What did you do in the garage yesterday?

What did you do in the garage yesterday?

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SILICONEKID345HP

14,997 posts

230 months

Saturday 21st March 2015
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Andav469 said:
I quite like the monochrome theme of your engine bay Daz
Thanks i don`t have time to improve it ,the manifolds could do with re painting .I would like to have the power steering casing part powder coted but can`t work it out how to remove .

I`m two busy with twins ,a large house which needs work and a garden which takes up one day a week .

J400GED

1,202 posts

236 months

Sunday 22nd March 2015
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JWzed said:
Got the body back on.bounce





|http://thumbsnap.com/rA7cd1r9[/url]

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I bet that kept your full attention!

Where did you run your fuel return line?

Any top tips for when putting the body on? It's a long way off yet but I am looking forward to that job on mine. biggrin

OleVix

1,438 posts

147 months

Sunday 22nd March 2015
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J400GED said:
I bet that kept your full attention!

Where did you run your fuel return line?

Any top tips for when putting the body on? It's a long way off yet but I am looking forward to that job on mine. biggrin
You will need an extra pair of hands holding the back end up a bit since it sags down and making the fit too tight
Also remember: rear upper wishbones, rearmost bolt, the nut has to go against the boot so that its possible to get off!

kris450

658 posts

193 months

Sunday 22nd March 2015
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J400GED said:
Any top tips for when putting the body on?
Don't forget to put the handbrake up vertical so it emerges back into the cabin. Otherwise the body goes back on, everything is lining up perfectly and you run round the garage self high 5'ing. Only to realise the thing is now trapped under the body and you need to re-lift to get it sorted...

Pretty obvious to tell how I found this out when I did mine banghead

macdeb

8,492 posts

254 months

Sunday 22nd March 2015
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Discopotatoes said:
macdeb said:
Thanks guys, glad you like it. Yes, it is by Speedy cables, [not very speedy though] anyway it's back in the car now so I'm happy.
Mac did you supply them an old guage or is this one they made from scratch?

Edited by Discopotatoes on Saturday 21st March 17:32
Hi Richard, I supplied a turbo boost gauge and a gauge to copy, They modified the supplied boost gauge.

OleVix

1,438 posts

147 months

Sunday 22nd March 2015
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SILICONEKID345HP said:
Andav469 said:
I quite like the monochrome theme of your engine bay Daz
Thanks i don`t have time to improve it ,the manifolds could do with re painting .I would like to have the power steering casing part powder coted but can`t work it out how to remove .

I`m two busy with twins ,a large house which needs work and a garden which takes up one day a week .
Like this Daz?


You dont need to powdercoat, but a beadblast, acid primer and black enamel paint makes nice. Its a bh to refurb and change seals. If you manage to split it open after heating, the treads will likely lunch themselves. They are alu on alu threads with loctite... stupid idea. I had to buy a 45x1,5mm thread tap (200 pounds+vat) to clean it up. Then theres the two plastic washers inside, one of which is designed in a way that eventually will destroy the seal since its slightly smaller. I made new ones:

Pink_Floyd

900 posts

220 months

Sunday 22nd March 2015
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OleVix said:
Its been bugging me... the way TVR designed the coolant temp sender
When I did my body off referb I did exactly this and what a difference it makes. Much better measure of the temp.

SILICONEKID345HP

14,997 posts

230 months

Sunday 22nd March 2015
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Pink_Floyd said:
When I did my body off referb I did exactly this and what a difference it makes. Much better measure of the temp.
What are you actually drilling ? Can`t you just under the bush and replace it with the correct one ?


Edited by SILICONEKID345HP on Sunday 22 March 20:02

JWzed

185 posts

124 months

Sunday 22nd March 2015
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J400GED said:
I bet that kept your full attention!

Where did you run your fuel return line?

Any top tips for when putting the body on? It's a long way off yet but I am looking forward to that job on mine. biggrin
1) Make sure you clean to bare metal the earthing points on the chassis and their corresponding brass bobbins glassed into the body.
2) Make sure you know where all the wiring is supposed to end up and that nothing will be left jammed against the top of the chassis.whistle
3) Make sure the heater pipes are clear as the body lowers and not jammed between the bulkhead and back of the rocker covers.
4) Don't forget to reconnect the earth point at the rear of the LH bank cylinder head before finally lowering on to the chassis.
5) Get some mates to give you a hand. Walk and talk them around the body and chassis and brief them as to what you are intending to achieve and potential issues.
6) When lowering the body keep it level in both planes to start with. First point of body to chassis contact is the handbrake followed by the gearstick. Make sure they go into their respective gaiters cleanly. (I used a smear of silicon grease to help matters)!
Next connect the LH side engine earth. Continue lowering, but tilt the body forward slightly as you approach the front ARB brackets to get the body past. Once past them lower to mounting point and put in the front two mounting bolts. Now lower the back end, line the body up and put in the boot space mounting bolts. Job done stand fast the cabin mounting bolts.

