other way around? I imagine having them with the opening to the front would create a high pressure in the boot.
I took the idea from Clive on here who some time ago had a template for a scoop that covered the 3 holes. It faced forward I believe to draw air into the boot and there was a comment on if it would be better to face them the other way to draw air out.
It's not something I'll be able to check until the car is back on the road, and will be a quick job to do now, simply slacken the bolt and rotate it.
I bought a XYZ Printer with the dual print heads to do 2 different colour filaments in a single print. It's one of the cheapest printers out there and I love it! It is as close to plug and play as I've seen so far - my reprap printer was a nightmare.
Try tinkercad.com Free browser based CAD program, simple to use and will have you running in no time. Google had a similar tool called Sketch, but tinkercad is much more intuitive when starting as a novice like I am.
It's not something I'll be able to check until the car is back on the road, and will be a quick job to do now, simply slacken the bolt and rotate it.
I bought a XYZ Printer with the dual print heads to do 2 different colour filaments in a single print. It's one of the cheapest printers out there and I love it! It is as close to plug and play as I've seen so far - my reprap printer was a nightmare.
Try tinkercad.com Free browser based CAD program, simple to use and will have you running in no time. Google had a similar tool called Sketch, but tinkercad is much more intuitive when starting as a novice like I am.
QBee said:
Refitted my driver's side mirror having had it re-sprayed and got it all back in place first time - a 1 in 360 chance!
Decided to stop the passenger side one from wobbling......and managed to snap it off at the point where the casting attaches to the toadstool. Clearly already fractured, which was why it was wobbly.
Dismantled the whole thing, ordered a new casting from Racetech, then managed to glue the old one back together again using some washers and Evostick serious glue. A penny washer on the top side, an M16 washer on the bottom around the post. Reassembled it this evening, goes back on the car tomorrow. If I can get it back on tight without breaking it then job's a good 'un.
Good job Anthony, [honestly] it's a pig of an awkward job. Decided to stop the passenger side one from wobbling......and managed to snap it off at the point where the casting attaches to the toadstool. Clearly already fractured, which was why it was wobbly.
Dismantled the whole thing, ordered a new casting from Racetech, then managed to glue the old one back together again using some washers and Evostick serious glue. A penny washer on the top side, an M16 washer on the bottom around the post. Reassembled it this evening, goes back on the car tomorrow. If I can get it back on tight without breaking it then job's a good 'un.
Finished this a few days ago.
Removed the standard battery and box, purchased a bey Varley Red Top battery and dedicated bracket and fitted above the fuel tank.
I also fitted a battery cut out switch for convenience.
I took the opportunity while the carpets were up to fit some 15mm sound deadening material.
All went well but took a couple of days in all!
Removed the standard battery and box, purchased a bey Varley Red Top battery and dedicated bracket and fitted above the fuel tank.
I also fitted a battery cut out switch for convenience.
I took the opportunity while the carpets were up to fit some 15mm sound deadening material.
All went well but took a couple of days in all!
Spent a chilly hour upside down in the footwell changing the clutch master cylinder spring and seal cartridge after an OEM spring broke on Christmas Eve. Seal kits easy to find on Ebay (part 50691 matches Girling 0.7 inch cylinder - Hilman Imp- but there are loads of others); springs not so readily found but Associated Springs part C6000552750 drops right in. As usual, bore absolutely fine so no need to disturb the cylinder.
Pupp said:
Spent a chilly hour upside down in the footwell changing the clutch master cylinder spring and seal cartridge after an OEM spring broke on Christmas Eve. Seal kits easy to find on Ebay (part 50691 matches Girling 0.7 inch cylinder - Hilman Imp- but there are loads of others); springs not so readily found but Associated Springs part C6000552750 drops right in. As usual, bore absolutely fine so no need to disturb the cylinder.
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