Re your query about the fuel return line. I put new cunifer piping back in along the top of the off side chassis rail as per the way it came out.Hope this helps. Best of luck doing yours, it's definately worth the hard work (and expense). thumbup

J400GED

1,202 posts

236 months

Monday 23rd March 2015
quotequote all
JWzed said:
1) Make sure you clean to bare metal the earthing points on the chassis and their corresponding brass bobbins glassed into the body.
2) Make sure you know where all the wiring is supposed to end up and that nothing will be left jammed against the top of the chassis.whistle
3) Make sure the heater pipes are clear as the body lowers and not jammed between the bulkhead and back of the rocker covers.
4) Don't forget to reconnect the earth point at the rear of the LH bank cylinder head before finally lowering on to the chassis.
5) Get some mates to give you a hand. Walk and talk them around the body and chassis and brief them as to what you are intending to achieve and potential issues.
6) When lowering the body keep it level in both planes to start with. First point of body to chassis contact is the handbrake followed by the gearstick. Make sure they go into their respective gaiters cleanly. (I used a smear of silicon grease to help matters)!
Next connect the LH side engine earth. Continue lowering, but tilt the body forward slightly as you approach the front ARB brackets to get the body past. Once past them lower to mounting point and put in the front two mounting bolts. Now lower the back end, line the body up and put in the boot space mounting bolts. Job done stand fast the cabin mounting bolts.

Re your query about the fuel return line. I put new cunifer piping back in along the top of the off side chassis rail as per the way it came out.Hope this helps. Best of luck doing yours, it's definately worth the hard work (and expense). thumbup
Cheers John. thumbup

ChilliWhizz

11,990 posts

160 months

Monday 23rd March 2015
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SILICONEKID345HP said:
Thanks i don`t have time to improve it,,,,,

I`m two busy with twins ,a large house which needs work, a garden which takes up one day a week, and of course the 60 hours a week I spend posting on here
EFA smile

dazee

314 posts

123 months

Wednesday 25th March 2015
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dazee said:
dazee said:
Cleaned the garage out....


....for now.
Feeling a little sick....they're talking about 5K for its "MOT" and oil leak fix.

Anyone wanna buy a Hayabusa?
Cleaned the garage out to prepare for the return this weekend. Bill down to 4K after I supplied some parts, should have been lower except they also saw the issue with the alternator and had that replaced too.

So that's MOT, clutch, alternator, crank seals, bushes done and full alignment setup - says it was so out of alignment it will seem like a new car.

Of course a bit more room in the garage now the bike has gone frown

Forecast for good weather this weekend so looking forward to a nice drive from the heart of Tokyo back out to the boonies of Chiba. smile

NZ fan

310 posts

133 months

Wednesday 25th March 2015
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dazee said:
Cleaned the garage out to prepare for the return this weekend. Bill down to 4K after I supplied some parts, should have been lower except they also saw the issue with the alternator and had that replaced too.

So that's MOT, clutch, alternator, crank seals, bushes done and full alignment setup - says it was so out of alignment it will seem like a new car.

Of course a bit more room in the garage now the bike has gone frown

Forecast for good weather this weekend so looking forward to a nice drive from the heart of Tokyo back out to the boonies of Chiba. smile
Think you made the right choice hayabusa,s are plentiful and your car is looking awesome.

dazee

314 posts

123 months

Wednesday 25th March 2015
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Was a painful choice. First time in 16 years without a Hayabusa, and this was a first year low mileage copper/silver. Had 2 reps from bike shops bidding for it in my garage and 2 more calling just after it sold.

The miles will get racked up on it this year.....just brought a hybrid too to offset the fuel costs blah

QBee

20,904 posts

143 months

Friday 27th March 2015
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Advance warning.......

Tomorrow i am going to:

1. Try to work out why my heater fan stopped working between Tuesday and Thursday. Not funny in yesterday's snow storm.
2. Try to tighten my exhaust manifold bolts with my poor old arthritic hands (plus spanner) - new gaskets were fitted three weeks/800 miles ago, and I can hear that "gasket" noise when the engine is hot.
3. Try to fit some different seats in my Chim, in the hope that bracing myself with my legs on track days will become a thing of the past (like nostalgia and rickets).

For you highly qualified spannercrats, with your two-post lifts and engineering degrees, this might seem like chicken feed, but for me, out in the wind and rain on the driveway, it's a challenge, will probably take most of the day, and will most likely be totally unsuccessful. I am at that time in a man's life where any time I have wriggled myself, flat on my back, under the car to put the nuts back onto the seat bolts, I find:

A. I've left the bloody washer and nut on the passenger seat or
B. I've got the wrong socket on the spanner or
C. I get an urgent message from the boss that she needs something getting from the shops half an hour ago or
B. I get an urgent message from my bladder that i needed to be somewhere indoors approximately 30 seconds ago

mk1fan

10,507 posts

224 months

Friday 27th March 2015
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At least you still have enough feeling to tell taht you needed the toilet 30-seconds ago. wink

jojackson4

3,026 posts

136 months

Friday 27th March 2015
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Finished the JE alternator bracket with rose joints and no banana bracket





And then sorted 8 leads that I had made a bks of (thanks to the help given on here)
Now it's time to wip it's backside

QBee

20,904 posts

143 months

Friday 27th March 2015
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So it's not a harsh stereotype then?
A Yorkshireman is never far from his wip it's

jojackson4

3,026 posts

136 months

Friday 27th March 2015
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And cap Qbee laugh

J400GED

1,202 posts

236 months

Saturday 28th March 2015
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QBee said:
So it's not a harsh stereotype then?
A Yorkshireman is never far from his wip it's
rofl